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Pokeshop: For a long time no such word was said in the Walla house
It was, quite simply, a meal that caresses your ego - relatively healthy, relatively cool and allows you to continue the day without complaining about the lack of sleeping cells.
This is not corruption, this is arrogance
Tags
Foucault
Pokey
salmon
tuna
Sushi
Yaniv Granot
Sunday, 04 July 2021, 06:00 Updated: 13:16
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David Chang, easily one of the ten most important foodies in the world, does not eat at Foucault restaurants.
"I can not do it," he declared in his podcast a long time ago, "I can not do it because I look at these places, and there are pre-cut fish, waiting to be collected with a spoon into bowls. This is not the way I want to eat raw fish." .
For all the columns of "Eaters are going"
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as usual at Chang, the monologue continued, twisted and became more and more complex, partly due to the fact that some of his professional friends run focaccia restaurants themselves, and also because some of his restaurants at the time served focaccia dishes themselves, in one variation or another.
"Before I got myself in trouble," he clarified, "two of my restaurants put focaccia on the menu. I almost lost myself in knowing when I heard about it, but then I realized it both happened because they had Hawaiian staff. You don't have to be from Hawaii to make the course. "It's, but you have to understand what it's about and what the story is about, not say you saw something on YouTube and you want to make it now."
My biggest fantasy (of food, though I do not limit myself on this subject) is to do a Tel Aviv street food tour with Chang.
At this stage of our lives, and to prevent a rupture in the relationship, it is likely that it will skip the supply of urban pouka.
That does not mean you should do the same.
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A happy mistake.
Pokeshop (Photo: Sapir Kusa)
Every ingredient here is critical, of course, but the most important, in my opinion, is the collection of sauces that should connect everything
Of all the culinary trends that have hit us over the years, I admit that I gave the POKE stores the least chance when they started popping up around. I mean, I saw a falafel that turns into a waffle and a waffle that turns into a fish, but at least there was a gimmick. A buffet based on nice fish, in this heat of Tel Aviv, did not seem maintainable to me. Years after this scholarly prediction, I continue to eat there regularly, completely satisfied with what I did wrong.
The Pokeshop chain (three branches, plus one new one in Bnei Brak) and chef Judith Tzarfati have been there from the beginning, and have survived the ups and downs that are all of our attention deficit disorder. The idea is simple - a self-assembled bowl or a choice of the built-in offer, based on carbohydrates (white or whole rice, quinoa or rice noodles) or green leaves, continued protein (salmon and tuna as they are or in marinade, or tofu) and vegetables and a bastard touch such as fried onions And crispy, black sesame or roasted peanuts.
Every ingredient here is critical, of course, but the most important, in my opinion, is the collection of sauces that should connect everything, and turn a bowl that anyone can make at home (seemingly), into something with a more professional and invested feel.
Here, for example, there is srircha wasabi, basil mayonnaise, maple balsamic, mango chili, and also a more delicate Asian tahini-ginger-maple or ponzo.
In short, the options and formulas create a rather disturbing Excel spreadsheet in the head, so we struggled, debated, and finally ordered as usual one of everything.
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Not corruption, arrogance.
Pokeshop (Photo: Sapir Kusa)
It was, quite simply, a lunch that caresses your ego - relatively healthy, relatively cool and allows you to continue the day without complaining about the lack of sleeping cells in the Walla house
We will start at the base, and slowly move in the wilder directions of the order: the salmon bowl (46 shekels) embraced white rice, lots of vegetables filtered on a crunch filter and a single but generous scoop of tender avocado. A basic but sophisticated move allows you to choose whether you want the sauce already mixed in, or waiting for a self-dosing on the outside, so I had to be smart of course - ponzo on the inside, mango-chili on the outside.
It was, quite simply, a lunch that caresses your ego - relatively healthy, relatively cool and allows you to continue the day without complaining about the lack of sleeping compartments in the Walla house. The ingredients were fresh, the fork pulled a bite from here and a bite from there, melon and sprouts, salmon and corn, avocado and seaweed. Not corruption, arrogance.
These were the impressions also about other bowls circulating in the office. The version of the red tuna (46 shekels), with about the same vegetables and sauces that drew a little spicy, was also excellent, very fresh in its sensations and balances itself excellently on a rope that stretches high above a "lunch salad".
The vegetarian taster, which was based on tofu (NIS 39) and very few other toppings, was pleasantly surprised by the result, as was a partner who decided to go completely crazy and give up protein altogether, pair rice and vegetables with sauce, and hope for the best.
The bowls the last two have received do not do it for me personally, but here they are fascinated by both the quantities and the flavors, and have managed to do much more than that - silence the built-in review a bit, an integral part of the profession.
Apparently, one of the two even said thank you at the end.
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When the body suddenly becomes a cheerleader.
Pokeshop (Photo: Sapir Kusa)
13,919 miles away, "Ahi Assassins" in Honolulu took the Pharm To Table principle to the extreme, rebranding it as Boat To Table. Their Instagram page behaves accordingly, with a fifty-pity distribution of exciting fishing scenes and equally exciting focaccia plates. That's not the story here, but it's okay.
Chang, a total volcano of words and emotions, does not approach Foucault restaurants in New York and avoids them even when he visits the west coast of the United States, a rich, varied and appallingly culinary area. A relatively solid gamble holds that the Tel Aviv offering of this dish would not have convinced him to break statements. Reports of developing a proper substitute for the appallingly popular tuna meat are likely to elicit from him no less tumultuous reactions.
But maybe it's all a matter of coordinating expectations.
If you want Hawaii, drive to Hawaii.
If you fancy a great lunch that won't knock you down on the keyboard, or a brisk dinner with a slightly more conscientious character and a body that suddenly becomes your cheerleader, go for Pokeshop now, and drive to Hawaii later.
This does not contradict.
Oh, and say David sent you, it can 't hurt.
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