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All of Tel Aviv has been looking for this burger. Now it finally has a place
Legendary patty, a mysterious mystery, a cruel smile and economic business: a detective affair comes to a delicious end
Tags
Lovely
hamburger
Patties
Fish
sea food
Yaniv Granot
Wednesday, 14 July 2021, 06:00 Updated: 06:39
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Assaf Gabay took out a chain of dishes from the kitchen of a lovely restaurant that made me and Alon Mesika say wow almost simultaneously.
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no sporty blue-and-white way to describe the parade, just saying it was a sequence of submissions that baseball pitches can leverage into a contract that arranges the kids and grandchildren.
There was fresh fish tartare, very crispy polenta cubes, Moroccan pasta (with powdered sugar on top of course), and also a sizzling pan of reddish fish patties.
Alon took a picture, I ate, and when Gabay finally sat down in front of me, I naturally decided to annoy him with a question about a hamburger.
The burger.
There is enough light for everyone
We were sure that Tel Aviv did not need another hamburger.
We made a huge mistake
To the full article
Poker face that works less.
Gabay in the kitchen (Photo: Alon Mesika)
Shayne's burger did not fly on its own even when it became a hit.
He did, however, disappear by surprise from the menu
"Years I've been looking for a successful fish burger," I wrote something like six months earlier about a delivery that met me on a dark-corona street with a gabay and a takeaway bag, "years I only get it when the passport loads another signature. Something told me it's going to change ".
Spoiler: That's changed. Sheine's Fish Burger, a big restaurant hit and an even bigger delivery hit, was not too clever then - "We cut seafood, but did almost nothing with it except shape it into a burger shape, put it on the grill, added cheddar and aioli - and a bun" , Was explained to me in the same delivery outside the door - and did not fly over itself even when it clearly became Sheine's biggest hit. He did, but, surprisingly disappeared from the menu, a mysterious mystery that spawned the same cross-examination on my part.
Gabay then kept Passon but failed miserably, with a poker face that would have emptied his pockets at every average table.
The subtext, however, was clear - he and his wife Natalie are fully aware of the patty pop waves, but do not want to turn Sheine into a hamburger restaurant.
In the future, a separate stand may be built for him, perhaps a place of his own.
That was my interpretation, but it did not require much analysis and information processing.
This week everything - the laughing eyes, the mystery and mystery, the chopped fish and the bun - finally connects to the hamburger again.
Meat, cheese, sauce.
Sheine's Fish Burger (Photo: Alon Mesika)
Sheine's new lunch business menu has combined all the dilemmas into a few crushing answers.
Or in other words: dishes you won't find here in the evening, led by Fish Burger.
The deal is simple but quite rare already in this city - first at the main price, from 12:00 to 15:00.
In the first part you will have a bruschetta with matias, for example, or the same polenta, tomato salad with brinza or ceviche.
In two fried fish fillets with rata potatoes and tartar sauce, the same patties (with tehini and challah probably), seafood spaghetti in Eli Olio sauce and fish stock and also the patty - seafood chopped with a knife, melted cheddar cheese, tartar sauce and Caesar lettuce, Pickled shallots and pickled lemon.
"coincidence".
Gabay and fishing in the kitchen (Photo: Alon Mesika)
"I sat with my head in my hands next to boxes of goods for NIS 10,000 that I did not know what I was supposed to do with it, and a month later I got shouted and cursed."
This afternoon opening closes a circle that has begun - remember it still happened? - Deep inside the corona closures, and continued with the missing ghost guards of recent months. Gabay waited patiently while customers called and asked "when can we come to Lunch?", While even the evening shifts were on the verge of sub-human chaos.
"We went through crazy weeks here," he said.
I dwell on the second half of the sentence, which summarizes Gabay's worldview. "We're just working fresh, no matter what, and I knew it would get me in trouble. When I write white palmida tartare on the menu, I will not have white palmida tartare on the menu every day, and suddenly they tell you 'Assaf, ten days you have no red tuna.' And I have a dish, Bestseller, red tuna sashimi,There is no table that does not invite her.
I was told: 'Assaf bro, reset, take squid, shrimp, frozen prawns. No. And there is frozen that is of good quality, and not even far from the prices, but I do not like to eat frozen. About me. About myself I say. "Frozen fried on the beach, I eat it myself, but it's not the same. If there is no shrimp in the sea, there will be no shrimp here on the plate."
"We deserve it too."
Natalie and Assaf:
View this post on Instagram
A post shared by Asaf Gabay (@chefasafgabay)
The 35-year-old Gabay's culinary journey began under the hands and eyes of Eyal Lavi in Rokach 73, continued in Provence and Frankfurt, in Jerusalem with Assaf Granit and in Tel Aviv with Rafi Cohen, and has for the time being settled in the challenging architectural corner of Sheine in Nahalat Binyamin in Tel Aviv.
This journey stretches parallel to his relationship with Natalie - 17 years, for now, yes? - which began naturally in the horribly romantic location of the Air Force Museum in the courtyards, and continued naturally no less to the city's restaurant trenches.
"I did not know I would open a restaurant that was just fish and seafood, but by chance, everywhere I went I was put in that position," he recalled.
This position still sees him six days a week, on "shifts" that someone else would have already come to the Labor Court to complain about their length. no he.
"I was here in Corona alone, from nine in the morning until midnight, answering the phone, preparing the food and calling the courier, answering the phone, preparing the food and calling the courier. Natalie said to me, 'Assaf, come home, I feel sorry for you.' The only customer who wants to order delivery? I will also miss it? '
"It's not the money. You're here for them right now, and there's no one else. It's me."
Did you think to close?
"No. I did not have a moment this year that I said I was going to close. For a split second. I was upset, depressed, that's clear. But I'm optimistic. I said 'no, it will pass, everything will pass.'"
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