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Hanna Fubuki: Premium Sushi at a Gas Station


You go to the gas stations to refuel, to buy something fast or to visit a bathroom that always seems like a crime. What he never went to was to eat sushi, until the food truck Hanna Fubuki parked in one.

In a territory like Alhaurín de la Torre (Málaga) where sales rule the secondary roads, a caravan of Japanese food parked in front of some pumps is a coup d'état.

Hanna Fubuki's, however, has managed to become a landscape, and her nigiris quite naturally share more or less accidental drivers and tourists with perotas soups, crumbs and mechá meat muffins.

At first glance it does not seem the best place to taste a tuna belly tartare - we are not in the California of gastronomic critic Jonathan Gold, with his


food trucks

- but it is to bring the nose closer and the curiosity to grow. it cuts and rolls inside: there is José Fernández, more from Malaga than the ajoblanco, handling the knife with Japanese dexterity.

Meeting Hanna Fubuki is always unexpected.

"There are even those who are scared because they have made a reservation at a restaurant that they did not know was at a gas station," says the cook.

It amuses them, because that surprise effect ends up working in their favor: “They end up telling me that once they have started eating, they have forgotten where they were”.

That of taste has come to cancel the rest of the senses here.

The most glamorous place in the world?

No. Good sushi?


Okay, a gas station.

But what do you eat here?

While the figures of the spouts continue to turn behind you, you will see the insistent makis and uramakis pass by with all their crunchy and truffle flavors.

However, it does not hurt to fall into them when the bream is wild and the intentions are good.

The tuna belly, foie and Pedro Ximénez reduction (eight euros) is already a classic: a juicy caramel even for those who say they don't eat sushi.

The same thing happens with the spicy tuna tartare (10 euros) served in a bowl over steamed rice with chives, wakame, sesame, masago roe and kimchi mayonnaise;

a dish that, after listening to its description, is not missing from any of the tables.

Umami at close range.

After the classics, Hanna Fubuki gives you another polite slap: the one from the off-menu and her suggestions of the day that are always a hit.

Their tiradito de hurta de Conil (12 euros) -which can be sea bass or tuna- stretches your palate with its balanced acidity, the shrimp nigiris from Fuengirola with their heads in tempura (seven euros) are a pleasing game of textures and the tuna tartare with its sea urchin that welcomes you with open arms for eight euros are fresh as a Basque summer.

Here everything is watered with Japanese Kirin beer and some reference to white and rosé, which does not shine too much but that yes, is served by glass.

Don't expect plastic cups or paper plates - it will be a gastroneta, but we've already seen that appearances can be deceiving.

José Fernández shows two of his nigiris.


What does all this sound like to me?

By reviewing his concise menu, you can guess in which other inn this chef, who was baptized at 16 in more traditional fires, previously parked.

Dishes like their


covered with spicy foam for only three euros or their nigiris with sirloin or foie for four call the restaurant Óleo that he passed through previously, by Rui Junior and Sergio del Río;

that has come to surpass the attractiveness of the contemporary art center in which it is located.

However, every tire has stepped on other roads before - let them tell Michel Bras's coulant or Nobu's black cod - and that does not make them less suitable for rolling.

Rui, a sushiman as a pro, was in fact associated with this restaurant while filming for one of the first and almost only

food truck


that were organized in Andalusia.

Afterwards, Hanna Fubuki put the brakes on: "With our raw material it was impossible to compete with the price of a hamburger and a Coca Cola at five euros."

He did it in the town where Fernández was born and where the authorities did allow him to park.

It's not your usual cheesy tenderloin sandwich.


Is a gas station a difficult place?

"The most difficult square is always going to be the street as long as the municipalities do not give us the permits to be in it," he answers as emphatically as he dispatches pieces of sushi, more than 1,000 every day he opens.

For him it is not that

food trucks are

no longer in fashion, "it is that it is a


that has not even had the opportunity to pass through Spain".

Is it worth paying € 30 per head to eat in front of some pumps?

Who goes, repeat.

Those who have put the exact coordinates in their GPS and those who have stopped to refuel (out of thirst) and have come to eat a portion of potatoes to that orange caravan that is parked there and have found a




José Fernández makes a kitchen more urban that for many can become a mirage.

Pleasant within your means.


Of course, Hanna Fubuki is not a stop for hypersensitive.

Little will they be able to abstract from the purr of the road, from that improvised dining room on a piece of artificial grass that has nothing oriental about it.

The cast was created for them, which is not lacking here either.

However, there is something in that lack of an imposted Japanese restaurant ritual that convinces and that amuses you and that ends up making you forget that you are in a parking lot of a gas station in Alhaurín de la Torre that has nothing like a Richard Ford novel.

Hanna Fubuki.

Avenida de Málaga, 28, ES Shell Alhaurín de la Torre (Málaga).

Tel. 655 083 832. Map.

Source: elparis

All life articles on 2021-07-30

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