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The prophecy to Aharoni, the geniuses of Israel and the slander: Aviv Moshe has already gone through the great pressure

The food should be well photographed and the customers already know very well what is on the plate, but one of our prominent chefs is no longer excited about anything

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• Aviv Moshe

Nir Yahav

Monday, 09 August 2021, 06:00 Updated: 06:48

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Opening of Aviv Moshe's Quattro Restaurant (Photo: Ido Shaham, Editing: Yotam Wax)

The first thing that caught our eye at "MAKOTO", Chef Aviv Moshe's new restaurant, is the design.

A long picture of a bustling city stretches along the back wall and accompanies with its lights the beautiful and spacious bar in the center of the restaurant.

Above the bar and below the lighting hangs a huge chain and from it dangle sub-chains towards the bar.

You are intrigued.

The neon city seen from the picture is in stark contrast to the relaxed and relaxing atmosphere that prevails in the place.

To the delicious Instagram page of Walla!

Makoto

Food

(21 Arba'a Street in Tel Aviv, the place that once housed the chef's late Italian "Quattro") is a large, beautiful, unobtrusive restaurant, and most of all invites you to come in and enjoy it.

It is impossible not to see with your own eyes the much thought invested in every corner.

It felt to us at times like a trendy New York restaurant.

The lights were dimmed to the desired extent, the music was good and not oppressive, and for the first time in a long time we were allowed to talk and even hear each other.

It turns out that an age is coming when this matter has meaning.

On weekends things may look and sound a little noisier, but at least on our visit there at the end of a weekday we had a great experience in the decibel aspect.

There is sushi, and of course foie gras

All the details about Aviv Moshe's new place

To the full article

"This time it's much more refined."

Makoto (Photo: Nir Yahav)

"Restaurants are not a profitable business. I'm mostly losing, but I'm crazy about it. It's a bacterium and I'm addicted to it."

The restaurant has several areas, including private rooms, a large terrace, calmer and noisier corners, and also the same central bar, with dozens of seats and a frontal sushi stand.

The restaurateur Itzik Hamel, Moshe's longtime business partner, takes us on a tour and tells us like a proud father on every corner, chair and picture. "Restaurants are not a profitable business. I mostly lose, but I'm crazy about it. It's a bacterium and I'm addicted to it," he says with a smile.

These feelings also permeate the menu, where there is a distinct emphasis on good ingredients, freshness and presentation of course. We tasted pizza-tuna (crispy tortilla, tuna tartare, concoza tomatoes, young leaves, halapinio, spicy mayonnaise), for example, which is considered the most popular dish in the restaurant, and rightly so, but also Tanaki Denver (nice and lightly roasted chunks of beef, satay vinaigrette, shiitake mushrooms Bonito sauce, garlic crispy, honey flowers) with deep meat flavors and an Asian shell that combined excellently between sweet and umami.

What more?

Sumac vinaigrette (seafood vinaigrette, seaweed "cracker", pickled lemon, puri stuffed with avocado) danced between cuisines from here and there, maguro carpaccio (nice chunks of tuna, sesame oil, soy, amerna cream, twin miso, miso sesame, Black sesame seeds, baby basil leaves and mustard sorbet) that paid homage to the excellent fish but made sure, veal almonds and also a flagship dish in the form of lobster in tempura (blue crab biscuit, tempura shrimp, blue fondue fondue, gnocchi and rice lace) that came from the depths to provide us with some marine drama.

"Local cuisine that clashes with Asian cuisine."

Tuna pizza in Makoto (Photo: Nir Yahav)

"The cooks in Israel are geniuses. If there was culinary tourism to Israel like there is medical tourism, we would be an empire."

"Makoto was actually born in Corona," Moshe told Walla! Food, "We thought of what to do and felt like doing something new here. The Asian side I had in a lot of restaurants and menus, but he did not have such a stage. Makoto is a chef's kitchen with Asian nuances without using too much fish sauce or too sharp flavors. This time it's much refined More and we tried to make the flavors suitable for everyone. "

But this is not a really Asian restaurant

"No, it's not Asian, it's a fusion. It's a local cuisine that clashes with Asian cuisine. We serve here for example fish carpaccio with blush vinaigrette. It's not Asian but it has such nuances. It is possible. To say that 70% of the menu is dominated by Asian motifs, in other dishes, such as ribs, Jerusalem artichoke puree, the flavors are more intense.

"It kind of reminds me of a cooking plan, because if you have to judge food, you can judge all types of kitchens. Same in cooking. You can cook variety, but you will always have a signature in any kitchen you do not. For better or worse, of course. It will be possible. Understand immediately who the chef behind this dish is. "

How would you describe the Israeli palate?

"First of all, the cooks in Israel are geniuses. If there was culinary tourism to Israel like there is medical tourism, we would be an empire. Israelis travel the world, taste food, they have become connoisseurs and they understand raw materials."

"On the other side there are people who understand."

Aviv Moshe (Photo: Assaf Carla)

"Even Operation 'The Guardian of the Walls' was less stressful than the Corona because we knew there was a beginning and there was an end. Uncertainty is one of the hardest things in life."

Do you really feel the difference in the attitude of Israelis to food between the beginning of your career and today?

"Obviously. Sharp and smooth. Today it is clear that fat must first be photographed beautifully. Secondly, it is important for Israelis that the raw materials are fresh. Customers recognize flavors. Everyone knows what ingredients are in the dish. It makes my job much more difficult and challenging but it is fun for Allah Because on the other side there are people who understand “

well, it is impossible without talking about the corona. Is it still stressing you out?

"I went through the great pressure. It exists and it will come and I am more prepared for it today than in the past. I am worried financially, but I am mostly worried about the health aspect. There is a message here that is coming to us. It's a boomerang that gets back to you in a second.

"In the end, the corona is a pool that eventually everyone will swim in. It is found and it will not go away. At the beginning of the corona I told Yossi Sheetrit and Aharoni that the world would change after that. They told me 'nonsense, it will pass', but I insisted.

" The difference.

When we left the corona, there were fireworks, joy and explosions.

Then came the calm.

This feeling is felt.

Even Operation The Guardian of the Walls was less stressed than the Corona because we knew there was a beginning and there was an end.

Uncertainty is one of the hardest things there is in life "

When will we see you judge in what cooking reality?

" I do a lot of TV but in my own way.

To be a judge?

What can I say to the contestants, that it is not to my taste?

how can I?

What I like about 'Chef Games' is that there are teams there.

The part of judging and telling someone it's not tasty I like less "

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