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Sun Young: This is the most sought after story in town right now, and rightly so
It takes a lot of effort and a lot of thought to replace the dusty street with wow statements, and yet someone here has succeeded
Tags
Asian food
Sushi
Gyoza
Yaniv Granot
Tuesday, 10 August 2021, 06:00 Updated: 06:47
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There are a lot of (good) things that can be said about "Sun Young", and unlike the Internet custom, we'll say them in a moment, but if you need a spoiler and bottom line, take it now - whoever is in charge of the glass ceiling covering the bar area should get Raise, or cocktail. Preferably a raise through which he can purchase a cocktail, if he so desires.
The new Asian restaurant is located in the basement of the INK Hotel (14 Brenner Street in Tel Aviv), a move that forces its visitors to overcome the traffic hell that is these days the entire white city subdivision, and walk in exhausted and a little dusty. It could be a bastard and planned trick, because the contrast leaves you speechless, and hungry.
Inside, a hotel awaits, and at the end of the stairs, restaurant tables and bar stools await, but we are here to talk about the most photographed typewriter in town. Or more precisely - huge typewriter keys that hang dramatically on the top of the main wall, and immediately entice you to write a story, or story.
Someone (most likely the designer Yaron Tal) was looking for Grand Entrance here.
Someone found her.
Unlike so many similar pretensions in the past, this time it is both justified, both relatively original and also makes a real wow.
Aviv Moshe speaks
The prophecy to Aharoni, the geniuses from Israel and the slander of course
To the full article
Raise, or cocktail.
Sun Young's Glass Ceiling (Photo: Eitan Waves)
These are probably the most comfortable bar stools in the country.
The competition is not tough, but the medal is legitimate
"Sun Young" (shall we take the matter out of the system with the name? Come on. There was no one who heard I was there who did not grin a little, and wondered what the insistence on opening a restaurant that from its first moment should compete with the SEO of one of the most common two-wheeled brands in Israel) welcomes you. As mentioned, and seats you nicely, for what they are surely the most comfortable bar stools in the country.
The competition is not tough, but the medal is legitimate.
It continues from there to meticulous lighting management - dark where the darkness serves it and well lit where light is needed (say, in beautiful, focused table lamps that help peek at the menu) - to high tables that can now be filmed reality-dating, and a tight general atmosphere of "soon there may be a party here" "And maybe not, so stay tuned."
That's a lot of words I stole from a home and design channel, so let's talk about food.
Want another spoiler?
He aligned with the spirit of the text, and even occasionally went out of line, in a good section.
A little away, a little from here.
Sun Young (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
The "small" portion includes ceviche, sashimi, crispy rice cubes that carry tartare, and also what is called "squares" here, but can be equally known as "the dish that every table will order, and rightly so"
So what do you eat here? Sun Young's menu divides itself into three, according to the relative size of the dishes, but not only.
The small part (which is not really small) includes ceviche entias, for example, sashimi, crispy rice cubes that carry a kind of tartare, and also what is called here "squares", but can be equally called "the dish that every table will order, and rightly so" - tuna tartare Red, avocado and some chili and herbs on a small but fun rectangle of crispy rice. Let's put it this way - this is, clearly, the most legitimate use I have seen for this apple cracker, including tempting desserts from the United States.
The middle wing is wider, with hits like soft-crispy chicken gyoza, veal tataki, great names, a few salads and crab anilots - a kind of stuffed gnocchi, soft but chewy, buttery and seay at the same time.
There are also four more "serious" mains, such as salmon in miso, Sichuan chicken, lamb chops and sirloin on the bone, as well as a separate column for sushi, with eight rolls (save some deliberation and go for the "lemon twist"), tuna tacos, nigiri and sashimi, A proper dessert plot and a blessed preoccupation with cocktails (which actually needs a bit of reinforcement, literally).
Soft, crunchy, tempting.
Sun Young's fleece
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"I played at home with things, challah left over from Saturday and Friday's fish turned into a tartare bruschetta that got yuzu"
"When I go to eat at a restaurant I do not look for first and main. It's a bit boring. Instead I look for sitting at the bar and eating 4-5 small dishes and tasting, not main that will kill you later in the night," Chef Elad Finish explained the process that led to building the menu. "I see a couple at the bar and want them to taste a few things and fly on it. People stay here until late, and it's stunning to me - fun food that allows you to experiment, and a hysterical atmosphere."
Finish, who recently completed a long term in Haim Cohen's "Jaffa Tel Aviv", happily jumped headlong into this culinary world. "I came from the most unrelated place, the most Mediterranean and Israel, but I learned during the Corona period to look out, about different cuisines and different worlds. I read, I cooked at home, I tried, a lot of Google and a lot of TV and a lot of books, and I realized ".
The result is, as his definition is quite accurate, a connection between the two worlds ("because I can not escape from the Mediterranean"), and a menu that has been refined and tightened up to its current version.
"I played at home with things, challah left over from Saturday and Friday's fish turned into a tartar bruschetta that Yuzu got, and so on," he recalled as he prepared the ground for future changes. And my cooks also love this mess and the action and the fire. "
Preoccupation, action and fire.
Sun Young Lemon Dessert (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
Sun Young, the younger sister of FU Sushi, KISU and other family members, speaks a fluent hotelier and tries very hard to show it.
This is a particularly desirable move in a city that has not yet fully realized the great potential of taste and user experience that is the epitome of hotel restaurants, and makes perfect sense when looking around, at the street and the dust and the whole urban environment, then stepping inside the lobby.
This switch brought down quite a few similar attempts in the past, who contented themselves with design and initial entry, and forgot about the food.
Finish and Sun Young are far from that mistake, and a few other little beauties will make this discussion really ridiculous, but even so it is an impressive and tasty opening.
And the glass ceiling?
Still need something that will remind you where you are right now, and will make you pause for a moment, and smile.
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