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Pizza Levantina: We came because of the pizza, we settled because of the sambusak
Most food legends would stop at this point to rest a bit.
Most food legends are not Erez Komrovsky
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Erez Komrovsky
pizza
Sambusk
Yaniv Granot
Sunday, 15 August 2021, 06:00 Updated: 07:56
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The busy food news section that aired this morning on the channel includes four pop-ups, at least two culinary festivals and a double-digit number of time-honored food events - here a French-Arab evening yeast bar, where a tribute to a mythological restaurant and in the middle you can find changing chefs, special menus and everything That can be linked to the "International Day" on duty.
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Everything is temporary, everything is temporary, everything is pop-up. Most of them stand and are afraid to jump back into the water. You can understand them. There are jellyfish and no lifeguard. But not Erez Komrovsky. In this slightly cumbersome image he is not just the jumper. He's breaking the waves.
The Optimist Guide to the Galaxy
Erez Komrovsky breaks the closure
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Think outside the box.
Levantina Pizza (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
Everyone is marching in one direction, and Komrovsky is doing a Power Walk against the movement
What started at the height of the epidemic, well, as a pop-up of deliveries on the purity of bloody-chic under the professional wings of "Cube Kitchen", stabilized shortly after that at the top of Tel Aviv's motorcycle boxes, including hits from Tabitha, Pacquiao and Masbaha Lima.
Ten months passed, an outstanding hamburger and schnitzel joined, the Khachapuria came and went (pop-up anyway, not everything aligns with the theory) and "Pizza Levantina" was born.
Born and Hit The Ground Running, as the Gentiles say.
A ghost kitchen with only two-wheeled entry permits has become a real place, new and physical and happy, at the north end of Dizengoff Street.
You thought there were enough excellent pizzerias and excellent pizzas in Tel Aviv, right?
You did not think enough outside the box.
They all march in one direction, closing and converging and weighing and shrinking, and Komrovsky does a Power Walk against the movement.
Do you have a doubt about who to follow on the way to the destination?
A little Turkey, a little Georgia, a lot of Israel
Erez Komrovsky's "Return to Life Pastries"
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Bubbly patience.
Levantina's Sambusak
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"Our new Tarshiha pizza. It's going to start coming out in a moment," Spoiler Komrowski said on his Instagram account about a month ago. Well-established rumors also added to it a new eggplant creation, and that phrase (eggplant-oven-oven-pizza-cedar) drew us to the old north like mediocre movies to Netflix’s expense account.
We took "Route 70" pizza (corn cream, burnt mushrooms, onion, chives, anchovies, manchego cheese, NIS 76) and "poetic" pepper pepperoni (pepperoni, roasted tomatoes, spicy arisa, mozzarella, gibbon and leaves). Oregano, NIS 76) from the old ones, the same "Tarshiha" (campfire tomatoes, zucchini, mother, mozzarella, manchego, Kalamata olives, thyme, NIS 68) from the specials, and also "giant sambusak meat and cheese" (burnt tomatoes, spicy arisa, Meat ragout, mozzarella, Kalamata olives, oregano, NIS 72).
We took, we were asked "how hungry are you?" On the part of the staff, and we sat down to deal with the issue.
Pita of experts
Let them do to you on the fire.
You will not regret
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Great love stories started like this.
Creation of the falafel of Pizza Levantina (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
The pepperoni pizza warned of spiciness but finally stopped at just the right hot spot.
It's not easy for humans, it's even more complicated in pizzas
We will start excellent, and slowly climb, but first the dough: we were skeptical. We thought we had already seen everything in the pizza. That we will not need innovations. That innovations are often a legless gimmick. Not here. Non-pizza dough, which in Italy would surely have been more appealing towards the worlds of focaccia, shallow and refined here to the right thickness, to the right texture, to the right bite. Some initial resistance, much secondary dedication. Great love stories started like this. that too.
The pepperoni pizza warned of spiciness but finally stopped at just the right hot spot. It's not easy for humans, it's even more complicated in pizzas. Unlike quite a few other places in the city, the pepperoni was present, and a bite from it was a pepperoni bite. Sounds silly, but trust us it's an equation that doesn't exist all the time. The rest - the sauce, the Komrovsk oregano, the classic mozzarella and the gibbon with the spinach - was excellent as well.
"Route 70" has taken another step forward in the level of complexity, with a welcome game between corn, mushrooms, onions and cheese.
Seemingly, a yellow pizza like many around us.
In practice, perhaps the only one who managed to make a real sauce from showers, without falling into the grainy and moldy traps that have been served to us so many times in the past.
The mushrooms were good, the onion-chives-anchovies boosted the umami spotlights and this northern ride was smooth and bump-free.
The first smoker
The burger is perfect and the kebab disassembled us, but there is something even better here
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Liguria, Valencia, what does it matter?
Pizza Tarshiha
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Pizza Levantina (@pizza_levantina)
This piece, huge and all-blurring, also revealed without meaning to what must be Komrovsky's next stage
The new pizza - still northern, though much more Liguria-Valencia than Tarshiha - brought together thin slices of zucchini and sausage, and increased saltiness with olives and the same manchego. Along with the smoky sauce and the tingling thyme, it ignited in his mouth without us noticing a delicious cosmopolitan campfire.
This pizza feast culminated with a non-pizza dish, and its definition as a sambusak is also a little sinful in coordinating expectations. It is a kind of huge pocket of dough, a calzone that is sewn at the edges with rosemary leaves, and waits for a coming-and-coming cut with bubbling patience.
The excellent dough of the pizzas embraces a self-confident meat-cheese mixture, and crossing it provided a complete meal, as well as justified receptions for those who feared we were ordering too much food. It's a bit of a dirty bite, but oh how we want more such dirt in our lives. Brown and crunchy dough only in the really outer layers, then a little more dough, then meat and cheese, and olives that visit occasionally, remind you how much power and impact they have.
This piece, huge and all-blurring, has also unintentionally revealed what Komarowski's next stage must be - just such "pitas", rough and unshaped, with all the things he dreams about at night. For us it will start yesterday.
It takes a supercomputer and quite a few bookkeepers to name how many attempts our leading food people have made in recent years in faster, more accessible, more street kitchens.
It usually ends in disappointment, or just a pop-up, a concept that allows for quick remorse and preserves a denial space that is usually reserved only for atomic bombs.
No denial is needed here, and God forbid remorse.
There's a real bomb here.
I imagine Komrovsky getting into this project, sometime when we knew nothing about anything, and saying to himself "why not? We will try".
I imagine him too proud to be half-invested, and too thorough to overlap.
I imagine how he is swept away for good, discovers a new world, new customers, a new Israel - and wants more.
And I imagine this sambusak stand.
Come on, even a pop-up.
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