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Yaoza: Basement stairs and a secret code in the door lead to a surprising Asian in Tel Aviv
It takes quite a few steps to get here, but it's pretty much worth it
Tags
Sushi
Asian food
Serpina
Yaniv Granot
Tuesday, 24 August 2021, 06:00 Updated: 06:54
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"Hello, we have a table reserved for a quartet. What? What do you mean to which restaurant? To this restaurant. To which one? Wait, I'll check with her on the phone. Rina, Rina. Which restaurant are we registered for?"
Without asking them and without talking to them (just. I asked them and talked to them, but it was not really necessary), I can firmly state that the good people of "Serpina" (and of the Turkish "Maris" across the road) in Tel Aviv had a good sense of humor and entrepreneurship And developed, with quite a bit of motivation to host.
They thought overseas, New York and London and Barcelona and all sorts of other cities that make us crave a fourth vaccine and only their roll on the tongue scatter cosmopolitan glitter in the air. The popular North Tel Aviv feels more like, well, North Tel Aviv.
What could be wrong with Pini Balili here?
The new Turkish of Tel Aviv
To the full article
Somehow, it works.
Yoza (Photo: Arkady Raskin)
The concept here is not even a concept: the bottom floor of Serpina was supposed to be a space for private events, but what was delayed and postponed and rolled from deadline to deadline, became during the corona the rethinking base of owner Yaki Kabir.
And in his case, rethinking is also necessarily thinking outside the box.
The result is Yaoza, a real Asian restaurant, under Serpina, which is a real Italian restaurant (both at 10 Einstein Street in Tel Aviv).
There are two hosts in the same messy (and smoky) entrance, what's the point of people lighting a cigarette there?), And you need to know well where you came from and where you are going if you do not want to start calling your spouse to find out what food you should eat today.
Other than that, though, things are relatively sweet.
You say "yoza" and are led to the stairs that are deep in "Serpina", go down to something that is a bit underground and a bit secretive and a bit sexy, ignore two Instagram traps that can already be replaced, and arrive at another hostess.
Another code is typed, and a large dark door opens.
You've arrived.
You can start.
A sharp show.
Yoza
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A post shared by Yaniv Granot (@yanivgranot)
On weekdays the DJ stand is staffed, making the place brighter, but not my party
Yaoza makes food, but is not ashamed to elaborate with dim lighting and music present - both stopped at just the right spot.
On weekdays the DJ stand is staffed, making the place brighter, but not my party.
"They will not order food and drink standing here," the manager clarified.
The result of all this complex play works.
True, there are here and there family tables with shorts and Vince slippers, and even that one from the entrance still couldn't find his chair, but the majority here understood where he had come from, or at least what he could have done to make his evening more successful.
That is, drink something, invest in a date, and eat.
From there, take my word, things will work out almost on their own.
Impressive sushi game.
Yaoza (Photo: Yehonatan Ben Haim)
So what do you eat here? Yeuse's menu is limited, concise and precise. There are a few salads for starters, including a "snow mushroom salad" (with carrots, ginger, hot chili and white soy), a kicking papaya salad and a more Japanese version of Caesar in its characteristics, and there are side dishes such as fried shrimp balls, ban asado, gyoza Successful chicken and also one ton of fish that managed to stir up the bar corner.
The main wing is a bit fancy (chicken steak, salmon or beef fillet) but maybe that's good, because it turns the spotlight and attention on the sushi stand located in front of the kitchen and provides a very sharp show, which at its peak plays with both flames and our heart.
There is a "cold salmon" roll (raw salmon, avocado and chives, salmon top, crème fraîche, yuzu and teriyaki), "grilled salmon" (marinated salmon, avocado and sweet potato, green onion, grilled salmon top, spicy teriyaki mayonnaise, almonds), "Special Yaoza" (Yellowtail, Avocado, Chives, Top Tuna, Koji Soy Glaze, Yuzu Aioli; Tuna, Avocado and Cucumber Wrapped in Chopped Chives, Weed Mix, Wasabi Aioli) which provided receipts for its specialty, Nigerian (including tuna and foie gras version) And sashimi, and also what makes an urban hit - Crispy Rice Tuna (a spicy tuna tartare on crispy rice squares, with avocado and chili) - and rightly so.
Limited, tight, precise.
Yaoza (Photo: Yehonatan Ben Haim)
Ryan Lev Ari of Envisage Studio designed Yaoza while drawing inspiration from the cabaret and jazz clubs of the 1930s, if these were located in an exotic Asian city.
She thought urban, lily and sexy, added crimson and velvet colors, black marble and shiny cherry wood, and somehow managed to make it all work.
This design, with two or three cocktails (delicious, alcoholic and surprisingly good) and well-timed bites that accompany them, teach quite a bit about restaurant gambling in this city.
Say restaurant within restaurant, Asian under Italian, and your head starts to mess up uncomfortably.
Instead, try rolling on the tongue "yoza", and see how everything works out.
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