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Pizza Mocha: The "adults only" menu excites Tel Aviv, and rightly so
We admit that this move started on the left foot.
We are also the first to admit that it works
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pizza
Yaniv Granot
Sunday, 05 September 2021, 06:00 Updated: 07:38
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You had to be completely apathetic, completely innocent or completely blind to the environment in order to receive this email and not rush to mumble to yourself, those around you and how you spice up something about "this time they exaggerated".
For the past two decades, at least street food has had to be consumed in very many places that are not Tel Aviv in order not to develop a cringe in front of this headline and wonder with a rolling eye "what this time", or in more direct translation - WTF.
For all the columns of "Eaters are going"
to the delicious Instagram page of Walla! Food
needed a lot of things, and the overwhelming majority of them - the murmur, the cringe and the WTF shout at the very least - did happen in increasing volume, but it also needed to be tested. Thoroughly research why a valued local pizza thinks it can still innovate something, why this something was chosen to be an "adult menu", and how it was all swallowed up.
Want the bottom line because it's about the attention threshold these days? Yes, it works.Works great even, including the caring.
A magician pulls out a rabbit
We have been waiting for this shawarma for 20 years, which is no exaggeration
To the full article
Blessed condescension.
Mocha's Paris Pizza (Photo: Afik Gabay)
Pizza Mocha was opened about three years ago in Tel Aviv by four childhood friends from Kfar Saba who decided to go a little crazy with the dough and its toppings.
The base was Neapolitan - relatively thin in the center and more apple at the edges - and everything above it swept in every possible direction.
They offered hard-boiled eggs and avocados, potato chips and matbucha, and all of this would not have helped them beyond a gimmick if the pizza itself had not been successful.
Three more branches later, including one close to the village of Sabai, and the business seems to have stabilized a bit.
And once he stabilized, it was time to go crazy again.
That is, the "adult menu" will come and go (and connoisseurs, I am rightly reluctant).
The top of the top
Tell me - does Tel Aviv not need another hamburger like this?
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gold medal.
Mocha's Tokyo Pizza
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A post shared by Yaniv Granot (@yanivgranot)
The special menu includes a visit to four cities - Tokyo (black sesame and black zinc dough, soy and toffee sauce, roasted Camembert, ginger honeycomb, moringa leaves, NIS 79), Amsterdam (cheddar dough, green hemp oil sauce, gouda Dutch, Shimaji, King of the Forest, Portabello and Champignon, NIS 72), Paris (onion bread dough, brown onion cream sauce, spiced fresh cream, fresh chili salad and Parmesan, NIS 72) and marrakech (hyssop dough, matbucha sauce, mozzarella , Roasted hot peppers, roasted tomatoes, bulgarian, fresh herbs and parmesan, NIS 72) - and quite a bit of talk about "special" and "original" ingredients, "sophisticated" pizzas and even "distant lands". You know, exotic France for example.
The Amsterdam pizza was very rich, saturated with cheese and mushrooms, and sent umami everywhere. The cheddar dough could have gone even further towards its original goals (i.e., being something that is beyond a gimmick) but was delicious as well while the green hemp oil was nothing more than a marketing presenter, which was not felt in taste. Very good opening overall.
The Parisian raised the bar with something that almost brought the vision and execution together. The onion dough suffered from the same Dutch problem - a great idea that he was afraid to go and fulfill himself. The brown onion sauce was successful, sweet and deep, in a kind of inverted onion soup version - with the bread wrapping around the bowl now on the bottom. The whipped cream was generously poured over the pizza and was delicious and pungent, but it was desirable to serve it on the side, for dipping, and all in all a blessed French condescension was felt.
The best of them all was, as usual in our world, the Japanese.
A black dough that always-always falls into the photogenic traps was this time successful, not too special in its flavors but also not a moldy carb meant to glorify the story.
The soy-toffee sauce paired well, a thick slice of Camembert in the heart of the tray provided a decent bite for each slice sliced and even the ginger, honeycomb and moringa were present.
One bite with a little more pungency, the next as a smoothie and cheesy and the third sweet-bitter - and back for goodness sake.
Gold medal from Tokyo.
Erez's secret
We came because of the pizza, we settled because of the sambusak
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Umami everywhere.
Mocha's Amsterdam Pizza (Photo: Afik Gabay)
It is almost impossible to stand out in this city, for its culinary attention deficit disorder, with new ventures, new menus, new dishes or just a new attempt to do something new.
Now take this sentence and try to convert everything new into "old", and you will understand why restaurants are such a dangerous profession.
The friends of "Mocha" are surely aware of all this, and keep going.
They already have a small, legitimate network that has slipped under the radar for too long for too many people.
They have a dough that can have (almost) everything, and they have a new specials menu - not just for adults.
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