The new fragrances return to the old, with the scent of freshly picked flowers - Lifestyle

Perfumes are changing. Opening the bottles of the new fragrances we will recognize

, perhaps composed of the most delicate buds such as

(fragile magnolia native to Southeast Asia). All this with the classic industrial systems of the perfumery field that make use of extractions with chemical solvents does not seem possible but we all increasingly need to return to nature and the realization of the 'perfect fragrance' has become a reality. The extraction of pure and faithful essences is the goal achieved by the perfumers who discussed it at the last edition of Pitti Fragranze, the high perfumery fair in Florence. 

What changes? “

, oils and absolutes are different, - explained Mathilde Voisin, Emea ingredients marketing manager of Mane, the French company among the world's largest producers of aromas and fragrances. - “Distillation is not sufficient for fresh flowers, solvent extraction uses petrochemical derivatives and is not satisfactory in the case of blooms. Supercritical extraction, on the other hand, is an excellent green method to appreciate the entire olfactory spectrum but it is a complex procedure. For fresh, delicate and refined flowers, we have recovered an ancient technique, that of

, considered a superior distillation because it gives pure extracts, faithful to the original flowers and uses only natural substances such as vegetable oils to capture the essences ".

reaching the eighteenth century, a time when enfleurage was widely used by master perfumers. Exactly the era of Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, the protagonist of the best-selling novel in the world, or 'The perfume' by Patrick Sunskind. Grenouille describes the ancient extraction technique in great detail 'the oiled plate reflects the sweetest and most erotic essence of the jasmine flower, with fidelity (...) for sure the most refined system for capturing delicate essences, undoubtedly the best'.

Fat, which absorbs odors better than any other substance (try putting a glass of milk next to onions in the fridge, the fat in the drink will quickly absorb the pungent smell). The mechanism has always been known but over the years it has been neglected. The noses now look to our roots and to the most ancestral extraction methods which, combined with innovative techniques, allow us to

. "With this

revolutionary

technique

, we are able to obtain pure and faithful fragrances for example from jasmine grandiflorum flowers, grown in India by supporting the sustainability of the indigenous species cultivation and working together with the local communities of Tamil Nadu, - he said.

, senior perfumer of Mane presenting the E-Pure

extracts

.

In the same way, the pure and faithful essences of the delicate and aromatic Champaca flowers (a type of Magnolia) are obtained. 

In ancient times animal fats were used to make this kind of perfumes, today only odorless vegetable oils are used, such as jojoba, for a range of 100% natural and biodegradable extracts.

A green alternative to classic extractions that reveals an olfactory profile surprisingly close to the authentic scent of fresh flowers.