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Nomi: Delicious here, but precious to Allah

The pictures uploaded to the chains looked promising, the chefs' resume speaks for itself, and the green salad signaled that good things were on the way, but then came the locus dish

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• Restaurant review

Avi Efrati

Thursday, 21 October 2021, 06:15 Updated: 06:29

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Grilled locus, what is this size?

(Photo: Courtesy of the photographers, Shahar Plaut)

Nomi, which recently opened, was perceived even before its launch as the new official refresher of the Israeli restaurant scene. Behind her are two professionals who have not formally led a restaurant to date, but are highly regarded: Yoni Danon and Gadi Bor, who have worked in senior positions at Meir Adoni's restaurants in the past. Danon was, among other things, the acting chef in the class for a significant period. Bor also went through significant stops in his journey, including Katit and Jaffa Tel Aviv. Refreshing, not only because there is only one significant restaurant in the entire northern Sharon area (Goz and Daniel) - it is not enough at all; And how many new Tel Aviv restaurants can already be invented at all? - Refreshing, because the photos that Danon uploaded to Bor before and during the launch looked like the real new thing, the one that many have longed for.

Nomi is located only a short distance from Highway 4, adjacent to agricultural land.

Its endearing structure is reminiscent of large and beautiful rural inns in the right places, far from here.

The walk from the parking lot in the evening, with non-grandiose but beautiful garden lighting, immediately adds to the atmosphere.

The interior space, modern and fun, is relatively limited, but the covered terrace on three levels is large, inviting and especially pleasant.

As those who have made significant years in Meir Adoni's flagship restaurant, Bor and Danon are immediately suspicious of the essential bug that has accompanied the cult for most of its years under it: excessive grandiosity, mastery of techniques from the "look, look! All-I-know" genre and far too many ingredients on the plate.

But the photos that the two began uploading to the network before the restaurant opened sent a reassuring message.

The dishes seemed much more connected to reality than a megalomaniacal fantasy.

The encounter with the menu reinforces this feeling.

He is short, tight, clearly avoids ostentation and seems to aspire to localism and nationality.

It has a number of mazats alongside bread, four small ones, 11 medium-sized dishes and that's it.

Last week

\ A restaurant with a culinary compass that is set correctly

To the full article

Lamb market skewer (Photo: Courtesy of the photographers, Orly Brands Klein)

We went for three intermediate categories that looked more like starters -

(NIS 67),

(NIS 69) and

(NIS 72) - and two that evoked more main association:

(NIS 118) and

(98 shekels). We asked to flow the dishes one by one, into a kind of small tasting meal, and so it was.

The salad came first and was particularly successful. Fresh and excellent greens, with a significant coefficient of crispiness thanks to the bread and hazelnut crumble, and an excellent sauce, based on Parmesan cream. Both the raw materials, both the sauce and the crumble have proven that those who do the craft have an in-depth understanding of food and a great hand. There is no shortage of chefs who invest a lot in flashy dishes and neglect the green salad. A restaurant that does not fall into its green salad, signals that it will be good in the future as well.

The eggplant risotto was the next dish. Usually risotto is a moldy and burdensome affair. The risotto we got was far from it. The burnt taste of the eggplant is very present, burnt sage gave a cylindrical roundness; Excellent Circassian cheese (Hirsch interface) added deep-tasting protein and very rich delicate olive oil. The puddle of tomato sauce on the side added mostly color. Surprisingly, she was not good enough in itself. The risotto did well without it.

We had hoped that the sequel would continue to be very good, as it has been until now, but the crispy lamb salad stopped at "good" only. It had plenty of fresh leaves, too few hot tiny chunks of lamb, nice fermented chili, not too spicy, and a puddle of goat yogurt. Everything was fine, but the excellence of the sweeping treatment we encountered in the salad and risotto was not noticeable here.

When the locus portion arrived, we were a little taken aback by its dimensions. The weight of the piece of fish did not exceed 80, at most 90 grams. As a dish it was very good, even excellent: the locus was excellently made, with a great charcoal burning touch. Next to it were hot lettuce leaves topped with chicken stock and lime kefir with black pepper, toast, chickpea cream and lemon. The sliced ​​sponsors conveyed delicately wrapped flavors, the chickpea cream excelled and the bread absorbed everything successfully. The ham is not one of those diners who must have half a cow on a plate and four whole potatoes to be provided with a portion of animal protein. But the miniatures here undoubtedly hurt the experience. One shekel per hundred grams of fish, no matter how you turn it, it's a hallucination.

The lamb shank portion on a skewer was also quite small.

It had not a lot of chunks and not large ones, on a skewer, with Maggie tomatoes in the oven, hot pepper, mint and boiling butter.

It was a high-quality, well-handled skewered food, without the particular coefficient of complexity that has characterized the dishes so far.

The lamb itself was nice, not excellent and the whole dish was good, not excellent.

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A post shared by NOMI נומי (@ nomi.monash)

We shared

(48 shekels) that came as a ball with oats, a fig leaf patisserie, milk cream and bead vinegar. It managed to not be too sweet and not too heavy, maintain delicate balances and well emphasize the taste of its base ingredients. Definitely a worthy dessert.

So the base level in the new Nomi is good at the very least and at times very good to excellent. It is clear that two serious professionals are in charge of the wheel who do not compromise on raw materials and carry to measured creativity. Sparks? Yes, but not many. On the other hand, most of the food is undoubtedly very tasty. Since this is just the beginning it can be assumed that it will go and focus and be within a few months more pointed.

And now for pricing.

When looking at the menu the prices seem sane.

During the meal, when one perceives that what was built in the coefficient of expectations as a kind of mains is not like that at all and what is ostensibly portrayed as a mains is actually an intermediate portion, one realizes that it is quite false here.

It seems that in about 10 to 20 percent of the standard accepted in a restaurant, quality and investment are equivalent.

Is this justified?

The fact of the awakening of contemplation probably speaks for itself.

In other words, pricing seems to start to really justify itself as the food gains additional dimensions of excellence.

On the other hand, Nomi has just started her journey.

No great restaurant was like this as soon as it opened and the chances are very good that it will happen later.

Until then, it is possible and worthwhile to get to it and take into account: delicious here but a little expensive.

Account: (Photo: Walla !, Walla system)

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