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Wine review
It's hard to overstate the pleasure these wines have given us
Avi Efrati sips six wines from two small and personal wineries from the Upper Galilee, passionate and prolific and delights
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wine
Avi Efrati
Wednesday, 10 November 2021, 14:15 Updated: 15:09
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(Photo: PR)
In the current tasting, there are two tiny, personal wineries from the Upper Galilee: Lahat - the private wine line of the winemaker Itai Lahat, and Pora - a new winery from the Upper Galilee, belonging to the Ben Ayun family of winegrowers from Moshav Elkosh in the Upper Galilee. The winemaking of Lahat takes place at Kishor Winery. Fertile wines are made at the family home, with Lahat being the advisory winemaker. It's hard to overstate the pleasure that this six delicious wines gave me - three from each winery.
The wines of Lahat Winery are well known to those who are interested. His "white passion" is one of the most significant white Mediterranean definitions in recent years. For the past two years he has been producing "Leichter", a fuller and richer white. Both are at their best even in the current vintage. The novelty this year is "Lahat Rosan" which instead of aging in wood stayed in an Italian amphora. The effects of this twist are hard to miss. Although this is a Roseanne that has not yet reached its peak, its qualities and character are not implied.
Fura is nothing less than an exit, about which they have not yet spoken, and certainly have not yet written.
Her review here is the first to be written about her at all and has three varietal wines: Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc.
It is impossible not to be impressed by the precision, lightness and cleanliness of the Sauvignon, as well as by the multi-nuanced, restrained and elegant complexity of the Chenin Blanc.
Fertile wines are signed by father Yoel Ben Iyun and son Tzuk, accompanied by Lahat.
And if this is their initial statement of intent, it's much better to wait for both the Reds to arrive later in the winter and the next vintages.
The Lahat wines can be obtained here,
the fruitful wines at 052-8666360
for life!
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To the full article
(Photo: PR)
Lahat, white 2020
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible:
82% Roseanne and 18% Viognier from the Upper Galilee.
Fermentation in oak barrels designed for white wines.
The cessation of malolactic unrest has not yet been completed.
A nine-month stay on precipitation in barrels.
Golden color.
Aromatic nose, slightly citrus.
Medium body.
13.1% alcohol by volume.
Some?
120 shekels.
Best for:
fish and seafood.
What the reviewer said:
White passion without Sauvignon Blanc, built from Mediterranean varieties only.
The Roseanne and Viognier do not seem to lack the particular dimension of structure that Sauvignon has added to this blend in the past.
Cleanliness, sharpness, lightness, freshness, minerality, aromaticity;
What more could we ask for from a Mediterranean rectangle?
As always with this wine from the moment of its launch - an excellent wine that best defines the white Mediterranean Israeliness in the beautiful show.
Value for money:
3.5 / 5 (good).
In seven words:
One of the definitions of the Mediterranean style in white Israeli wines.
(Photo: PR)
Lahat, Leichter 2020
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible:
53% Grenache Blanc, 33% Roseanne and 14% Marsan from the Upper Galilee.
Fermentation in dedicated 400-liter barrels.
The Grenache Blanc and the Marsan fermented together.
Roseanne separately.
None of them without "Malolactic".
Nine months in the barrel before creating the blend.
Slightly greenish golden color.
Aromatic and mineral nose.
full body.
13.2% alcohol by volume.
Some?
135 shekels.
Best for:
fish, seafood, oysters, white meats, Lebanese / Galilean Arab food.
What the reviewer said:
Leichter is the big, massive and chubby brother (well, even in everything relative wine) of white passion.
It has complexity, depth, impressive minerality, unequivocal dryness, a significant mineral layer whose taste deepens as the wine is less cold and more penetrating.
It is a wine that after about an hour of opening like a diffuse sense of secret, almost hovering.
If it has not been clear so far, the character here is unambiguous.
If white passion is always wonderful but unmatched for the warm months, Leichter is a true winter white.
Value for money:
3.5 / 5 (good. Relatively expensive but extremely high quality).
In three words:
winter white.
(Photo: PR)
Passion, Roseanne 2020
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible:
100% Rosen from the Upper Galilee. Use only "free liquid". At the end of the fermentation in the barrels, the wine was transferred, on its sediment, to an Italian amphora with a volume of 300 liters for an eight-month stay. Greenish golden color. A particularly mineral nose. Medium-full body. 13.2% alcohol by volume.
Some?
150 shekels.
Best for:
fish, seafood, oysters and white meats.
What the reviewer said:
"Rosan 2020" is Lahat's first to age in the amphora, instead of an oak barrel.
Amphora allows processes that take place in the barrel (micro-oxidation and stay on the precipitate) without the familiar presence of the flavored wood present.
This is a choice that enhances the characteristics of the strain and trout.
This is indeed a truly wonderful wine.
The sourness is very noticeable on the palate.
It is a "broad" wine relative to passion wines, with a particularly mineral layer, a slight hint of bitterness, of the good kind, at the end.
Still a bit young and will probably open again during the next half year.
Excellent fire now.
Value for money:
3.5 / 5 (expensive but one of the best local wines in the price category. Therefore, it is good value for money).
In eight words:
an excellent wine that will be fascinating to continue to follow its development.
(Photo: PR)
Fertile, Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible:
Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the Ben Iyun vineyard in Moshav Elkosh, in the Western Upper Galilee.
Fermentation in stainless steel tanks.
Without wood.
Slightly transparent golden color.
In the nose white fruit, citrus.
Light-medium body.
12% alcohol by volume.
Some?
90 shekels.
Best for:
ceviche, fish tartare, gravlax, pastas.
What the reviewer said:
Excellent fruit, not laden at all, well balanced with precise acidity.
Sharpness, cleanliness, dryness, lightness and charming freshness.
Value for money:
4/5 (very good).
In two words:
great wine!
(Photo: PR)
Fertile, Chenin Blanc 2020
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible:
Anin Blan grapes from the Ben Iyun vineyard in Moshav Elkosh, in the Western Upper Galilee.
Six-month fermentation and aging in 300-liter oak barrels.
Deep golden color.
In the nose a fruity layer and a mineral layer.
Medium body.
13% alcohol by volume.
Some?
110 shekels.
Best for:
fish and seafood mains, oysters, white meats.
What the reviewer said:
Chenin Blanc holds a charming fruit, sharp acidity, unequivocal minerality, great complexity, plenty of nuances and great precision.
The gastronomic coefficient is very high which makes it great for almost any sea-based meal or white meat.
Value for money:
4/5 (very good).
In nine words:
a really great wine from a winery that is nothing short of a discovery.
(Photo: PR)
Fertile, Cabernet Franc 2019
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible:
Cabernet Franc grapes from the Ben Iyun vineyard in Moshav Elkosh, in the Western Upper Galilee.
16 months aging in 22 liter oak barrels.
Slightly oval red color.
In the nose black fruit and flowers.
Medium body.
13.5% alcohol by volume.
Some?
110 shekels.
Best for:
carpaccio and beef tartare, minute steak, steak.
What the reviewer said:
Black fruit decorated with spices and flowers.
Powerful on the one hand but unparalleled soft on the other.
Very elegant, slightly velvety, fresh and a bit "minty", with subtle hints of smoking.
There is a particularly delicate work with wood, which maintains the high gastronomic coefficient of the wine.
Every meat dish will be greatly enjoyed.
Very good value for money.
Value for money:
4/5 (very good).
In four words:
Cabernet Franc in his beautiful show.
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