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Kabaka: It has not left yet, but for Tel Aviv it is already good enough

True, as a Hippo baqa from home, she has not left, at least for now.

But in this case, the songwriter is actually wrong - almost better, than nothing

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• She left

• Jaffa

Avi Efrati

Thursday, 11 November 2021, 08:00 Updated: 08:02

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Shoshbarak in Kabaka (Photo: Afik Gabay)

Azba, in the Galilee village of Rama, is one of the best restaurants in the north of the country. Habib and Minerva Daoud have decades of experience in the building on the outskirts of the village, which has expanded over the years. The Daoud couple produces traditional Galilean-Shami food there in their most invested and delicious show. On every trip to the Galilee, Ezba is a must stop with quite a few dishes that have gained cult status.

Like other Galilean Arab restaurants that have gained status over the years, it has also been preserved from reaching the center of the country. There, in the north, more convenient and right for them. It was impossible to imagine Diana and El Babur at the time, and nowadays Luna and Sahara Palace are opening branches in Tel Aviv. Part of Maxman is related to traveling to them, which always has, a bit, the aroma of a little jump abroad, at least for the people of the center of the country.

The new baqa is trying to change that equation.

This is actually the daughter restaurant of Izba, run by the couple's three sons: Iyad, Bashar and Amir, in Kedumim Square in Jaffa.

With a little help from Dad, the three, boys in their twenties, bring her left to Tel Aviv.

Well, not exactly Tel Aviv.

There will also be those who will not fully accept the term "Tel Aviv-Yafo" in relation to Kedumim Square, which has experienced many years of neglect and is considered a complex that is visited mainly by tourists from abroad. Someday the crown of the past.

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To the full article

Starters in Kabaka (Photo: Afik Gabay)

In the evening hours of one of the last Fridays, Kedumim Square looked like it might be starting to wake up, at least compared to the long years it was possible to go through there without seeing anyone. Wandering the square it is impossible not to feel its immense archaism. Its heyday was probably in the 1970s, at most the early 1980s. Will the new places be able to bring back to the square some of the animals that characterized it then, in prehistoric times?

Back to Kabaka. A look at the menu takes one at a time to the main restaurant in the Galilee, along with toppings that correspond with life on the beach: a dish of shrimp and a dish of Dennis, both of which convey a bit of detachment compared to the rest of the menu. Everything else feels like a baby left, with all the well-known and well-remembered suspects from the North. To reinforce the feeling the father, Habib Daoud, is seen moving from the kitchen to the "Flor" and back. Came to help the children.

We did not have much hesitation about the choice and went for

(45 shekels),

(44 shekels) and

(35 shekels) - well-known and well-known classics - for opening.

Hubiza had more burgul (thin) than Hubiza and lots of fried onions into a caramel that added a sweetening dimension.

Above were pomegranate seeds that gave a dimension of freshness and on the side of yogurt.

The fried onion gave a sweetness, the hubiza touch of the fruit of the earth and everything together was one of the perpetual dishes of the Galilean cuisine in good execution.

The brine dish had lots of rice and noodles and brine cooked over.

Everything was wrapped in chicken stock which gave a subtle depth and was delicious.

The gerbera salad - with fresh, sour-bitter-spicy leaves, purple onion, sumac and pomegranate seeds - gave lightness and balance to the relatively carbohydrate and heavy dishes, consumed on a rather hot day.

It is impossible not to engage in such a context compared to the original.

The first three were good by any standard but it seems that in relation to the very high standard known from the parent restaurant, they were kind of "almost".

Cuba Sinai in Kabaka (Photo: Afik Gabay)

We continued to two more Galilean-Shamite classics, in which we met Abzah more than once in spectacular performances:

(

NIS 94) and

(NIS 92).

First came the shoshbarak sachets, nine in number, in a large round pan that had lots of soup based on yogurt, with onions. It was a really great dish - left at its best - with dough with an optimal texture, a very tasty filling and yogurt soup from Rama Dairy, which wrapped everything in measured sourness and true love. This is what food of this kind looks like in his elite genre show. Everyone tries, individuals succeed.

The Chinese Cuban dish, in a round pan, with a layer of burgul topped with minced meat and again burgul on top, and with zucchini on the side and tahini next to it, was just fine.

Cuban Sinai is built on the play of contrasts between the intense flavors of the meat and the special texture of the baked burgul.

In order to get the best out of this Chinese, more meat had to be added - some of it was missing - and its flavors sharpened much more.

The remnants of the yoghurt soup from Shoshbarak added sourness and depth but the dish stopped somewhere in the “okay” to “good” area.

not great.

Not very good either.

For dessert we shared

(NIS 45), consisting of semolina and cheese with rose syrup.

It's a dessert that plays with the saltiness of the gibbon, the moderate sweetness, the semolina grains and the touch of the scorch on top, from the oven.

Was delicious and good.

Yes, in leaving we ate a probably perfect version of this huge dessert, which is suitable for family and not for a couple at all.

This is not to say that the current dish was not good enough as an Arabian dessert.

she Yes.

The Bottom Line:

The Daoud boys may have learned all their lives how to prepare excellent family food, but it is unrealistic to expect that in a new restaurant, about two months after opening, it has already aligned with the original. On the other hand, even almost leaving or close to leaving is a lot, certainly if it takes place in an arena where even if you look for such food in candles, you will not find. So the arrival of Kabaka and the Daoud family to the center is definitely an event. This is already Galilee Arab rural food that is unparalleled not only in Tel Aviv and Jaffa, but also in the rest of Gush Dan.

Daoud needs to be given more time to get organized, focus and manage to get the most out of this food.

At the moment, even though the place has been running since August, people are still talking in terms of running.

In my opinion, it is possible to speak even in terms of a feasibility study.

As mentioned, it is not standard for Arab restaurateurs from the north to open a restaurant in the center, and in order for those who have already opened to remain, there must be a number of conditions that will allow the peg to be driven deep into the center.

In the case of Kabaka, along with everything related to kitchen work, people should also start arriving at Kedumim Square.

Right now, even though something might be starting to happen there, the place is still perceived by the vast majority of diners and blazers as a not-quite-attractive hole.

Tourists from abroad may change the equation. As mentioned above, Abraz, preceded Lcbcah, eating mostly tourists, then burst corona. Fingers crossed Lcbach. If the stars will work in its favor, the gain will be ours.

(Photo: Walla !, Walla!)

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