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An embarrassing guide to the perfect stew
In Ruthie Russo's cookbook "The Recipe Book Every House Needs", among lots of wonderful recipes, we found a complete and detailed guide to making the perfect stew at home, and just waited for the weather to cool down a bit to pull it out, we know what we're going to make on Friday
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recipe
Homin
Ruthie Russo
Ruthie Russo
Thursday, 18 November 2021, 08:15
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Ruthi Russo's perfect stew (Photo: Zohar Ron)
The kitchen of Ruthie Russo.
The recipe book that every home needs, Gordon Books Publishing (Photo: Godron Books)
Some time ago I was cooking at a family bar mitzvah from London. I sat and built them a young and cheeky menu, full of spicy, full of tahini, full of pickled lemons and Syrian olives and fresh bread - between focaccia and prana, and tomatoes and herbs and salted gibbon, but the people of the kingdom canceled all the Mediterranean carnival I presented to them and asked for one thing - Homin. Like the last of the pioneers I was suddenly embarrassed in front of the exile food they were asking for. What about me and this Eastern European cuisine and how will I sign a gray pot of crushed cholent?
The pot (actually four pots) became a life project. Experiments and questions and research questions and a lot of legumes were devoted to him, and at the end of an entire doctoral dissertation with one brown and hot broth in his heart, conclusions also emerged. They may not be far-reaching, but it's pretty amazing to discover how much science, some chemistry and physics, is bubbling up there under the lid for an entire night.
True, this can be bypassed-but not unless you're a techie who knows what he's doing. Throw all the ingredients in, cover with water and send to the oven. And with confidence you will get khomin. But if you also pay attention to it, if you treat each ingredient with due respect before it is absorbed into the public space of the cooking pot, it will reward you at the end of the process with its most accurate baked version. A good khomin is one coherent work whose totality is greater than the whole. Good khomin is based on a dynamic relationship between onion and bean, between pondera and potato, between rice and quiche and salt and grits. One gives flavor, the other gives liquids, the third adds fat or bone or an interesting texture, the fourth absorbs and swells and the fifth hides underneath to surprise at the end those who did not give up and dived inside. And all together they are a cheerful choir that by virtue of some ancient biology activates in every person who breathes in his nose the taste and smell glands together with the memory gland on Grandma and the gland of dreams on Diaspora - in Krakow or Izmir or Marrakesh.
Good broth is all of these, but is for a moment not a puree or a pulp or a soup of unidentified substances.
In a good khomin you can know exactly what is on your plate at any given moment and upgrade and add some of your favorite parts.
You will do the mixing at your leisure, one by one.
And like the melting pot of the realities of our lives, my pot of khomin, which I served with great pride at the London Bar Mitzvah is a meeting of cultures, identities, materials and flavors, leaning on my two grandmothers, my mother and mother-in-law, and God take me, also on my personal taste.
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All the way to the perfect khomin (Photo: Zohar Ron)
An embarrassing guide to the perfect stew
Step by step I will lead you to it. We will discuss each part of the khomin in detail and understand how to build this khomin, or other khomin in which your and your family's favorite ingredients are incorporated, intelligently and correctly.
The soprito effect
In fact, the scientific name of the soprito effect is "Myrad effect" after the French chemist Louis Camille Meyer who at the beginning of the last century explained one of the most important cooking laws ever. Unlike a million other chemistry laws related to cooking, his law addressed the question of what makes food delicious. Meyer discovered that upon exposure of certain proteins to high temperature, hundreds of new molecules of taste and smell and aroma develop. It is this exposure that makes us sniff the smell of steak and not the smell of carpaccio. This effect is responsible for the fact that pretzels, fried onions, French fries, milk jam and roasted coffee are some of the best things the world has to offer.
If you've ever made a soprito you probably know that this dish is based entirely on the Maynard Carnival.
Roast the meat, onion and potatoes until they are browned and blasted with mayard, add water and form a rich, brown stock in which all the ingredients are cooked.
Khemin also loves this Spanish attitude, rest assured, so you should roast all the ingredients before roasting: potatoes, onions and meat.
meat
Please, say goodbye to the number 5 once - the same popular muscle piece for roasting and chowder. Clearly it is the safe choice of housewives whenever a stew comes their way - it is a strong and non-greasy slice that responds well to cooking in liquids. But in khomin the meat is not just an addition of protein but a real spice. And the most flavorful parts of meat are the ones that have fat or bone in them or both. Fat in khomin is a well-known secret. Only he has the real ability to perfume an entire pot full of legumes and carbs with a deep meaty flavor. It is therefore advisable to combine a very oily portion, such as a pondera, and a portion close to the bone such as the arm muscle (number 8) or osoboku, which comes with the bone itself.
How much meat do you need?
This is a tricky question that depends very much on family eating habits. However, since we have chosen two relatively inexpensive chunks here, one can be generous with them. Think about 100-150 grams of muscle meat per person and another 100 grams of pondera per person.
How to handle meat?
The meat of both types should be cut into fairly large cubes, 4-5 cm, and in general it is better to choose fresh and quality meat. It's amazing how much less crap there is with it. The meat cubes are roasted in one layer, with very little oil, over a high flame.You want to hear a loud "toss" at the moment the meat meets the pot.You can roast the meat in the stew pot, thus gaining all the roasted protein particles stuck to the bottom.
Onion
Onion, a good friend of the Myrad effect mentioned above, becomes a great natural sweetener that also paints the broth in a mulatto hue.
Pick tiny onions, peel them, but leave them intact, and give them a good roast on all sides with a little oil or in a hot oven (220 degrees) for 20 minutes or until golden-dark.
Legumes
Or, they are the most tricky part. I can not bear their tendency to fall apart and become an indistinct mash at the bottom of the pot. There are several solutions to this that are worth adopting.
Soaking:
Soaked legumes are cooked evenly. The cold water seeps into the legume and opens the passages in it. An induced chickpea that enters the cooking water will be boiled on the inside and outside at the same time so that its outer layers will not soften and disintegrate.
Early cooking:
It is highly recommended to give the legumes half-cooking in water with salt before entering the pot. That way they can be placed at the top, at the mercy of the steam, and not sent to hell at the bottom, where they are doomed to death by squeezing and overcooking.
Salt:
Usually, when cooking legumes, do not add salt because it delays cooking and makes it difficult for them. Here he is actually good. Even so, they go into the oven for long hours. The salt will keep them.
Which legumes to choose:
Which one do you like.
I prefer ones that have a distinct character and are very different from each other - like chickpeas and white beans.
How to put:
Legumes triple their volume in cooking.
If exaggerated they swell too much and push the pot lid up.
Early cooking helps calculate volumes and saves mistakes.
Cloth diaper
please, do not go!
I know there are not many things that take out the urge to cook like the instruction to buy a cloth diaper.
I solved this in one visit to Nahalat Binyamin.
I bought a thin Tetra fabric, ten shekels per meter, for thirty shekels.
I came home with a sheet that lasted for a few years.
In khomin, cloth diapers are a breathable wall that allows for cooperation, without lynching the finer materials.
Eggs
The eggs are placed in a pot after a short cooking time in boiling water which aims to remove the pink stamp and dirt residue from the eggshell.
Eggs do not wash because the shell is not sealed and the water injects substances from the outside in.
I love Turkish-style hamindos like my grandfather used to eat - with salt and ground black pepper and lots of lemon.
Potatoes
Like legumes they also have a tendency to be buried at the bottom and crushed into puree.
They must be up.
The steam and heat will cook them, but as with good soprito, here too I prefer to fry them a little earlier.
Salt
Full of rules and principles I listed here, but if they were to let me take just one principle to a lonely island it would be the next commandment: the cooking water should be too salty.
This law is true for all cooking water: of flakes, rice, pasta and khomin.
When the salt disperses and saltes an entire stew, the salinity level drops by almost forty percent and there is no worse than a bland stew, responsibly.
It can be completely crushed, mixed and suspicious, just not bland.
The way to salt the broth is to either bring it to a boil on the gas and then salt and taste or boil a lot of water with salt and pour over the broth.
temperature
Simple formula: 40 minutes on high heat, overnight on low heat, and again on high heat for half an hour or until boiled in the desired color.
Layers
The geology of the stew states that the flavors and meat will lie down in the liquids, legumes and eggs in the middle and the carbohydrates up.
If the meat is on top it will dry out.
If the carbs are down they will break down.
I was truthful enough.
Here's a recipe.
Perfect broth
Recipe By: Ruthie Russo, from
★
★
★
★
★
50 minutes work
Over 8 hours total
Easy to prepare
8 diners
fleshy
Beef
Casserole dishes
Homin
Lunch
meat
kosher
A perfect stew by Ruthi Russo (Photo: Zohar Ron)
Conversion calculator
Ingredients
¾ Kuskhita
¾ Cup grains
¾ as white beans
¾ Couscous
1 kg of pondera, with bone, cut into large cubes
1 kg of arm muscle mass, cut into large cubes
5 sliced potatoes
10 small peeled onions (onions)
3 bones (bone marrow, it is also possible 4)
8 eggs
Gut
3 Jahanon sliced into 4
¾ Cup ready-mixed rice with wild rice (optional)
2 tablespoons sea salt (heaped)
Black pepper (heaped)
Paprika (heaped)
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar (heaped tablespoons)
Oil as needed (for early cooking of raw materials)
From salt (for pre-cooking of the raw materials)
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Preparation
How to make the perfect stew?
1 Soak all the beans for at least 5 hours, possibly overnight.
Put each type of bean inside a clean white cotton cloth and tie.
The fabric should be very loose to allow them to grow.
2 Bring to a boil a large pot with plenty of water and salt (1 tablespoon of salt per liter of water) and cook the beans.
(You can also cook them all together, except that the cooking times are different from each other: rice: 10 minutes, cereals: 15 minutes, wheat: 15 minutes, white beans: 25 minutes, chickpeas: 35 minutes).
3 Remove the half-cooked and cloth-wrapped legumes into a colander.
4 Heat a little oil in a saucepan or saucepan over a high flame.
When the oil is very hot, roast the meat cubes on all sides.
Transfer to a plate.
Put the onion in and roast it on all sides (you can also roast it at the same time in a very hot oven).
Remove the onion and roast the potato slices on both sides.
5
Building the Broth: The
Moment of Truth.
Put the roasted meat, brain bones and onions in a pot.
Arrange over the half-cooked legume sachets and the eggs.
Place the quiche on top (pierce it with a fork in several places), the potato slices and the geranium slices.
6 Preheat the oven to a high heat of 220 degrees.
7 Add the water and spices and bring to a boil.
Taste a little of the cooking water.
They should be too salty.
Close the pot with a lid and send in a very hot oven for 40 minutes.
8 Continue to bake the khomin at low heat (100-120 degrees) for an entire night.
1/2 hour before serving, raise the oven temperature to a high heat (220 degrees) and roast until the desired color is obtained.
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Conversion calculators
Conversion calculators
Volumes
From "Litarchus" to "Litarchus"
Weights
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temperature
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