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Yaoza: There are full of girls here who are being photographed for Story, is this considered a success?

$ 15 million was invested in the design of this place, too bad they forgot to invest in food as well

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• Restaurant review

Avi Efrati

Thursday, 18 November 2021, 07:00 Updated: 07:08

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Yaoza, Grandiose Design (Photo: Arkady Raskin)

Yaoza is the third in the factories of the entrepreneur and restaurateur Yaki Kabir, on Einstein Street in Ramat Aviv. It was preceded by the Italian Serpina, which opened a little over two years ago, and the Turkish Maris, which sprouted last spring. Yaoza is located on the extensive basement floor of Serpina. To enter it you have to go through a hostess on the ground floor, walk towards a staircase inside a serpentine, and then go through another hostess. Only then does a heavy door open and you meet Bios.

It is impossible to ignore, even before sitting down, the attack that the design produces on the biosphere. Significant dimness, strong elements of light, color and image. It looks ornate, very extroverted. It is not unreasonable to say that this is a place whose design is grandiose, even megalomaniacal. The promotional letters about the restaurant made us realize that $ 15 million had been invested in its establishment. It's the money. It can be said this way too: those who like places whose design is clean, will not go crazy over the atmosphere in Bios. Those for whom extravagance does it, will die for yoza.

After all that, when browsing the menu are a little surprised. A hint of the grandiosity described in the previous paragraph is not present in it. More than that: if we had met him in a less glittering hostel, we would have talked about modesty at all. Yaoza is another pan-Asian restaurant, with representations to most cuisines considered immediate suspects from East Asia, along with a sushi section. The menu is small, unpretentious at all, does not try to say anything significant or innovate anything. Nor does he try to insist on too much loyalty to the source.

The contrast between the atmosphere of the place and the food menu is a little surprising. It was appropriate and requested that the design extravagance continue for the food as well. That the menu will provide huge sushi and sashimi combinations, in boats with flags and that other dishes representing the best rules of the nouveau riche genre will star in it. The lack of correlation is noticeable. It's not that there's no touches of the genre on the sushi list, but that's not its direction. The menu is also surprisingly short and has only three mains: chicken steak, salmon fillet and beef fillet - not exactly dishes with any sex appeal.

Not only the menu itself is restrained, so is the pricing.

In such a place one would expect exorbitant costs.

There is no presence for this.

Yaoza is priced like any restaurant of its kind, without any echo of the atmosphere that exists in it and the huge investment in its establishment.

Either: either it is a conscious strategic decision to make food a secondary element or because of too much investment they have apparently forgotten the food.

Either way, the bottom line is that this is a generic Pan-Asian cuisine, with no pretensions to uniqueness or differentiation, served where it differs in appearance.

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Unpretentious menu (Photo: Jonathan Ben-Haim)

And since we did not come to Leuza to eat chicken and salmon, we were asked to skip them and focus on the other wings of the menu. We started with

(NIS 78), on a standard basis for the sushi section and

(NIS 64) from the first.

The sushi dish included red tuna tartare, cucumber, hemp, avocado topping, spicy mayonnaise and Tobico Arra. It was a generous roll, the tuna was fresh and fresh, the workmanship professional. It is true that the presence of mayonnaise in sushi does not place it in the gourmet genre complexes of the field, but Israelis love mayonnaise in their sushi and overall it was a flawlessly performed roll. When we told the waitress it was not bad but not spicy either, she agreed with us.

The tartare had chopped beef fillet, with shallots, cucumber, coriander, chives, chili, shiso leaves and yolk. It all sat on two small crispy rice leaves. The cattle themselves were impeccable. And if the roll just lacked spiciness, here the varied seasoning set failed to lift the tartar from being faded. The fried rice leaf was particularly oily and really unnecessary. Not a good dish.

We continued with three intermediate courses: one

(NIS 58),

(NIS 62) and

(NIS 68). The Huen Ton dish had three dumplings stuffed with entias and a Sichuan soy sauce. The stuffing that was dull and felt, like beef tartare, was gray and faded. The sauce on the other hand was too intense in flavors, really aggressive. Another bad dish.

The chicken broth showed some improvement in the graph, which dragged down the last two.

Four hot cakes from a burn that she managed not to make judgments in, and left them without excess oiliness, in a not bad chicken filling and a ponzo sauce that managed to be much more delicate than its predecessor that accompanied Wen Ton, and not bad in itself.

The pair of bananas, with long-cooked decomposed asado, spicy mayonnaise, ginger, basil and mint were reasonable.

No admiration was recorded from them but no significant bugs were observed either.

We ate, dipped in spicy mayonnaise that was no longer spicy, and wondered: could it be that the chili reserves in the restaurant ran out on the eve of our arrival?

Or is it the ingrained version of spicy food?

The HM is not among those who do not start their day without taking off a whole shifka pepper even before brushing their teeth, to wake up. I like spicy, but only a little, really.

Sushi and cocktails in Bios (Photo: Jonathan Ben-Haim)

We shared for dessert a

(48 shekels) with butter-baked kaddif, berry coli and ground pistachios. We were amazed to discover a slightly tasteless penne cotta, which the fragrance of the roses does not perfume, the butter-baked kaddif adds only oiliness to it and the other additives add nothing. A failed dessert that leaves a feeling of nothing and nothing, and perhaps the worst dish in the meal.

As we did later the volumes went up.

Yaoza felt more like a club and less like a restaurant.

No one was standing though, but it seemed to be what needed to be done in such a space, more than sitting down to eat.

Those who have come this far in the text understand that with this menu yaoza will not leave a mark on the local culinary sky.

Since the poet does not seem to have intended this in any case, it seems that this is a place of entertainment in which food, consciously or not, plays a completely secondary role.

According to the number of girls who took pictures and uploaded photos from there, the evening and night life of the new and expensive building complex in this part of Ramat Aviv is actually about to be upgraded.

And if this is the direction of the poet, he probably succeeded.

Account: (Photo: Walla !, Walla!)

Yoza, Einstein 10, Tel Aviv, 03-657-9080

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