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Handmade pastrami, and hills of roast beef: two excellent sandwiches in Tel Aviv

In a city that puts countless sophisticated variations into carbs, it's most fun to find two options that want to be like before, about

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• The brothers

• sandwich'

• roast beef

• ham

• Assaf Doctor

Yaniv Granot

Sunday, 21 November 2021, 07:00 Updated: 08:11

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The Brothers Restaurant, American Zionist House, Tel Aviv (Shai Makhlouf)

The second best sandwich I've ever eaten in my life was at Theodore's, sometime in the year 2000 and oh my god how old I am.

The mythological deli (yes, there are places that manage to hold that nickname with Passon) on Yehuda HaMaccabi Street in Tel Aviv will have a very viral turn from the outside at a time when virality was only verbal, and Hagai Dolev took care of everything else from the inside. For food, and also for queuing.

What did this sandwich silver medal include? Do not know. I remember almost nothing of her.

I mean, I don’t remember what kind of bread it was, and I don’t remember what kind of meat and what cheeses went in, how many fresh vegetables and how many pickles, what was spread, whether leaves and what kind of crunch.

But I remember the queue, and my innocent excitement to stand it (indeed, there were times I agreed to participate in this dance, but certainly not anymore), as well as the immense satisfaction at the end - a bite worth all the noise, at a price then expensive, and today - even without Remember exactly how much - would not buy you anything but nerves.

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Mythological, and rightly so.

Theodore Delicatessen (Photo: Hagai Dolev)

It was certainly a perfect sandwich, if only because it had been carried so long in the oral cavity.

The price, by the way, I remember well.

5 shekels

The best sandwich I ever ate in my life was in the corner of the "Achva" elementary school in Ramla, coming the year "Dad, when you were a kid were there colors on TV?".

It was a peanut kiosk that ran parallel to the street and the yard, shaving real estate equally. Shakshuka was poured out and replaced. Yes, it was poured.

What else did this sandwich medal include? I do not know. I remember almost nothing of it.

I mean, I remember the bread - a formidable, fresh loaf, cut into four-piece satchels the size of a nettex - and nothing more, and I suppose with a high degree of sobriety that the shashlik was egg-free, for example, and not really rich, probably relative to what is customary today.

But we all already understood the point - it was certainly a perfect sandwich, if only because it had been carried in the mouth for so long.

The price, by the way, I remember well.

5 shekels.

Today it will not buy you half an end of pita in Tel Aviv, and this is of course - and unfortunately for everyone - a price comparison based on things that really happen.

In retrospect, light years away from those sandwiches, it is clear to everyone who has been there - and in many other places, that such quarter bread sandwiches have been sold in almost every school in the country - that memory sweetens criticism, and that invested delicacies are now tested on much tougher metrics.

It also means that the quest for a bronze medal winner continues all the time.

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"that's mine".

Doctor's Grocery Sandwich

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A post shared by Asaf Doktor (@asafdok)

Did you feel the grape salt in which the pastrami was soaked?

Hell No, of course, but it does not change anything

And so, a post that Assaf Doctor uploaded to his Instagram page, flooded all those sandwiches in my head, and sent me to the "Brothers" grocery store, inside the "Brothers" restaurant.

"I know everyone has their childhood grocery sandwich but it's mine," he wrote, "the brothers' chickpeas, turkey pastrami that we soaked in grape dibs salt and smoked lightly in josper, cabbage salad in mayonnaise, pickles and a little scratch of Arisa."

All this goodness goes into a braided, fresh and simple sesame bun, and is offered for take-out from the refrigerator of the same grocery store, for NIS 21.90. Next to it, there is also a bun with egg salad, caramelized onions, scallions and pickles (18.90), so a two-head picnic is on its way, and when I say "picnic", I mean a sooty bench on a sooty street, without a colorful pique blanket, but with a line view First for excavations.

The sandwiches themselves were fresh, though the one with the egg salad was a little dry towards the end.

The reason why they gathered (and snuck in to buy a sandwich in a cellophane bag just in the minutes when the "brothers" are filled with cheerful lunches) was as promised - a packed, balanced-textured and delicious sandwich.

Was the homemade chickpeas better than usual in the pastrami sandwich genre we all took to school in our lives?

Probably so.

Did you feel the grape salt in which the pastrami was soaked?

Hell No, of course, but it does not change anything in the time tunnel into which Doctor put us.

Such food does not require too much talk

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Modesty and bastards.

The "Wines and Tastes" sandwich

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A post shared by Yaniv Granot (@yanivgranot)

This price, unfortunately, hardly buys sandwiches in this city anymore, certainly not in this size and with this meaty content

Another sandwich showcase, quite similar in its characteristics, is modestly and bastardly hidden in the depths of "Wines and Tastes", the excellent wine shop that planted deep and healthy roots at the entrance to Ramat Gan, and sent another branch towards Weizmann Street in Tel Aviv, near the courthouse.

The entrance may confuse the hungry and confused, and the gin and tequila shelves may justify the temptation, like all seductive gin and tequila shelves, but if you are strong and go a little further in, you will encounter a fairly solid collection of gibbet sandwiches made on site throughout the day. That they are supposed to provide - a sandwich that is a great meal in itself.

The specific sandwich I took included medium-sized chunks of local roast beef, quite a bit of mustard sting, a nice amount of green leaves and celery from the resistance forces, and cost 32 shekels, a price that unfortunately hardly buys sandwiches in this city anymore, certainly not this size and this meat content.

The shady and sympathetic terrace of the store raises gear in the evening with quite a few wines (and flavors), but well worth a visit on a sandy lunch, probably in relation to the other lunch options in this arid area, a slightly depressing culinary enclave that should serve thousands of visitors.

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It is impossible to throw a stone in this city without damaging a sandwich, and rightly so.

With all of its business, it's still the most preferred corner closing option for most of us.

And come on, what other businesses are left here?

Still, and with all the selection, it’s hard to remember in your head a sandwich that has survived more than a few days, or even a day.

Most of them are fine, most of them perform their duties, and from the beginning only a few were meant to compete with memories of a legendary deli and a kiosk that served a balanced third-grade meal to a quarter of a loaf of bread.

Precisely because of all these, it is worth flooding those who are still investing a little more, trying, making an effort.

Their sandwich is our sandwich.

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