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Ziona Cafe, Sharona Market: The magician from the most beautiful courtyard in the country arrives in Tel Aviv

There are countless stressed workers around and at least a similar amount of couriers in a hurry, but Nathanaela Feniger insists on thinking of the man who is about to take a bite

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• Sharona Market

• pizza

• Ness Ziona

Yaniv Granot

Tuesday, 23 November 2021, 08:15 Updated: 08:19

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The facelift of Sharona Market (Shai Makhlouf)

In a way, this is one of Sharona Market's most interesting moves in the last year or two. Put aside Assaf Granit and Rachel Ben Elul, the magician Ariel Rosenthal and Eyal Shani - an impressive collection of food people who have all joined the shaky Tel Aviv complex, but clearly "stars" whose signing is akin to expanding PSG's offensive power during the summer the last one. Noisy, impressive, expensive, but at the heart of the consensus, and almost risk-free.

No, it's something a little different. After many years in Ness Ziona, Nathanaela Feniger and her "Ziona" landed in the center of the main boulevard of the market, and established a Gush-Dan branch of the same well-known institution. Not an extensive network that opens another branch, not a super-brand with powerful reality exposure, but rather a manual picking of an established and thriving place outside the city, and bringing it inside.

Now, barely three months after germination, the conclusions are early and the process still requires time to occur, but one premise has already been formulated without debate - if you love food, you are in favor.

A magician pulls out a rabbit

We have been waiting for this branch for 20 years, and that is not an exaggeration

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The first step is enough.

Ziona Coffee in Ness Ziona (Photo: Gil Ron)

"When I was offered to come here, it felt terribly appropriate. To do something smaller, different, since it allows for some kind of development, and looking at where we can still be."

Ziona Cafe Hans-Zionist just recently finished its 8th birthday celebrations. It is located on the main road in the city, but entering it disconnects you from the hustle and bustle at impressive speed. Inside there is a huge, shady and pleasantly surprising courtyard even on the less pleasant days of the lowlands, a separate event space, and especially a deep sense of a slightly different place - more intimate, more pleasant. It's tempting to say "like before", but clearly there were no such places once, so maybe we should go for "like there is not even now".

All these characteristics, including the relative success and the consistently built atmosphere, give rise to instinctive questions upon entering Sharona Market - there is no quiet here, nor intimacy, let alone a green courtyard and a homely feeling. This is the core of my question, because everything else - food and investment, service and willingness - is unquestionable.

"I do not like to duplicate myself," Fenger explained, "We had a great time during the Corona. We got people home and somehow managed to keep the charm of Ziona, and touch them, but the place became a bit like a factory - a packing and kitchen department - so when I was offered to come here "It felt terribly appropriate. To do something smaller, different, since it allows for some kind of development, and looking at where we can still be."

Just please do not be lazy like us

The perfect brunch that requires a picnic

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Something that is beyond.

Ziona Coffee in Sharona Market (Photo: Gil Ron)

In other bids, it could have been a generic menu of a generic place.

In her hands, this is the place to return to

I sit next to Feniger on the small bar in the eye of the tornado at noon in the market, pushing her into a corner in my clumsy attempts to figure out what the pitch is. Surrounding workers 'flights - most of them with a pre-loaded card with money, but with little time in their pockets - and parallel couriers' flights. What about that and the huge fig trees of Ziona?

"It's hard for me right now to say if I'm happy with the move," Feniger admits, "I have an amazing team here, but the complex is very, very challenging. We are very different here in the landscape, and I'm still trying to crack it. By and large, we try to talk to people "And not just from a place of food."

This situation, she adds, could be the birthday of a colleague from the office, allowing for a more collaborative meal, with multi-course meals and forks and Cebus cards - "luxurious and pampering, when everyone is sitting together" - and at heart real food, an executive meeting or just "something beyond."

"We are very engrossed in Sharona. A person goes down and needs something immediate to take, and move on," she concluded, "We offer him a slightly more special situation, but one that happens every day in the office, for example. Just a fair meal, for those who do not want another hamburger or something in pita. "

If you put those words into a dish, you get buttery polenta with asparagus and mushrooms, fresh fish ceviche or "burnt" potatoes for the first time, at least five rich salads and shattering assumptions, a new wing of "Whole Meal in a Bun", a tight but unpretentious pizza collection Boring and also an impressive square of pasta dishes, two invested fish dishes and a dessert icing pudding.

In other bids, it could have been a generic menu of a generic place.

In her hands, this is the place to return to.

Feniger talks about falling in love and aesthetics, about "moment".

A plus-minus year since the urban delivery market has poured you glorious chefs out of blue boxes, there are hardly any delivery bags that claim to speak to you like that.

Those of "Ziona" say, mean and fulfill.

Intelligent concept.

Ziona Coffee

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In our vision, Ziona was never "supposed to be local"

Feniger and her husband have a rich culinary-business past in their schoolbag, including a groundbreaking street bar ("Ma") " Small '. It was amazingly successful "), and a cafe (" Nathanael ") at a time when the supply of cafes in the city was dismal (" It was a very deserted corner, but I saw a charm in it, I felt there was something very European about it ").

Then the children arrived, and the fatigue came, Ofer the husband "wanted a break", and another long trip went through him, but her longing for the world of restaurants led to Ziona. "In our vision, Ziona was never meant to be local. I had no intention of relying solely on the city's residents, so I took and tried to make the place a little more global, a hidden entrance to a courtyard that is almost unparalleled, and always-pleasant, beyond the neighborhood's cafe. Each of us, "she described,"After all these years, it seems to me that we also succeeded. "

Food that does not have to be a restaurant.

Ziona Coffee

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"We arrived in Ness Ziona and from the first step inside everything fascinated us"

This yard - and the food served in its grounds - was also the magnet of Sharona Market executives.

"We arrived in Ness Ziona and from the first step inside everything fascinated us. It was something we were missing in the market," CEO Itai Eldar described. Them out - to the grass outside the market or as deliveries - and do not require a restaurant. "

This concept, intelligent and obvious of course, is now implemented only due to the smart adjustments that Feniger and Ziona were able to make during the closures." From nothing, a black hole "It became a kind of pilgrimage, people decided where to have a picnic so he could get by with a pass and take a package from Zion," she explained, "and from that point of refinement, I felt a language that could work the same, and better."

Not just food, but something else.

Ziona Coffee

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Ziona Cafe Tel Aviv (@zionacafetlv)

Feniger does not move his finger from the pulse, aware of the challenge and waiting patiently for the critical point where exposure creates momentum.

"We don't sell like all these culinary stars," she described, "it's something we talked about long before we went in and agreed to this casting."

Elder reserves the reservation.

"It's true that she's not a 'star' like the other names we brought up, but she's a real star in her place," he explained.

Feniger is flattered, but knows that in the end "the work is ours, and mine. I really like handicrafts, and here's something that really forces me to leave this place. I feel I was born to entertain, that it has meaning and values, "And suddenly this thing is a kind of rotation."

She says, "There is a whole thought here, to come and understand who the person who eats this food is. After all, even if you have a crazy day and you do not have time for lunch other than taking a bag or getting it from Walt, there is still some moment, and you really want it to be Go for both 'it' and 'it', that it will not just be food to consume, but something else. "

Food, and something else, and someone who thought of all the 'this' and 'this' and 'this'.

That's the whole point, no?

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