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Kandinoff House: There are zigzag restaurants

For a drink and one or two snacks this is one of the most worthwhile places there is, i.e. if you come without expectations and with the understanding that there might not be anything.

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• Kandinoff House

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• Avi Efrati

Avi Efrati

Thursday, 25 November 2021, 07:50 Updated: 07:53

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Kandinoff House, one of the most pleasant places operating here (Photo: Noam Frisman)

Kandinoff House is without a doubt one of the places with the most amazing potential here. A beautiful space with arches built like a long indoor passage, from which smaller spaces branch off. Nir Tzuk operated the Noa Bistro there for years. It was, at the time, one of the more appropriate places to come to in the Tel Aviv-Yafo sector. In recent years, the Kandinoff House has operated as a complex that combines culinary art and presents a menu of food and drink alongside rotating exhibitions.

It's not just beautiful in the house of Kandinoff. In a city where new restaurants are gradually becoming an engineered product, based on well-known formulas - as opposed to creating a source with a clear and distinctly DNA-based design, atmospheric and culinary - the Kandinoff House belongs to the good side of the equation. She, in the poet's words, is unlike any other. In terms of vibe and concept the Candinoff House is without a doubt a source creation. This can be felt as soon as you enter the place. Fun to enter, pleasant to sit and it is impossible not to feel the rest of the spirit that underlies the place. You can define it this way too: Those looking for locations for less story photography will come here. Those looking for entertainment with character, yes.

The menu, on one page, combines Mediterranean with contemporary.

It is relatively short and tight, some of its ingredients come from a private vegetable garden next to the restaurant, it has something for everyone and the level of pricing makes sense.

It is a place that can be reached for a real full meal but you can definitely sit down for a glass of wine, beer or cocktail, snack and chat.

No one is forcing you to eat a lot and everything is user friendly, in the good sense of the word.

Last week

There are full of girls here who are photographed for the story, is this considered a success?

To the full article

Pear gazpacho (Photo: Noam Frisman)

We were three hungry and our first order was

(24 shekels) alongside

(38 shekels) which on the initiative of the place came divided into three cups instead of a bowl of soup. Along with the very good sourdough bread came black garlic butter, leek jam and olive oil. This was a clear statement of the kitchen, that here not only do not drag to the banal, try to get away from it. The butter was excellent, the leek jam was very nice and the gazpacho, which we sipped in teaspoons from the glass, was really excellent. It was based on yellow tomatoes, it also had pear, zucchini and shallot, along with chili oil, its texture was velvety and smooth and its flavors were sharp, crystallized, sour to a great extent. It was an equally crushing Mediterranean opening, which very much jumped the bar of expectations from the sequel.

The following set of dishes was vegetable based:

(NIS 44),

(NIS 48) and

(48 shekels). The carpaccio portion included pickled kohlrabi sourced from the place's private vegetable garden, fennel, shallots, raisins and champagne vinaigrette. Along with the quality of the raw materials, such a dish rests on the hand in the kitchen, necessitating thin and delicate balances from which any deviation impairs the delicacy of the vegetable. It is clear that the kohlrabi itself, as a garden vegetable, was of high quality, but its miss was brutal and the champagne vinaigrette sauce was unbalanced to say the least.

The eggplant steak dish included eggplant baked in olive oil, tomato cream, tulum cheese, onion skins and pistachios. She felt more like a product of an amateur home cook and less like a chef's dish. No element and stage in it was handled and executed properly and it would have been better if it had not been submitted. In contrast, the Maggie Tomato Salad, with Maggie in three modes of treatment - fresh, roasted and dried - with purple onion, sheep brinza cheese, pine nuts and grated yoghurt stone, revealed, once again, a combination of worthy raw materials near a good, know-how to produce a balanced and balanced dish.

A story in Zig Zag? Yes, that's how it started to feel. We went on

(NIS 58), as a stopover before the two mains, and we hoped to check in.

The biscuit dish included shrimp chopped with biscuits with goat yogurt and crispy chard, alongside bruschetta with crab meat.

The bisque technique comes from the classic French cuisine.

Here they also added goat yogurt for balance and the association was more of a British or Scandinavian bar dish.

It was not bad but neither was it gourmet, delicate or sophisticated.

In the balance that was formed in this meal between such good dishes that much less, he stopped somewhere in the middle.

Shishbarak roasted eggplant (Photo: Noam Frisman)

Shishbarak roasted eggplant

(NIS 72) was main from the vegetarian section and next to it we went for an

(NIS 88) to balance some of the protein section, which was a bit lacking in our orders. Shishbarak had a roasted eggplant and ricotta filling and a yogurt sauce with dried mint and shatta butter. Most of the intentions were in this dish, which is based on a twist on the familiar and beloved Galilean Arabic dish. Only the performance was very, very lacking. The filling was out of balance, the sauce was out of balance and the general feeling was of (another) immature dish that reveals a limitation in the ability of the thinking and execution of those behind it.

We no longer so much expected the entrecote skewer but then, oddly enough, an excellent portion of meat landed on our table. 140 grams of really good meat entrecote, seared with real precision and came with excellent potatoes, a particularly successful remoulade sauce and roasted vegetables. Take this dish, add to it the Maggie tomato salad, the yellow tomato gazpacho and the bread on its toppings, and you have a set of dishes that are more fun to snack on with alcohol. Only the other side of this meal coin was positioned down and down from there.

We shared a

(NIS 48) with whipped cream, caramel, cardamom toffee, halva and kaddif. The base of the mousse was properly compacted with a distinctly distinct chocolate character but with toppings that dragged on too sweetly and failed to create a balanced flavor environment. I ordered an espresso to finish, it arrived on a tray in a nice glass, with a small glass of soda next to it. How nice that. But this is one of the worst espresso cups I have remembered in a long time. Even coffee from a homemade capsule, those Nespresso-matched ones, which are priced at less than half the original, will feel better than this coffee. This is an example of the seconds revealed throughout the entire meal: attention to detail, plenty of good intentions, joy and love on the one hand; Quite a few things are cluttered on the other hand.

So the Kandinoff House is one of the more pleasant places operating here.

It's all about character, good intentions, respect for culture and art, and an attempt to do good.

His cuisine, unfortunately, is more than a hit on the goal board and appreciable sparks of talent are mixed in with a lot of immaturity and a bit of amateurism.

For a drink and one or two snacks - without too much expectation and with the understanding that there may not be anything - this is one of the most worthwhile places there is.

For more than that, a little less.

Account: (Photo: image processing, Walla system!)

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