The Temple - Walla! Food

"Asrh Kbin Sfgniot Irdo Laolm, Tsah Ntlh reserve holy Miroslim and Ahd Cl Haolm Clo"

very logical to think that the past decade drew me to efficiently and consistently all the guilt Existing in the mind inside, and left very few of them, if any, to engage in things that do not appear in the modern parenting definition.It

also makes a lot of sense to think that writing about food is fun most of all, well, food, but also talented people who make food, and everyday made up of food - and such is Almost devoid of anxieties, mental tingles or just worry and awareness of what is going on around, because right now someone is putting more delicious food in front of your face.

Makes sense, makes a lot of sense even, and yet I am sitting in one of the most beautiful spots in Jerusalem, on one of the most pleasant mornings of winter 2021, in front of one of the most worthy women to spend such a morning with. And I am full of guilt, anxiety and tingling.

The reason, in essence, is very basic - if a holy foundation sits with me for coffee (and pastries and pastries and pastries and pastries) long and continuous, who exactly is supposed to take care of the donuts right now? Who will take care of them, make sure they meet her and her partner's meticulous standard, place them on the tray, lower them from the second floor and quiet the growing, accumulating growl coming from the Israeli audience known for its patience for hot donuts on Hanukkah?

Still, Jerusalem, and beautiful, and morning, and Keren Kadosh is not worried and refuses to feel guilty.

On the contrary, she orders tea, I relax as much as a food reporter can relax in front of her, and she herself arranges everything with a phone call with one perfect sentence, which is both a question and a teaching and a multi-tasking tick and a holiday consolation approaching: "You handle donuts, right? Good bye".

New morning

Tuscan-Parisian bakery with a Tel Aviv line at the end of the country

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Jerusalem Europe.

Holy Coffee (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

"Cafe Kadosh" is a justified Jerusalem center of pilgrimage throughout the year, which climbs to "just take the car and drive, no matter what" during Hanukkah.

I am not familiar with the laws of the three habits. Not in times and not in timings, neither in customs nor in habits. But it is very easy to determine that "Holy Coffee" is a justified Jerusalem center of pilgrimage throughout the year, which climbs during Hanukkah to the level of "just take the car and drive, no matter what."

The place was established in 1967 by Meir Kadosh, skipped elegantly into the hands of his son Itzik, and for the past 16 years has been forging the fire of his and Keren, his partner's internal dialogue. And that's a piece of fire.

Kadosh recalls the starting point, including restoring her entry weight ("I was on obese diets all the time then, and Itzik told me that from that moment on I can stop worrying about it," she laughs), and manages to smile even when she describes intense and dramatic arguments, starting with the name that accompanies dessert The mythological of the place ("The Bride from Istanbul" of course. She won of course), for in the best engineering position for donuts ("on the head", as she defined it. .

"We are lovingly raising four sons and the 'saint,'" she wrote years ago.

This love is evident, and I say this not only because Itzik sat at the table next to me all this time, but mainly because I looked into her eyes, and from time to time I seemed to be able to see inside.

A Jerusalem legend

The donuts of a holy foundation

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"Impossible with you, can not do without it": Keren and Itzik's wedding anniversary

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"Jerusalem is a city that feels and responds very quickly to such events, but also knows how to recover from them very quickly."

This is a typical weekday morning, and what seems to me in proportion to my eyes to be busy, is defined by a saint as "calm" coming from "weak." Just two days after the stabbing attack that led to Eli Kay's death in the capital's capital, Kadosh knows how to draw the boundaries of the tragic ritual, and outline proportions of her own.

"Obviously you feel it, such events greatly affect business, and rightly so," she described, "I hear news and know that this day is gone, for all of us. Jerusalem is a city that feels and responds very quickly to such events, but also knows how to recover from them very quickly."

This recovery is taking place outside the narrow doors of the narrow cafe. The donuts are due out soon (as mentioned, at this point in the conversation this was more optimistic hope than absolute certainty), but the crowd is already buzzing.

Two young clients who have "come especially to the donuts" almost lose themselves in the light of reality, and are seriously considering waiting half an hour and then for their next meeting.

They make excuses with the help of a battered croissant, which promises chocolate and sustains even more chocolate, but the look on their faces makes it clear that even chocolate will not be able to really comfort, a few days before the first candle.

Comfort on any other day of the year.

Chocolate croissant from "Holy Coffee" (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

As the sentence goes down the first tray finally comes down, and all the words of a saint take shape, and color, and taste

The small confectionery on the second floor puts out no less than 5,000-6,000 donuts during the holidays, and about 1,000 during the build-up week ahead of it, which feeds a great many customers who are not outstanding satisfaction-seekers. I say "confectionery", and equally can say "a tiny ballet studio that requires spiraling dance steps from anyone who dares to climb it". And yet, as a sentence descends the first tray, and all the words of a saint take shape, and color, and taste.

The precious metal surface is led from the stairs to the display case and stops for a slight traffic detour in the photogenic Jerusalem sun. It carries 56 precious stones (symbolic, but also a bit verbal, still 18 shekels per unit, although these are probably the 18 most justified shekels Israelis can spend on Hanukkah, donuts or non-donuts), half with purple cassis cream and half with yellow pineapple cream, on stage Schmidt is tagged in my head as a "Lakers configuration," though in a much more winning version than the current failure which is Hollywood basketball.

And yes, they are "upside down".

It started from a shortage of space (20 units on a tray in its normal configuration, or 56 in a vertical configuration, consider the multiplications), and rolled very quickly to the realization that this is the right way to eat a donut.

"Itzik thought it was ugly, but he got used to it," Keren recalls, "I think it's best to eat it like that, you dive in, and it's a lot of fun."

Think pita, but only if pita could hold a sweet bite of Europe, without leaking on clothes.

The silver tray.

The donuts of "Holy Coffee"

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For a moment she was here, and a second later she was eliminated, leaving behind incriminating evidence of sugarcane and countless competitors who forgot the donut on the way to Instagram

Despite what it makes sense to think, a saint is waiting for Hanukkah with a mixture of infectious-excitement-enthusiasm-childishness. It's not only the donuts themselves ("I eat at least five every day, and these are just the stuffed ones"), but also the total fulfillment of all her professional fantasies wherever they are. Or in other words - confectionery out of nothing, with the special creams, marmalades and candies, caramel and marshmallows and caramelized popcorn ready.

"I do everything myself," she explained, "there's nothing here that we bring in from the outside. Everything up. I have no place here on a daily basis to sell sweets, and this is my chance. It's so much fun."

These words were translated about a year ago into the book "The Donuts of a Saint", a kind of comprehensive guide that does start with donuts, but ends with everything around them, and above them. More immediately, they translate into two fresh donuts on a plate. The offering reveals a very airy dough that carries on its back a delicate cream, almost implicit, but with a flavor that is the real thing. Not "near" and not "Reminiscent of "," not "essence" and not "box".

The cassis is sour, the pineapple holds an exotic passport, the marmalade bites and the marshmallow is surrendered.

For a moment she was here, right in the palm of her hand, and a second later she was eliminated, leaving behind incriminating evidence of sugarcane and countless competitors who forgot the donut on the way to Story.

Not "near" and not "reminiscent of".

The donuts of "Holy Coffee" (Photo: Assaf Carla)

"When you taste sweet, you do not remember the taste. Everything in the end, after three or four bites, comes to mind."

Apart from these two, Kadosh's donut collection also includes the "Old City" (halva, pistachio, sesame and caramel), "casta" (caramelized pecans, chestnut patisserie, coffee cream and hazelnut cream), "Abu Dhabi" (dates and date cream, Nougat and edible yellow leaves), a fried croissant donut (patisserie cream, English cream, caramel and toffee) and dozens of other variations, most of which drive on the spot and set off almost spontaneously.

The selection is spectacular, but the common denominator is easy to spot. "I love spinach, but I do not have time to fry spinach," said Kadosh, "so every now and then I catch, fry and snatch. "The whole idea is a donut and jam, isn't it?"

Almost as proof, this week saint donuts tasted "with amounts of jam you ask why you're so generous. It's disproportionate."

She knows the customer "sits and says 'do not skimp on me' and 'do not knock me', but you can not leave such an amount of jam, which is always-always too sweet. When you taste sweet, you do not remember the taste. Everything in the end, after three "Four bites, comes to mind because it's too sweet. That's why we said we would go for all kinds of fruit-flavored creams, and instead of jam we put marmalade."

Sounds simple, until you get up and try to put a hand through the crowd and get another one.

The complete guide.

The Donut Book of "Holy Coffee"

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Kadosh Coffee (@keren__kadosh)

I was told - 'What, can you compare the food of Jerusalem to that of Tel Aviv?'

Yes, and she's better.

Here there are people and authenticity and a soul that is not there

Kadosh jumps from topic to topic - Jerusalem and Budapest, Vienna and Paris, Moshe Leon, Nir Barkat and the future of the Mahane Yehuda market. She cuts west, making sure to stay up to date in the Tel Aviv food world and constantly returning to the mother base (no, "there will be no saint outside of Jerusalem, no").

"Now the municipality loves me, but there were times when it was not," she recalled, "We came and said years ago that we want culinary tourism. Enough, stop showing the Western Wall. The Western Wall exists, people know it is here and know how to reach it. Years we fought with the municipality. Today Jerusalem is Culinary city. I was told - 'What, can you compare the food of Jerusalem to that of Tel Aviv?' "Yes, and it's better. There are people and authenticity and a soul that is not there."

This local-patriotism ends, and it lands in its natural starting point.

In other words, a constant paragon of Jerusalem colleagues and other young bakers from around the country - Alexander and Pop & Pop, Idan Hadad and Alon Shavu, "Fragrances of Life" in Netivot in the south, Aviela in Ashdod and Materlo in the north.

"With everything here in the country, I walk around abroad proud.

It's an area that was closed and locked, and from the moment it opened up - it's crazy.

There are amazing talents here, "she shared.

the real thing.

Knafa Donut of "Holy Coffee" (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

The expansion plan for "Holy Coffee" is expected to be launched soon. "Everything will be broken, today there is no shopping experience here. As much as I love the place and the overcrowding, it can no longer contain. People get upset, and I understand them," she said. "He's right. No matter how many hours I stand on my feet and produce, he hates me even before he walks in the door."

I raise an eyebrow skeptically, but she describes cowards absorbing curses ("I tell them I forge them for life, because whoever works here can do anything") and shifts that end almost violently, and already imagines a large and spacious space that will try to quiet the bubble a little.

These renovations will mark - and perhaps this is only my optimism - also her and Itzik's long vacation, which will calm down a bit the activity in the confectionery, and the digital workshops that the two are conducting.

"Things today will not come out if they did not pass me or him. It's a bit screwed up because it does not leave us alive," she described.

How many non-lives are these exactly?

He works from four in the morning until midnight, she goes out in the afternoon to be with the kids and goes back to lighting candles.

Happy holiday, as they say.

In her few free moments, Kadosh dreams of a "Jerusalem" food truck with two dishes and one dessert, one that travels around the country and does not stop for a moment.

It's a kind of rolling fantasy that is not really taken seriously, but it is very worthwhile for it to be taken seriously, for its own good, and for the benefit of us all.

Until that happens - the truck and the renovations and the vacation - she will look out over everything upstairs, fry, and smile.