Marsaba Holiday: The monastery in the Judean Desert that attracts thousands of Israelis

Every December, the Judean Desert wakes up to the hustle and bustle of hikers, who come to watch the hundreds of candles flickering in the rocks of the rock that create a mystical atmosphere of light and darkness.

We visited, got excited and checked out what exactly attracts thousands of Israelis to Mr. Saba Monastery in the middle of the night

Rami Gilboa

17/12/2021

Friday, 17 December 2021, 00:00

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What has attracted thousands of Israelis in recent years to get out of the house on one of the cold nights of mid-December, and romp for hours in a jeep to see candles lit in the Judean Desert?

It is not clear, but the candle lighting ceremony at Mr. Saba Monastery, which marks the day of the monastery's founder's death about 1,500 years ago, has become one of the most talked about excursions.

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To the full article

Became an Israeli attraction.

Marsaba Monastery (Photo: ShutterStock, Yevgenia Gorbulsky)

Who are you Sabas?

Sabas was born into a Christian family in Cappadocia, Asia Minor (now Turkey) in the fifth century AD. He grew up in a monastery and became a brilliant student and at the age of 18 made an aliyah trip to Jerusalem and became a student of the important monk Othymius. With the death of the latter, Sabas went to a cave in the desert to seclude himself and live an ascetic life as was the custom of monks in the Byzantine period. Sabas worked for about 50 years to establish missions and monasteries in the Land of Israel and is credited with a series of miracles such as healing the sick, rain, prophecy and more, which gave him students and successors who still live in the Greek Orthodox monastery. One of them was Cyril of Scythopolis who wrote his experiences and from him we know of Sabas, who passed away on December 5, 532 (aged 93).

And since then, and every December, the monks in a monastery built on a cliff on the slope of the Kidron River in Area C, hold a ceremony in his memory and several dozen monks and relatives are present.

At the end of the prayer, hundreds of candles are lit in solitary niches and rock niches, which dot the towering cliff in front of the monastery;

It's not easy to get there, but the magical sight is worth the effort.

Dozens of jeeps are waiting for tonight to come down, yesterday (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa system)

The monastery in the evening (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa)

Equip with warm clothes, flashlights and a coffee thermos

Despite the romantic overture, you will not be there alone;

Crowds of visitors come to the lookout with SUVs, cyclists, hikers, ATV drivers and motorcyclists.

All of these create traffic jams that require a lot of patience, as expected of those who come to identify with the mysterious monks.

The ceremony was held this year on the nights of December 16, 17 and 18 and the truth is that last night (Thursday) fewer visitors came than usual;

Tonight and tomorrow are expected to be more crowded.

We therefore recommend to the brave of heart to wrap themselves in warm clothes, equip themselves with flashlights and a coffee thermos, and set off.

To get close to the monastery you need a 4X4 vehicle, with minimal space capabilities;

A 4X4 crossover will be able to reach the east bank of the Kidron River, from where you can walk to the other side of the gorge.

To get to the monastery itself you already need a real SUV, and even more patience - traffic jams are guaranteed, deep into the night.

We recruited a Toyota Land Cruiser for the mission that combines ride comfort and pampering, with extremely high off-road capability.

On the way to the monastery there are no offense challenges but you never know, what might develop on a rainy winter night.

We will note right now that you do not have to go out into the desert independently;

Tour guides lead small groups to the lighting event, search the internet.

Dozens of candles are lit between the cliff niches (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa system)

Crowds of visitors come to the lookout with SUVs (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa system)

Candle In The Wind

When Elton John sang to Princess Diana the hit "Candles in the Wind" he did not think of the fierce storms that blew in the channel of the Kidron Valley, but we felt the gusts of wind well. We reached the eastern side of the gorge at last light, and enjoyed an impressive view of the ancient monastery. There were hundreds of visitors around us and after a while we started walking to the bottom of the gorge, to get in front of the burning candles. As we walk, the winter sun sets, scattering soft light over the wild cliffs of the Kidron Valley. The color of the sky changed from moment to moment, the monastery grew darker, the visitors marched in uncharacteristic silence. It seems that the mystical atmosphere has taken over the vociferous Israeli character at times.

Marsaba Monastery is worth a thorough visit in itself, but during the candle lighting ceremony it is closed to visitors - today we will have to make do with the experience of candles flickering in the wind.

Arrival from Road # 1 via Nabi Musa Road.

Turn right according to the blue arrow, the split to the observation deck is marked with a red arrow.

The walking path is marked in yellow (Photo: image processing, screenshot)

We enjoyed an impressive view of the ancient monastery (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa system)

How to get to Marsaba Monastery?

The monastery is located on the edge of Area A, which is forbidden for Israelis to enter, and therefore, it is not possible to reach it from the west (Kfar Ovadia, Bethlehem). The organized tours depart from the gas station in the Mishor Adumim, Nabi Musa Mosque, or other points. Those who want to watch the lighting of the candles should reach the road that stretches along the Hyrcania Valley, about 12.8 kilometers east of Ma'ale Adumim. Type in 'Wise Nabi Musa', and you're there.

From here you have to use a topographic trail marking map, or navigation software like 'Cloud Pillar' or 'Uproad' (keep in mind that there is no cellular reception near the monastery!) Drive south on the rutted asphalt road; Pass the Nabi Musa Mosque (an interesting site in itself), pass over the Og River (an excellent site for observing floods). After about 13 kilometers, turn right (west) on the path marked in blue.

Progress west on the blue trail for about 4.7 miles, until the split of a red-marked trail; The blue trail is comfortable and passable for traffic. The Land Cruiser passed lightly over the blue trail, as did non-sporty 4X4 Jeeps (Forester and XV, Duster, etc.). The main obstacle in your way will be dozens of SUVs, jeeps, ATVs, racers and cyclists - be patient, hurry from the devil. Do not try to shorten and get off the trail, it is forbidden and extremely dangerous, certainly at night and with a high chance of rain.

Those who want to get right to the foot of the monastery will continue northwest on the blue trail (about that below).

4X4 jeeps will turn left on the red trail, which leads southwest to the lookout in front of Marsaba Monastery.

The length of the red trail is about 2 miles and is quite bumpy;

This is not a problem for SUVs, but requires careful and patient driving.

At the end of the trail you will come across hundreds of vehicles parked there since the late afternoon hours.

Consider that you want to get to the place before sunset.

Sabas operated in the area in the 6th-5th century AD (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa)

One of dozens of candles lit by the monks of the monastery on the occasion of the death of their saint (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa)

The observation is exciting and well worth the effort

From the 'balcony' to which you have arrived there is a wonderful view to the west, of the monastery and the desert landscape around it. Then descend on foot to the deep channel of the Kidron River; The walking trail starts at the southern end of the terrace area (marked in yellow on the attached map). The march may take up to half an hour, including close observation of the candles. Walk down among the lit candles, cross a bridge and climb to watch the candles, on the western side of the Kidron Channel. Walking sticks can be used, the observation is exciting and worth the effort. Take some time to enjoy the spectacle, though the cold will not allow you to linger long at the foot of the monastery. Then get back to the vehicle and from there, in the traffic jams home. Drive carefully.

If you have a Land Cruiser or other rugged 4X4, you do not have to walk to the bottom of the channel. Pass the red trail, and continue with the blue in a northwesterly direction. The blue trail crosses the Kidron Canal, winds left and descends south on the west bank of the creek. A drive of about two kilometers will bring you to the entrance of the monastery. The problem is - you're not alone, and you'll have a hard time finding parking. On the other hand, you will save on walking, you will be pampered in the heated vehicle, it is comfortable and cozy. The traffic jams on the way back will be more cruel, your consideration which way to choose.

Another option suitable for skilled jeeps is to reach a black marked path leading south from the village of Kedar, south of the Upper Red. This is a more challenging route that requires traveling with at least two SUVs, preferably with weapons and a good knowledge of the area - you really do not want to gossip there, on the outskirts of Palestinian territory. I preferred to get through the blue trail coming out of the Hyrcanian Valley, it seemed unnecessary to me to get from the northern point.

Get out at noon relatively early, this will allow you to get organized during daylight hours (Photo: Walla !, Rami Gilboa system)

Commandments do and do not do

Visiting the candle ceremony is an experience worth striving for; It is a religious mystical event that takes you to spiritual realms, the kind of experiences for which people fly to distant continents. Equip yourself with commitment and patience, and come back with a great and unique experience. On the days of lighting, you will not be alone in the field, but it is worth remembering a few important points that will give you a complete and satisfying experience:

• Tourism

• Excursions in the country

• Excursions in the south

Tags

• Yehuda desert

• Jeep Tour

• monastery