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Stuffed Festival, Kegel Festival: Food of yesteryear in today's pop-up

It's not easy to fall on a real winter day in Israel, so let's at least eat as if the rain washes everything away

Yaniv Granot

19/12/2021

Sunday, 19 December 2021, 09:00 Updated: 09:06

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Excessive definition.

Stuffed with "Smells and Tastes" (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

If there are professionals who are interested in documenting and refining the Israeli winter experience, one of the last weekends in my private kitchen will do the job quite efficiently.

what started as a fountain talk at Walla! On onion soup, Brior continued in front of onion soup under each fresh feed, indeed ending in onion soup. Road course were disproportionate hours of Kirmol medium onions Mount disappeared into itself, along with the winter weather to dissipate, and he too disappeared into himself as he neared the weekend.

So, fantasy Tuesday on a rainy Parisian replaced by a Middle Eastern haze Of Friday, and a steaming bowl of some soup and a lot of Gruyere was finally sipped in a short shirt, while it could easily also function as a Bikram Yoga workshop.Real Europe.

Since a few days have passed, enough for us to forget the failing episode and re-light fountain talks on slippers, comfort and winter food, preferably in deliveries and even more preferably without a sweat workshop in the kitchen.

According to the Meteorological Service, in the last thirty years most Israelis have needed umbrellas for a maximum of 25 days a year, but it is always possible to hope, and perhaps even schedule.

Two new pop-ups are trying to do just that right now, and are also succeeding.

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A real gift.

Stuffed chicken of "smells and tastes" (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

The old "Smells and Tastes" in Ramat Hasharon (and also its newer branch in Netanya) is not exactly a restaurant and far from being a street food stand, but it is difficult to think of a "place of food" that is more a place of food than it is.

Long years of effective response to a massive and hungry crowd have sharpened the menu here, but left the most distinct advantage of the place - everyone will find something here, including the one who does not know exactly what he wants to eat now.

The answer to this question, by the way, is stuffed.

He wants stuffed.

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Uncompromising attrition.

Lettuce leaves stuffed with "aromas and flavors"

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The chicken comes packaged in a gift wrap, justifying this move almost immediately

The Iraqi roots trip of Limor Oren and Oded Shaharbani (and of Farhiya his mother) warmed our ovens in the winter of last year, and this time this culinary triangle chose to go for what was defined here as a "stuffed festival". This definition, you will immediately understand, is excessive.

The special menu (NIS 49-89 per kg), which will be offered on Thursday-Friday of December-January in addition to everything that goes on here in the routine, includes a zucchini souffle stuffed with chicken, ginger and water chestnuts (from the home muffin worlds, with an Asian chicken core ), Beets stuffed with millet, smoked goose, blush and raisins (dramatic in colors, milder on the palate, and delicious-tasty) and also grated in the form of lettuce leaves stuffed with burgul and dried fruit, in a bitter-sweet tamarind sauce, which took the familiar cabbage, lightened it slightly, without Compromise on defeat.

What more?

Two impressive versions of chicken, that's more.

The first is as fillets stuffed with chicken liver and dried fruit, which at first slightly tweaked the wedding dishes from time to time, but then jumped from this world of unfortunate images to 2022, with very juicy, very wintry and very tasty chunks that danced beautifully with the liver and spices.

The second dish was the main-event, in the form of a whole chicken (available by pre-order), boneless, stuffed with chicken puree and a mixture of spinach, black strawberry and chestnut.

It comes packaged in a gift wrap, and almost immediately justifies this move, with successful texture games and a spoon that takes a little bit of everything out of its mouth, but leaves behind a lot of everything.

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Indeed a festival.

Stuffed with "Smells and Tastes" (Photo: Gil Aviram)

You can take this thing to personal plates, or do what any sane person would do while watching it - knees bent, back tilted, big spoon

Another star is defined here as a "stuffed cake" (also pre-ordered), but it makes more sense to call it by its name - a pot of a house, if your house knows how to roll like this, and season like this, and cook like this. Inside you will find layers upon layers of vegetables, including onions, tomatoes, carrots and chard leaves, stuffed with rice and vegetables, soaked in a sour-sweet sauce and baked like a stew, over low heat, and throughout the night.

The result melts all the vegetables into one happy stew, but leaves each one with enough space to demonstrate an independent presence. You can take from this thing to personal plates, or do what any sane person would do while watching it - knees bent, back tilted, big spoon.

Finally, put together in "Smells and Flavors" a dessert, or a type of dessert - chestnut pumpkin filled with egg whipped cream and vanilla pudding, full of cinnamon flavors and a gentle-delicate sweetness. It begins, as expected, with a skeptical raise of an eyebrow, and ends, also as expected, as a memory of an American winter and a burning fireplace that you did not know you had experienced.

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The ancestor of comfort food.

Kegel of Teller Bakery and the Port Market (Photo: Shani Brill)

The other half of this culinary winter flirtation is pop-up kegel, the literal bread that will continue to look weird even after the pop-up end date itself, apparently, but feels less and less weird while tasting.

Is the last sentence possible at all in terms of space-time ratio?

Doubt.

Is he realistic in the plot axis that is our life?

It seems so.

Does it matter at all?

There is no reason to think so.

This is a collaboration between the Tel Aviv Port Market and Daniela Abramson and the Jerusalem "Teller" bakery, which places the ancestor of the Jewish-Ashkenazi comfort-food ancestor.

The timing is challenging in this case as well (from last weekend, and for a month, on Thursdays and Fridays), but the logistics are relatively simple - five different types of Kegel pastries, which are available both as individual portions (NIS 23) and by weight (NIS 8 per 100 grams). Both take home and eat on the spot.

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On Route 1, without traffic jams: the Kegel of Teller Bakery and the Port Market

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These are big words to describe pop-up and street food, but they accompany this defeat from the box to the mouth in subtitles of excitement

The menu includes a classic kegel, rich in cinnamon and black pepper, a spicy kegel with even more black pepper, a kegel of apples and raisins, a kegel and cheese that drifted more towards the pie, and a kegel with dark chocolate chips and whipped cream, which will serve as a real dessert.

This magnificent creation - in fact, no more noodles and spirit, but who really needs more?

- Corresponds well with many local initiatives that have awakened the roots of glorious Jewish cuisine from its light slumber, including the "Food" project of the Jewish People's Museum, and the establishment of "Asif" in the heart of Tel Aviv.

These are big words to describe pop-up and street food, but they accompany this bite from the box to the mouth in subtitles of excitement.

The five versions of the dish, rightly appropriated by Jerusalem but also traditionally starring in Bnei Brak, for example, offer a wide enough range for everyone, including the more neutral variation, and the one that actually maintains Jewish hope for crispy apple pie.

Even the chocolate one manages to jump over the relatively high hurdle of gimmicks, do its thing, and leave behind one small hope - more such intercity crossings, and more pop-ups that know how to drive on Route 1 without getting stuck in traffic.

Port Market, Hangar 12, Tel Aviv Port

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