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Lei Fu: The Asian dumpling stand we always wanted here

The twenty minutes from the moment the invitation goes out are both very long, and very happy

Yaniv Granot

02/01/2022

Sunday, 02 January 2022, 06:50 Updated: 06:51

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There is a chance.

Lei Fu (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

A manager, two waitresses and a standard-sized cart approached our table with the expression and choreography of diplomatic reconciliation delegations in Geneva. Everyone's face, without exception, was masked long before it was elementary, but the eyes radiated seriousness, so we fell silent.

It was the absolute end of another sumptuous meal at Din Tai Fung's Bangkok branch, so of course we were curious. At least a quarter of an hour had passed since the table was completely cleared of mountains of evaporation baskets and our biggest challenge was to roll out through the cash register, but the crew approached, placed the cart at an escape-preventing angle, and placed another steamer in the center of the frame.

The manager clasped his hands (covered with gloves of course), lifted the lid, and revealed a single pouch.

one.

He was handsome, on the verge of sexy, but still raised questions, not to mention associations from movies that start with Sam fabrics and end with blood.

"In one of your dishes we felt that the dough of one of the dumplings was not made as we would like, so we replaced it for you," he explained as he bowed, shook, smiled and turned around, "We apologize."

One.

one.

Sorry.

The Taiwanese dumpling empire is closing these days with a jubilee of such service and such food that makes you, each in turn, cry happy when you already manage to eat at it, and cry sadly every time you finish and have to return to Israel.

So, a few weeks before the world started closing in on masks as personal steaming baskets, we innocently said we would be back soon, and wondered bitterly, and for the time being who knows how many, when there will already be worthy dim sums here.

Two years have passed, and at least half of those aspirations have a realistic chance of materializing.

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A lot of credit I started.

Lei Fu

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The new "Lei Fu" on Bograshov Street in Tel Aviv speaks cosmopolitan by its very nature - the Israeli environment with an appeal of excavations and soot, the French street strictly, the Chinese staff, the tools from Shanghai and the ambition, as I understand it at least, is to operate in a world without labels and borders.

It starts with the definition of the place itself - written "restaurant" but can certainly also function as a street food stand, as a quick lunch option, or as a light evening entertainment.

There are two menus here - for dumplings and everything that is not dumplings - and things are still fluid because of the meager mileage, but the intentions, seriousness and language provide quite a bit of initial credit.

And yes, the dumplings too.

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Ideal dough.

Shai Mai of Lei Fu (Photo: Dror Einav)

We focused on dumplings, and took advantage of the modular pricing that allows you to taste a few units of everything without having to remember too much pain at Eastern prices

The more magnetizing menu offers six options (steamed dough stuffed with mushrooms, beef-carrots-onions, beef-vegetables-bean noodles, chicken-vegetables, chicken-shrimp-vegetables, chicken-vegetables-bean noodles) three options shao mai (steamed dumplings Open at the top), and also Xiao Geo (steamed dumplings from rice dough scooped with shrimp).

There are also fried chicken or beef-based waffles, intriguing bun rolls, an expanding soup section correlated with lowering temperatures, and another Asian menu as mentioned, but we focused on dumplings, and took advantage of the modular pricing that allows you to taste a few units of everything without remembering too much pain At Eastern prices.

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A meal in itself.

Lei Fu's One Ton Soup (Photo: Dror Einav)

By this point it was already enough, but as with any proper dumpling meal, no one was going to stop

The first bites were a pair of large beef came with bean noodles and vegetables (37 shekels).

The dough was great, located right at the seam between too thin and too thick.

That is - perfect.

The filling is straight, in doses and relativity, in the taste and juiciness derived from the little sauce that was also put inside.

This is not the mythical end-dumpling of the East, but it is close.

close enough.

Crispy Bow is another version of dumplings (34 shekels per pair), a kind of hybrid between the bow and gyoza, half steamed and half seared, also dipped in Lei Fu sauce, and taken from there to the mouth waiting impatiently.

One side soft, the other side crispy, thoughts of Sambusk and Chiborki landing close and delicious.

Shaw Mai beef with vegetables (34 shekels for a quartet) continued the concert, with an ideal dough, bite-flexible-delicious, and a noticeable but non-heavy meat filling.

By this point it was already enough, but as with any proper dumpling meal, no one was going to stop.

A six-ton ​​fried one, stuffed with chicken (NIS 36), provided the fried crab and above.

There were crispy edges, a filling that was not destroyed by the heat, and a deceptive feeling of snacking, when in fact it was clear that it was a flight east.

All this was closed by soup - one ton of beef, 56 shekels - which is a legitimate and satisfying option as a whole meal.

The base is chicken soup, into which noodles, vegetables, greens and quite a few dumplings dive, this time in a soft version.

It is a great soup, which also happens to function as a physiological and mental protector against winter.

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Steamed, seared, delicious.

Crispy came from Lei Fu

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The local history of Echo Sam is replete with trials, failures, battles and wars.

It included some excellent and legitimate options for the Ivy charm, but very little survival and even less consistency.

"Lei Fu" speaks differently, is managed differently, feels a little differently.

When I ordered the dumplings I was asked to wait 20 minutes for them to be ready.

When I asked, I was told they were ready from scratch at the moment of ordering.

When I made that movement with the eyes and the roll and the eyebrows and the lift, they let me in.

There, in a small space that is supposed to expand really soon (the nearby stall has already been rented, and the optimistic talk does not stop there), I saw dough open, and filling inserted, and evaporation set off.

For anyone who remembers empires and dumplings that made everything frozen and did not understand why the Israelis do not bite, these were 20 long minutes, but also happy.

Very happy.

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• Dim Sum

• Ban

• Sushi

• Noodles

• Dumplings

• Gyoza