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Not every reality show host is a chef, but Oren Asido is one of the equals who grew up here - Walla! Food

2022-01-06T04:13:37.723Z


Avi Efrati, Walla's restaurant critic, arrives at Oren Asido's new OLE restaurant, what did he eat and what did he think? Enter the full review >>


Not every Realty graduate is a chef, but Oren Asido is one of the equals who grew up here

The meal at Ola marks Oren Asido as a true promise.

Completely ripe?

This is not the case, but one can certainly assume that his future is still ahead of him

Avi Efrati

06/01/2022

Thursday, 06 January 2022, 05:55 Updated: 06:06

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Ola by Oido Asido, meticulous with a measure of nonchalant (Photo: Itiel Zion)

Oren Asido was perceived as a great talent after winning the third season of "Chef Games" and then leading the Poppa restaurant (along with Yoni Saada). The restaurant did not really rise and Asido, it seems, began to lose momentum. After about a year, Asido finished his term in Popa and now a new restaurant is coming under his leadership: Ole.



When you enter the gates of the new restaurant in Neve Tzedek on your way through Jaffa, next to the Selena Hotel, the outer space with the closing of winter radiates a degree of generosity. When it's less cold and rainy it might be fun there, at the moment trivial. The inner space is already a completely different story. Its contemporary design connects meticulously with a measure of nonchalant. It has a large inviting drinks bar and another bar, overlooking the open kitchen. As soon as you enter you feel that this is not another populist place that has come to rise on one wave or another but a restaurant that takes itself seriously.


This feeling is reinforced when the menu arrives. And any experienced eye will easily notice that here they do culinary, not engrave.



The waitress' build-up, which talks about food that reflects the stations of the chef's life or something, is ridiculous given the young age of the person holding the kitchen wheel, which is a bit unnecessary.

One can completely settle for the essence of Asido's cuisine, which notices its contours even before reaching the first bite: a creative contemporary adaptation, which mixes traditional and modern techniques, to Moroccan folk cuisine.

Last week

Delicious, reasonably priced and with sparks of character

To the full article

Harira soup with mussels, completely exit (Photo: Itiel Zion)

Quite a few dishes looked inviting and we went for the opening end of one dish from the opening section -

roots with shanklish

(NIS 69) and two starters:

pickled shrimp bruschetta

(NIS 69) and

harira with mussels

(NIS 78).



The roots portion included beets, kohlrabi, turnips and radishes in the oven with argan oil, locally made shanklish cheese, grape honey and fresh hyssop. There is no winter dish more correct for now than roots in the oven, and each one was made flawlessly. Argan oil gave a spin, the fresh hyssop stung right and the shanklish was fine, but everything together went well but not excellent. Something worked there only partially in balances.



The shrimp bruschetta had burnt arisa, peppers and stone.

It was somewhat spicy, and its total flavor was a right balance, except that the shrimp were quite lost in the strong and sweeping flavors.

They did not interfere at all.

But their presence almost provided a background, unlike a character.

Still, an absolutely delicious dish.



Harira soup with mussels is totally an exit.

The Moroccan soup named after it due to its silky texture can be vegetarian or meaty, but with mussels?

We have not yet encountered this.

The soup had chickpeas, lentils, noodles and even tehini.

The latter was meant to add richness but felt a bit redundant.

The mussels themselves rested in the middle of the small bowl, were high quality and well handled.

Do not close on it that mussels are meant to pierce and pierce mussels.

It felt like Asido's soprano moment, which was harmless at all, did not undermine the basics of logical cuisine and was executed flawlessly - but also not sure there was a casting emerald.

Speyer Reeves, this is exactly how a contemporary Mediterranean bistro dish should look and feel (Photo: Itiel Zion)

We continued with two mains:

noodles with shredded fish

(NIS 97) and

spear ribs lamb with hyssop chimichurri

(NIS 104). The fish portion included homemade egg noodles, fish stock with arisa and disassembled sea bass. This is a dish that is a clear correspondence with Harima. The fish axis with the harissa was reminiscent in color and texture of Harima and was full of power, it seemed a little too much. Half a ton could be lowered in intensity. It is perhaps less than a typical domestic boycott. It's also much more meticulous and immersive, but it's a little too strong in the parameters of a gourmet modern kitchen. Besides, the fish itself was pretty boring. This was the least good dish at the meal.



The Spear Reeves had a generous portion of meat, with a clear but not excessive sweetness in the glaze above. The spear ribs were impeccably made and had softness in them. Hyssop chimichurri potatoes well balanced the sweetness. Not a technically and mentally complex dish, but this is exactly how a contemporary Mediterranean bistro dish should look and feel. Beauty. We



shared two desserts:

strawberry coli with pistachio crumble

(42) and

milk and return cream with yogurt crumble, meringue and coriander seed ice cream

(54 shekels). The first dessert was very mediocre. First of all because the strawberry voices suffered from excessive sweetness. Also the rosetta sorbet that came alongside the fruit and the pistachio crumble was reasonable and nothing more. Instead of a subdued freshness, this dessert has taken on an extra sweet twist.



In contrast, none of the other dessert ingredients suffered from a balancing problem.

They were all restrained and not too sweet.

The sweet, sour and aromatic worked well together and the whole dessert, which could easily have fallen into a mess that came from an excess of ingredients, was well organized, beautiful, non-standard and completely delicious on the palate.

Oren Asido, a promise of truth that one must very much hope will come true (Photo: Itiel Zion)

The frequent use of the term "chef" here produces a clear contempt for it.

Not every talented cook who gets a restaurant is a chef.

A cook needs to feed a significant mass of people for a significant amount of time to honestly earn his definition as such.

Not every graduate of a reality-food program is a chef and not everyone who has served as a chef for a year and a half is a chef.

Along with the mileage, which is a necessary condition but not necessarily enough, a clear professional presence in the kitchen is also required - with a worldview, with a clear imprint, the ability to manage a team and meticulousness in the raw materials and execution.



Is Oren Asido a chef? Of all the young cooks whose work we were exposed to in the post-Corona days, the acidity of this meal proves that it is without a doubt one of the most equal. He masters a wide variety of techniques, most of which he also performs flawlessly. There is a lot of passion in his food and one should be blind or just plain deaf to miss the libido present in the kitchen. For all these and more, he deserves full appreciation. Is undoubtedly a force that will be fascinating to follow in its development. Completely ripe? That is, no. We received "Grandma's Moroccan cuisine (Aziza) with modern techniques" twenty years ago from one of the greatest talents who grew up here: Rafi Cohen, in Raphael. The food at Raphael at its best was good and due to that it is currently served in Ola and the current mention of Cohen fills the heart with lots of longing and pain.



Although most of the food at Ola tended to the positive pole we were nevertheless given a variation of the perpetual parade of dishes in contemporary Tel Aviv cuisine, with a slightly childish and unregulated enthusiasm.

What was most lacking in this meal was an independent, clear and distinct voice, one that would provide a clear characterization of the identity of the doer in the craft.

Asido is not there yet.

It's even before him.

Since one cannot be mistaken for his mass of talent and bubbling energy accumulations, one can certainly assume that his future is still ahead of him.

It will be more fascinating to follow him.

A promise of truth, which we must very much hope will come true.



Ola (OLÉ), Hatad Trail 5, Tel Aviv-Yafo, 073-333-9323

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Source: walla

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