Adherent volumes?
Abolished.
Suits that constrict the body?
Anachronistic.
Men's tailoring has been evolving
for several seasons: first the encounter with streetwear, then the passion for sportswear (with sneakers that match the suits), now the pandemic that has pushed everyone
in search of comfort
and an
'effortless' elegance (effortlessly)
. Here for autumn-winter 2022-23 the silhouettes of tailoring are 'unconventional': they soften, go beyond the concept of tight-fitting and constricting volumes to give breath to the body, always protecting it in a soft shell of warmth. And more often than not they are designed to be worn by him and her, embracing the great genderless trend here too. Some brands focus on contemporary themes and colors, others more classic play with the memory of vintage sartorial shapes, but without a precise historical reference.
This is how at Pitti Uomo 101, (11-13 January Fortezza da Basso in Florence), companies interpret the wishes of consumers from all over the world. The path is divided into three areas that tell the different souls of men's fashion:
the classic
in the most innovative and contemporary versions (the Futuro Maschile area moves to the attic floor), then
outdoor and streetwear, and finally the research brands (here the fourth edition of
Sustainable Style
is staged
, focused on the themes of sustainability and innovation) . Among the novelties there is the
Knt laboratory, acronym of Kiton New Textures, the
brand founded by the twins Mariano and Walter De Matteis, third generation of the Kiton group family. The brand offers tailored suits but with an effortless touch: sporty shirt-jackets and almost gymnastic trousers (all genderless).
Also from
Lardini
comfort and naturalness are favored: jackets have longer lapels or turn into shirt-jackets, trousers have a comfortable fit, coats are long and generously proportioned. Cadini
focuses on the
knitted
jacket,
made with fine wool with a knit effect. At
Herno
, on the other hand, the garment destined to become the absolute protagonist is the first
padded bomber model: a relaxed fit, almost oversized, and a dark brown rubber zip
coordinated with the nylon lining.
In addition to traditional fabrics, the classic companies are introducing new materials into the collection, previously intended only for sports:
fabrics with a rubberized effect
, stretch, recycled and recyclable padding.
At the fair there is also the theme of sustainability: sustainable processes,
eco-friendly finishes and dyes
are the basis for the construction of long and short outerwear, even with detachable interiors designed for globe-trotters.
Among the many there is
Ecoalf
which has developed more than 450 recycled fabrics thanks to the reuse of 250 million plastic bottles, 89 tons of discarded nets and used tires.