One of the most stainless passe-partout, modeled on the personality of the wearer,
jeans
return to acquire a place of honor in the male wardrobe. If he ever had lost it. At Pitti Uomo 101 companies dust off models of the past, offer green washes and dyes, bother icons of the past to ensure a soul to each piece. We know that jeans are a timeless garment, but what is taking place now is the evolution of the famous canvas of Nimes, the French city from which it takes its name. What are the new frontiers of denim for autumn-winter 2022/23? For lovers of the sector, the must-have silhouette is relaxed: comfortable, with an adjustable closure and a Japanese-inspired fit.
The cult models? The classic 5 pockets, straight leg or 70s style. The fabrics are highly sought after such as Egyptian cotton, denim and cashmere blend, selvedge from Japan, hi-tech fibers. The challenge concerns the production processes, on a journey between the durability of performing canvases, contributions to environmental sustainability and archive washing. Natural fabrics are often enriched with military details and workwear inflections, which tell the evolution of this garment to be customized through daily use. There is a strong theme of eco-responsible sensitivity, which sees companies rethinking the choice of small parts: buttons, rivets and zips are made of non-galvanized steel with a low environmental impact. And then the details become green: recycled leather and organic cotton linings treated with water washes.For example, the denim giant
Levi's
presents the new model 501 Original Designed for Circularity, the most sustainable jeans ever, because it is made with 100% recycled organic cotton, following manufacturing processes from which all polluting elements are eliminated. Mcs, on the other hand, turns 35 and celebrates the anniversary with a collection inspired by wild nature, offering sustainable washes inspired by the brand's archives. The same green approach for the Italian company
Re-Hash
, while
Closed
looks at the young preppy style and mixes it with a more raw ideal: the range of jeans is 100% eco-sustainable. Closed, on the other hand, expands the range more than ever: from super skinny stretch to regular comfort, to cropped over with a vintage effect. Different declinations also for the treatments:
raw denim
, distressed handmade light mending,
black-gray
with a metropolitan aplomb.
Another great protagonist at Pitti Uomo is
knitwear
. The world of knitwear expands to meet the needs of every man: voluminous but soft garments are born, more raw or minimal sweaters, thin pieces that can also be worn on the skin. The material effect is expressed on garments with an active spirit, for every day and all places. In addition to 100% pure wool or cashmere, companies are looking to green choices such as hybrid cashmere, partially recycled.
Or they mix materials: very fine wools with three-layer membranes, polyester and stretch viscose, woolen cloths coupled with scuba jersey. Among Roberto Collina's hits of the season, the mint green crewneck sweater made with a Casentino treatment, the ribbed one in wool and mohair with handmade motif.
Cashmere is also the protagonist in outerwear, such as the bombers of the new Baia brand, making their debut at Pitti, founded by stylist Camilla Rizzolo together with his brother Matteo. A contemporary proposal of unisex pieces, entirely handmade in materials such as cashmere and corduroy. (HANDLE).
