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Mama from Fruma: Next time someone next to you wants a perfect couscous

A rich history as one of the first ghost kitchens in Tel Aviv and a sad break for reorganization led to a glorious Tripolitan comeback

Yaniv Granot

23/01/2022

Sunday, 23 January 2022, 08:00 Updated: 08:05

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Under the Tel Aviv radar.

Mama Mfruma (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

It happens in every way - space, synchronized with the weather - exponential when temperatures drop, fades slightly, but still stable, when the climate returns to Israel - but is hardly affected by other external factors.

For reasons I have never been able to find out, there is a point jump in this story every Tuesday, but do not be naive - there is no day, and no job (as long as jobs in their routine format exist at all now), who do not know the process, and do not happily take part.

and you are familiar too.

11:00 AM plus-minus, gray outside and gray in front of the keyboard.

Comfort is needed and hunger increases.

Then, always-always, there will be someone who will ask, who will redeem, who will lead - "Maybe we will order couscous today?".

And if already couscous, then "Mama from Fruma".

But what about the price?

One of the city's favorite dishes got its own place, and rightly so

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There is no reason to compromise

Long years of in-depth research in the field have spawned a couscous favorite for each of us.

The options are not many in the first place, and there are worthy giants, but the bottom line is simple, and with a truth not easy to digest - there are some defaults that maintain 100% disappointment from the field.

In quantity, in quality, in taste.

Because of all of these, and for other reasons listed here, my private go-to couscous is "Mama from Fruma."

What started many years ago as a mere shipping venture (and was probably the first ghost kitchen in Tel Aviv, in days when that phrase had not yet surpassed the language academy), with a reasonable but inconsistent level of credibility, and an excellent, consistent couscous level, disappeared from the eaters' radar, collected for itself, And retired.

A short break, getting organized, and a new location - so hidden from view that it took me years to rediscover them - heralded the comeback, and the bottom line - there is no longer any reason to compromise.

Come early

Two minutes from Tel Aviv, a perfect chicken walks around at prices that make Tel Aviv funny

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home economics.

Mama's couscous from Fruma

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The menu of "Mama from Fruma" is seemingly simple, and only gets complicated if you want to complicate it.

It is based on business in a meat dish format + two toppings + three salads, and from there the options wind to the sides, a temptation or a baguette, food packed in boxes, dishes by weight, words increase hunger (try to say "cook in silk" or "cook in tear" without laughter) and motivation for action , But of the kind that really motivates action, in a "ask us what's ready today" configuration.

The place opens in the late morning and closes showcases in the early afternoon, focuses resources right on the peak, and serves a ton of soldiers from the campus, lots of linked delivery orders, and also anyone who decided that day to move to London Minister.

The latter subgroup is particularly niche, because it is clear to everyone that this is an indoor shopping center that is both a corridor, a maze and a hall, in the literal sense of the word.

20 minutes long, and happy

The Asian dumpling stand we always wanted here

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Softness, airiness, excellence.

Mama's patties from Fruma (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

"That's enough for you," they asked.

Three days later I had an answer

We took, if the statement of intent was not clear enough, couscous to-go - grains in a liter box (about 35 shekels) and vegetarian vegetable soup in a double box (40 shekels, again about).

"Will that be enough for you?", They asked at the stand, "We just want you to swear and have fun."

Three days later I had an answer - this box, with its leftovers, consumed an average Israeli house for half a week, but it's not just the quantity, because the Valio For Money was old-fashioned.

The couscous itself is good and worthy.

The vegetable soup - the heart of the matter, in fact - was very rich, full of surprises, laden with pumpkin and soft kohlrabi, chewy carrots and chickpeas, greens that managed to maintain their self-esteem and spices none of which for a moment thought were the star of this show.

It's very difficult to sail in superlatives on a spoon laden with such couscous, a basic consumer product by all accounts, so I'll just write like this - when you want, that's the answer.

Intended for anyone who has complained

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Homemade food, if the house is Tripolitan.

Mama from Fruma

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The money felt like a light meal in Tel Aviv 2022, the bag asked for extra over-white from the fingers

Beyond that, a box of chicken patties (50 shekels), two units of pretzels (18 shekels per unit) and yellow rice, which at this point have already been given on the road, were also loaded.

The money felt like a light meal in Tel Aviv 2022, the bag asked for extra over-white from the fingers.

The patties were of the soft and airy kind, cooked for a long time in a reddish sauce, with only a spicy hint, and an oil that makes you go back to the fun time when "it's not fat, it's sauce" was a legitimate culinary phrase.

They were delicious, ran children and adults alike, and gave - do not shy away from this cliché here - a sense of "homey" food, if your home knows how to cook in Tripolitian.

The mafrom, a meat and potato monster on a texture scale that ranges from "devoted" to "embracing", were the best value that 18 shekels will buy you these days in this area of ​​Tel Aviv, or at all.

A complete, excellent meal, with an excess of 20.

The sound of the crunch

Hamburger like there is no here, and crispy chicken as it should be here

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There is no point in measuring "Mama from Fruma" in terms of voice and hype.

They do not want, and should not, be there.

If there are already categories and labels, then let's go for "feeders".

You know, the ones who get up in the morning to cook and make a living, without worrying about a story that is not the story.

I admit I would not have been re-exposed to their existence if I had not had to go through one day, for reasons that are pointless to detail because they would be unreliable anyway, in the same London Minister.

When I asked if they were "they", I already saw a smile on their faces.

A few seconds later he was deleted, hinting at meters of returning to work.

It does not matter to anything but one thing - the next time someone asks you at work "maybe we will order couscous", you will know what to tell him.

"Mama Mfruma", Ibn Gvirol 30, Tel Aviv.

Reservations at 03-6392060

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• couscous

• Patties

• From Fromm

• schnitzel

• Tripolitian food