(ANSA) - ROME, JANUARY 24 - An unmistakable surrealism filled with the thrill of otherworldly charm and glamor in gold, black and white, characterizes the new haute couture collection by Schiaparelli, a maison designed by the Texan designer Daniel Roseberry, which is back on the catwalk in Paris.
It is the stylist himself who describes the collection by explaining his choices.
"Our latest collection - says the creative director of the brand founded in 1927 by Elsa Schiaparelli and today owned by the Tod's Group - was conceived in a short period of hope, in April. Vaccines were becoming available, traveling was becoming a possibility again. We could imagine that the collective nightmare was behind us, or at least it would soon be. Yet now, intertwined with that hope is a sense of loss. The loss of people, the most heartbreaking. But also the loss of certainty. The loss of a collective future ".
"During the 23 rehearsals of the garments in the collection - explains the stylist - I realized that what seemed exciting to me at this moment was something different. Suddenly the color seemed wrong to me. As well as the volume. All the tricks that high fashion designers ( including myself) they use to communicate grandeur and craftsmanship, great silhouettes, glorious fabric poufs, huge volumes, they seemed empty to me.
I felt we needed black, white and gold, basic colors.
After two years of thinking about the surreal, they found themselves thinking about the empyrean: the sky as a place escapes from the chaos of the planet, but also the home of a mythical priestess, at the same time goddess and alien, who could in fact walk among us.
A being whose clothes defied the rules of gravity.
I imagined her wearing razor sharp tailoring shapes, a narrow waist and huge dove necks ready to take flight.
I visualized her wearing a cream-colored short jacket with a duck-billed back in "US" cotton tailoring, embroidered with vintage palms that lifted from the shoulders to stand up straight ". (ANSA).