We came to eat only pizza-pasta, we thought it would be "okay"

Good intentions?

Yes, generous portions?

Yes, but apparently our standard of expectation from Ivrian, which was low in the first place, should have been lowered a bit more

Avi Efrati

17/02/2022

Thursday, February 17, 2022, 8 p.m.

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Dishes at the Ivriani restaurant in Raanana (Photo: Yonatan Ben Haim)

Like all of Tel Aviv's satellite cities, Raanana is not steeped in restaurants.

Every new non-popular restaurant that opens there, therefore, is a priori blessed, in the hope that they manage to make reasonable food in it.

Yes, "reasonable" and proper it is about the maximum exhaled maximum.

"Good" is already something that is a miracle in the town, no less.

Ivriani, which recently opened in Raanana, is a dairy Italian restaurant, ie kosher.

Raanana is a city with a significant number of religious residents (including the Prime Minister of Shinui) and most of the places in its center are closed at the weekend.

It makes sense, therefore, that in such a place a new restaurant would be kosher, so that it would speak to everyone.

Ivriani is owned by Emanuel Dayan, who founded Kfa Fe Hanoi, a Vietnamese training camp in Rabin Square, almost five years ago.

This is an Italian restaurant of the kind commonly called "generic": no regional Italian food, certainly not creative;

But the allways dishes found in an Italian restaurant designed for everyone, everywhere around the globe, say: antipasti, pizza-pasta-tiramisu and friends.

We arrived at Ivriani with a completely regulated coefficient of expectations, to eat pizza-pasta with the expectation of "okay" - no more but no less.

We found a place with a small interior space and a number of outdoor spaces.

We did not quite understand whether the design takes to the boot country or rather to Greece;

Apparently a bit here and a bit there, befitting a place of the generic kind, not looking for differentiation or uniqueness.

We sat inside and the space was not exactly full, as expected in a new restaurant that was just getting started.

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A modest and unpretentious menu.

Hebrew (Photo: Yonatan Ben Haim)

A particularly young service staff welcomed us.

It's hard to say he looks professional.

In the minutes I waited for my partner for a meal that was a little late to arrive, the waiters stood at the entrance to the restaurant and talked quite loudly.

It looks more like a kiosk staff on the beach than like a restaurant staff.

This is how you will feel the service experience throughout the meal.

Not exactly "Flor" managed.

More a well-intentioned, inexperienced group of young people who have not yet managed to internalize the essence of service work.

Yes, Corona and all that.

We're used to it and all that, but here it was from the extreme shows of Sugat's well-intentioned adolescent-amateur.

The modest and unpretentious menu includes several starters / antipasti, including not exactly Italian options, salads, pizzas, pastas and three fish dishes.

We went for a meal based on antipasti and pizza to start, pasta and fish to continue.

plate

(69 shekels) The big ones were roasted eggplant with tahini-yogurt and garlic confit, roasted portobello mushrooms, tomatoes with basil, artichoke, ricotta with garlic and thyme, roasted peppers and feta, a small salad, kalamata olives and a little bread, baked on the spot.

In terms of dosages it was a real generosity.

This is a large plate that can easily close first for two.

The qualities are already a different story.

The eggplant was tired and cold.

Apparently she was lightened a long time ago and lost his juices.

The portobello was roasted without a significant additive and was bland.

The artichoke was banal and so were the roasted peppers.

We eliminated everything because we were hungry but none of the tastings made us linger, even briefly, in the face of the taste.

Just a dish.

Pizza

(69 shekels) There were tomatoes, mozzarella, roasted peppers, roasted cherry tomatoes, tuna and chili oil.

The dough was fine even if not particularly good, and the topping was not unique.

As part of the true generosity of the place, the amount of tuna was generous.

It could have been eaten but not sure it was an Italian restaurant pizza dish, as opposed to a routine street pizzeria of the kind that did not fit into the list of best street pizzas when the food sections mark International Pizza Day, as they did recently.

Bottom line: not bad;

Medium and down.

Ivriani's desserts (Photo: Yonatan Ben Haim)

In the

(NIS 65) we ordered, there was pepperella with mascarpone-spinach-basil sauce, sun-dried tomatoes, peas, white wine and parmesan.

The collection of tastemakers seems, on the face of it logical and desirable, even promising, but the execution is dragged down.

Instead of a lively and happy dish whose basic ingredients talk to each other into a white-green celebration, we got what felt like a pasted paste, not integrative and not really tasty.

The abundance of Parmesan Extra we added did not improve the situation either.

If there was anything to be said about the previous two dishes but they did not scratch the worst threshold, it is.

(NIS 98) Roasted with parmesan stock, with cherry tomatoes and peas alongside sweet potato tortillas, returned to medium-sized complexes.

Morality was unjustly burned and was juicy.

The sauce belonged to the type that Italian foodies would whine in pain.

A basic rule in Italian cuisine, based on pure culinary logic, is that Parmesan should not be added to fish and seafood.

Here they connected and with all their might.

The sauce was too plentiful but not bad in itself.

His connection to the fish was not something I would run to do in the private kitchen but at least none of the ingredients per se were taken nor the sky.

The sweet potato ravioli, on the other hand, felt somewhat industrial.

We did not eat the dish at the age but also not with too terrible a sense of injustice, although it is clear that other sauces were more correct here.

When we checked with the waitress about the desserts we asked if they make the ice cream on the spot and if not, what she finds.

She, of course, did not know, went to find out and said it came from "Vanilla".

It's a bit embarrassing that there was no one in Ibriani who would explain to any of the staff that what Vaniglia writes is pronounced "vanilla", but on days when restaurateurs say it is enough for them that waiters of an average age of 18-20 just get to the shift assigned to them, who am I because Aline.

We ordered

(42 shekels) that felt like a completely homemade dessert, in the not-so-bad sense of things, including an over-presence for the final-tasting egg flavors, not enough for the salted caramel and a final threshold of medium and down-down.

We are in favor of restaurants in the suburban cities.

It is impossible to have places especially in the big city and with great difficulty in the rest of the metropolis.

Ivriani seems like a well-intentioned but not terribly professional experience, moving suits between mediocre and sheer amateurism.

Most of the time she is not terrible, but at no point is she really good.

And not that there is no slightly more culinary respectable generic Italian (aka Nono). Therefore, despite the good intentions and considerable generosity, Ivriani must make some improvements, and fast. We will continue the Sisyphean and frustrating journey, with little, if any, satisfaction for the humble wish for a proper generic

Hebrew account (Photo: image processing, Walla system!)

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• Raanana

• Kosher restaurant

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