Between manifesto and poetry, Balmain unrolls a collection that mixes protective armor and unveiled bodies

The decor.

At a time when the war in Ukraine is on everyone's mind, the exercise of the fashion show dedicated to ready-to-wear fall-winter 2022-2023 seems little in tune with the events that are on the agenda.

A feeling that Olivier Rousteing reported on his Instagram account a few hours before his show on Wednesday evening: “In presenting our collection, we are well aware that there are more important things happening in the world today.

It's hard to focus on the shows and the clothes, as we listen with heavy hearts to the latest news.

Our thoughts and prayers are with the Ukrainians.”

It is therefore by infusing a poetry that was sorely lacking at the time that the artistic director spoke.

And expressing it through dance:

a performance carried out in the middle of the industrial columns of the Carreau du temple, in Paris, which evoked the struggle and peace to end with a fiery kiss, exchanged between two soldiers.

The finale was accompanied by a quote from the

by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: “It is much more difficult to judge oneself than to judge others”.

Show - Balmain - Ready to wear Fall-Winter 22-23

In images, in pictures

See the slideshow101 photos

See the slideshow101 photos

The look.

The show then begins to unfold, with Rousteing's signature codes screaming at the top of their lungs: white, black, jeans, gilding... This new collection, made up of 101 looks, invites a mix of two aesthetics: the triumphant body under the "protective" garment.

The flesh is thus highlighted by mini-dresses, leather leggings, crop tops, thin and vertiginous heels, deep necklines, transparency or notches.

The whole systematically covered with an armor that he declines in corset, in metallic details, in belt, in jacket, in XXL coats.

We also spot large oversized shirts, wide pants, lace and marked shoulders.

The front row.

We could see the Brazilian footballer Neymar settle not far from Serena Williams, who marched two days earlier for Off-White.

Adriana Lima or even Jean Paul Gaultier were also seated in the front row.

The detail.

The bride in white, but also in black, in a puffy and corseted dress.