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Golden Burrito: Brunch or munch, it's one of the best dishes in town right now

Imagine JNF benches on the shores of San Diego, imagine El Camino on Route 1, imagine a light rail rising from the dust

Yaniv Granot

13/03/2022

Sunday, March 13, 2022, 08:00

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JNF benches in the San Diego forests. "Golden Burrito" (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

"We had a year and a half of spitting blood, really. But it made us tighten everything up, understand who we are and who the audience is, what they want and what we want"

Jonathan Greenberg could use these two sentences to describe his private spitting in a year and a half - The last two years.

His, and that of each of the food people and the Tel Aviv experience, in fact.

Or - more in fact - of any Israeli who stood exposed in front of the corona.

these two sentences would have sat stamp in the interview format created by the plague.

They would have been naturally accepted this past weekend as well, packing the corona deep in our collective repression drawer, labeling it as "something that has happened in the past."

But the truth is that they were said a little over a year ago, and in the shadow of the entry into force of one of the toughest closures we knew here.

So, on the JNF bench outside the Gin Club Writers, Greenberg used them to describe the early days of The Streets, the urban cafe ("This is a restaurant, who am I actually working for? This is a restaurant for everything") With his partners 16 years ago, and demanded from them "spitting blood" which is probably the natural physiological process of any business here.Now

, on a similar but different JNF bench, these two specific sentences may not be said, but are still present.

And with them in the face of the tightening and the will, the question of who we are and who the audience is, and yes, also the blood.

Try to open a new place without these components.

Or, more challenging - try to open "Golden Burrito" without them.

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A Mexican-Israeli story.

"Golden Burrito" (Photo: Liel Zand)

The whole story is a Chevrolet El Camino traveling in the western United States, stopping only to refuel and food, not necessarily in that order

The new wall in Greenberg's building (and that of his partners Nadav Ne'eman and Rani Ofer) is, literally, a wall.

That is, a large wall outside the Streets in Ibn Gvirol, which tells in a colorful and spectacular painting the whole story - a Chevrolet El Camino (the original, not Jesse's from "Breaking Bad") traveling in the western United States, stopping only to refuel gasoline and food, Not necessarily in that order.

Outside, next to the wall, there is a digital stand for reservations, as is customary in our places now, and also the same picnic tables, which extend over about a third of the southern seating area of ​​the cafe, and that's it.

Everything else is a dedicated window that does not open at the end, and a lot of messengers do arrive from the beginning.

"The Mexican story has been on our minds for a long time," Greenberg said. "Margaritas. I came back to Israel, there was nothing like it here, and I said 'wow,' but life always beats you, and it always stays in your head."

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The small victories of life.

"Golden Burrito"

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The menu is small and aggressive - some sharp and focused punches of burritos and bowls, a little small before and a little sweet after, and cocktails of course.

Come on, obviously cocktails

But this life, for its victories and delays, also has positive sides.

The little tacos have become a burrito that Israeli audiences can more easily connect to (and think about in the meantime), and the fantasy of a blue-and-white Mexican coastline has matured a little, still a little and was born as something a little more applicable, friendly and cohesive.

In practice, this means a small and aggressive menu - some sharp and focused punches of burritos and bowls, a little small before and a little sweet after, and cocktails of course.

Come on, obviously cocktails.

"Slowly, everything sharpened for us, and we asked ourselves why actually get inspired by Mexico, when the Americans have already made the adjustments for us?" Jamaican parrot and Korean-Mexican-Californian food truck, a homage to Chef Roy Choi's mythological "Kogi".

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The options map has been expanded.

"Golden Burrito" (Photo: Liel Zand)

The order begins with the selection of a protein, and "puts" the selection into a burrito or a bowl, a mechanism that already begins with repairing all sorts of "impossible-to-change-everything-with-everything-pre-built" such annoyances, and continues from there to automatically expand the options map. For omnivores and vegans alike

The order begins with a choice of protein (beef stew, chicken stew, crispy chicken, redefine meat, or shrimp, with the latter plus five shekels), and "puts" the choice into a burrito or a bowl, a mechanism that already begins with all kinds of "impossible" Change-with-us-nothing-everything-pre-built "such annoying, and continues from there to automatically expand the map of possibilities, for omnivores and vegans alike.

The burritos themselves, "four plus one", as Greenberg puts it, are "classic" (red rice, black bean stew, tomato salad with onion and cilantro, lettuce, honey chipotle sauce and green rose salsa, NIS 52), "California" ( French fries, white cabbage and purple cabbage, cheddar cheese, chipotle mayonnaise and Halafinio-lime sauce, NIS 54), "Korea-Town" (spiced rice, kimchi banero, lettuce, cabbage salad in sesame oil, mayonnaise 'Yifotela and Korean barbecue sauce, NIS 54), and' Jamaica '(spicy rice,

One plus is the "Breakfast Burrito" (scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, fire browns, avocado, spicy tomato salad, pickled cactus, chipotle-honey sauce and sour cream, NIS 48).

Apart from them, there are nachos and corn ribs, fried chipotle-cheese balls and salad, kids burritos and nuggets, and also a "sweet burrito" loaded with bananas, choruses, and three bottled margaritas (classic, tropical and ginger) and great that require you Just some salt in the house.

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When the crave is provided.

"Korea-Town" by "Golden Burrito" (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

"If you were talking to me five years ago, you would find real tacos here and a pig's belly, but at some point you realize that what you like is not necessarily what people like."

According to Greenberg, the intention here was never to invent the wheel with gimmick-burrito variations, and no tahini was planned to be poured from above at any stage, but also "we did not want to forcefully pursue authenticity."

He says the golden burrito "represents a mature menu, and it is likely that if you had talked to me five years ago, you would have found real tacos here and a pork belly, but at some point you realize that what you like is not necessarily what people like."

What does this actually mean?

This means very heavy and very laden burritos (and as a result also very satisfying), which go well with a wild sauce collection, but not soul-muttering and creepy-crawlers. Exterminate, and mentioned how good it is when it's really good.

The Korean burrito went deeper, providing very distinct, slightly spicy and very deep flavors.

In the first bites you wonder what gives you the castor.

Then you think you understood but must continue to eat because you want to be safe.

When it's over, you're left with an unsuspecting crayfish, and an unsatisfied napkin crab.

The breakfast burrito, an exit that has not taken root with us for some reason (but it is still possible and desirable to correct this historical distortion), simply puts into the tortilla everything you thought of ordering at the next American diner you come to.

The Fire Browns?

GOOD.

Avocado?

GOOD.

Cheddar?

GOOD.

Scribbled?

GOOD.

If there was a way to pour in this coffee in the refill that we all learned to love to hate to love to hate to love, there was a dish here that could be developed for a startup.

Without it, it's just one of the best dishes in town right now, brunch or munch.

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Bite fire here.

The breakfast of "Golden Burrito" (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)

"It's a crazy thing that you suddenly have the ability to quietly open a brand, improve it, and get real feedback."

"Golden Burrito" began in a quiet launch configuration in Walt about a month ago, allowing everyone to conduct a review process and feedback almost completely free of outside influences - without an "experience" that must be part of a new restaurant, for example, and without certified market and trend trends.

Just someone hungry, at home or in the office, in front of the food, and the bottom line - tasty or not tasty?

"It's a crazy thing that you suddenly have the ability to quietly open a brand, improve it, and get real feedback," explained Greenberg, who in recent weeks knew a three-digit number of burritos in his stomach and a similar amount of gym visits, apparently, "You usually open doors, "And that's it. Now there are customers, and I too can order home, without them knowing it's me, and straight up repairs-repairs-repairs, until we are satisfied."

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Surfers scream to the sky.

"California" by "Golden Burrito" (Photo: Giphy)

The current location of the Streets, and of the Golden Burrito, is the eye of the storm of light rail works in this area of ​​the city.

One line will move west-east on Arlozorov, and another will cut it south-north on Ibn Gvirol, but until this cosmic traffic intersection does occur, it is mostly a storm of dust.

All of which has led the partner triangle to wonder whether to stay here and continue to get dirty until the gray settles, or to sum up almost a decade and cut risks.

In the end, the potential for "the promise of the future" and the energy of the moment prevailed.

The first continues to fuel the dream.

The latter dug in and out of there with a proposal for a ride on the only road she knows of - on Route 1, inside El Camino.

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• Street food

• Mexican food

• Burrito

• Nachos

• The Streets