First, the soil must be worked through and weeds removed - either with a spade or a motor hoe, which can be borrowed from gardening shops.

Then collect coarse stones and roots.

If the soil is very hard and loamy, according to the experts from the

portal, a ten centimeter thick layer of building sand should be applied, because lawn grows best on loose soil and is also less susceptible to moss and weeds.

If you already have moss in your lawn, use a simple household remedy to put an end to it*.

To prevent water from accumulating in bumps and troughs, the surface must be leveled after tilling the soil.

A simple wooden rake works best for this.

After you have roughly leveled the lawn, the ground still needs to be rolled.

You can borrow the required lawn roller from a hardware store.

If hills appear again in the so-called planum, they are leveled again with the wooden rake.

Now the soil is prepared, but should rest for a week before sowing.

lawn seeds: A windless day is suitable for sowing lawns so that the seed is not blown away.

First, measure out the correct amount of seed for your lawn, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Then scatter the lawn seeds with a slight swing on the prepared area.

If you don't dare to do this, you can use a spreader - this also makes it particularly even.

To ensure that the seeds later have sufficient ground contact and sprout well, rake the seeds lengthways and crossways into the ground with the wooden rake.

This means that the freshly sown grass seed does not dry out as easily.

After raking in, the seed is rolled back into the ground to ensure good ground contact.

If the soil has a high clay content, a thin layer of lawn or potting soil (0.5 cm) is advisable as a cover, but this is not rolled.

Finally, the entire lawn is watered using a swivel sprinkler.

In dry weather, the lawn must be watered four times a day over the next few days so that the sensitive grasses can grow well before and after germination.