Space, great self-citations, artist signatures and new experiments for ever higher performances.
These are the trends that run through the new Haute Horlogerie collections, presented at Watches and wonders 2022, the Geneva show that for the first time brought together 38 brands, from giants such as Rolex and Cartier to the 15 independents of the Carré des horloges.
Among iconic models, unique or hyper-technological pieces, here is our Top ten.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE - Perfect interpreter of one of the must-have themes of the season, Jaeger-LeCoultre launches The Stellar Odyssey, a collection dedicated to the astronomical phenomena that are at the origin of the measurement of time.
Among these, Atmos Infinite, a modern reinterpretation of the iconic clock invented in 1928 and which defies the laws of physics: to work it does not need human intervention.
In fact, the slightest variation in temperature changes the volume of the gas, making the membrane "breathe" as if it were the bellows of an accordion and loading the spring.
A variation of only one degree Celsius provides an autonomy of about two days.
PIAGET - The new Limelight Gala High Jewelery is born from the Atelier de l'Extraordinaire of the Swiss maison: more than 175 hours of workmanship and over 250 precious stones, meticulously positioned between the claw setting of marquise-cut diamonds, snow on the dial, channel for baguette cut diamonds and grained for brilliant cut on the bracelet.
So as to capture and reflect the light in an always different way.
HERMES - If in the men's collections the French house chooses the theme of travel with the Arceau le Temps Voyageur, for women the Kelly watch returns, an icon born in 1975 and inspired by the bag designed by Robert Dumas in the 1930s.
In five possible interpretations (steel, rose gold, with or without diamonds set and with mother-of-pearl dial or white lacquered with sequins), the Kelly this time accentuates its imaginative side, becoming a pendant from a diamond bracelet or sautoir necklace in calfskin black.
CHANEL - Another personal tribute.
This time for Mademoiselle Chanel and the J12 watch that meet again in three creations, each limited to 55 pieces.
They range from Mademoiselle J12 La Pause, with the silhouette of Coco dressed in a marinière as in a photo taken in her garden at La Pausa, in the south of France.
And then Mademoiselle J12.XS, with a boatman's hat dotted with a brilliant-cut diamond.
And J12 Gabrielle Caliber 3.1, which portrays her with her inseparable pearl necklace.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - The homage to nature has fascinated the maison since 1906 and in a colorful and dreamy journey it also crosses the 2022 creations. As in the precious Automate Fontaine aux Oiseaux, but above all the two Lady Arpels Heures Florales and Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier inspired by the concept of a floral clock, conceived by Carlo Linneo in the Philosophia Botanica of 1751. On a three-dimensional dial, the passage of time is marked by the opening and closing of twelve corollas, with a scenario that changes every 60 minutes.
PATEK PHILIPPE - Taking inspiration from the pieces exhibited in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, the Swiss house marks the year with twelve new pieces that reinterpret the concept of "vintage".
Top model, the Travel Time Ref. 5326G-001 which for the first time combines the annual calendar with the Travel Time complication that allows you to view the time in a second time zone.
The Cassa Calatrava is embellished with a Clous de Paris guilloché motif and an anthracite dial inspired by the shells of old cameras.
CARTIER - The Parisian maison also draws on one of its historic models: the Cartier Pasha from the 1980s, inspired in turn by the model created in 1943 specifically for Thami El Glaoui, at the time Pasha of Marrakes.
From that first model, the characteristic protection grille on the glass returns to the dial.
HUBLOT - For art lovers on the wrist, the collaboration with the Japanese master Takashi Murakami continues with two static NFTs, limited edition.
In the center, the flower that smiles mischievously, the iconic theme of Murakami's work and his Superflat artistic movement.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE - "It will be like not feeling it on your wrist".
The promise comes directly from CEO Wilhelm Schmid for the new Odysseus.
Sporty, elegant and at the same time very light thanks to the titanium case (which weighs 43% less than steel).
With a height of just 11.1 millimeters, it fits almost imperceptibly on the wrist.
MONTBLANC - Always attentive to the ambitions of contemporary explorers, Montblanc launches the new 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290, the first completely oxygen-free watch.
An innovation designed for a timepiece that is reliable even in the most extreme conditions.
The total lack of oxygen inside the movement, in fact, avoids fogging (a consequence of the drastic changes in temperature at high altitude) and at the same time prevents the oxidation of the components ensuring greater durability and maximum precision.
The watch will be tested directly by mountaineer Nimsdai Purja on his May expedition to Everest.
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