Monday evening, Alessandro Michele did not hide his joy of playing with the garment.
Nourished with historical and philosophical references (Hannah Arendt and Walter Benjamin are quoted in the note of intent), costumes exploring the boundaries between fashion and fantasy, his cruise collection which paraded at the foot of Castel del Monte, in Italy, was as usual generous on the catwalk (more than a hundred looks presented).
And inclined to break down the traditional social rules that surround the wearing of clothing.
Since his arrival at Gucci in 2015, the Roman designer has ignored gender, old ideas about the day and night wardrobe, and calls, certainly more timidly but always a little more, the limits of ultra-sexy.
He embeds in this exercise the
Here, the specificity of this game lies mainly in the transparency.
Dresses in shambles worn by models revealing multiple bodies, like Misty Kyd, the daughter of Sharleen Spiteri, the singer of the group Texas, who paraded for the first time for Gucci.
"Thank you Gucci for making me feel so good about myself and so beautiful," the 19-year-old model said in a post on her Instagram account.
See-through dresses at the Gucci show
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow09 photos
See the slideshow09 photos
live naked
The silhouettes show bare breasts, sometimes small, sometimes large, bellies with protruding abs, others more relaxed or even signs of cellulite.
A political and non-verbal approach that is part of the
body positive movement
encouraged in recent years by the fashion industry.
These silhouettes, varnished with a transparent veil and exposed in all directions, therefore invite you to live naked (and a little in panties and thigh-high boots), to claim your body, not as an object of desire in the eyes of others (even if ), but as a seizure of power for oneself.
And finally, to play it a bit like Rihanna who hasn't worn a lot of clothes since she announced her pregnancy a few months ago.
Many observers thus see in it a call for the reappropriation of the body in the face of internalized injunctions.
