Hallelujah: A restaurant from A to Z in Tel Aviv with reasonable prices

If we left on 85/15, without hurting our pockets, and have already dreamed of our next time there, that says it all

Avi Efrati

19/05/2022

Thursday, 19 May 2022, 08:20 Updated: 08:26

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Three insanely soft beef and ricotta patties on 85/15 (Photo: Sapir Kusa)

85/15 opened at the end of 2019, a few months before we became acquainted with the corona virus.

In the first months of its operation it operated under the radar, unnamed, until it was decided to name the new place based on its location: Gordon 85 Corner of the Kings of Israel 15. Eli Stein is the chef of 85/15 and has not yet started cooking there. Particularly successful of Adora.

Our visit, shortly after the opening revealed a happy, worthy, confident and assertive food, made with talent and care but insisting not to take himself too seriously.

we had a good time.

Not long has passed since then and the troll of the virus has burst into our lives in full force.

All the restaurants were hijacked badly but for places it just opened it was doubly difficult.

The processes of formation, crystallization, and establishment were interrupted, then interrupted again, to reopen long afterward.

There are places that it completely ruined their economic plan and led to their closure.

85/15 absorbed, survived and returned to function when the world returned to its habit.

We went back there, almost two and a half years after that proper meal and World War III that went through the middle.

Last week we connected less

Another puff of a second deer who is now laughing a big laugh all the way to the bank

To the full article

American Tartar on 85/15 (Photo: Sapir Kusa)

85/15 is more of a food bar than a restaurant.

Sitting mostly on the street, with these island additional seats on the bar;

Eat small to medium portions, drink and not at all committed to the classic meal format.

You can settle for just a drink or a drink and a small snack, and everything is fine.

Informality is the name of the game in terms of the entertainment format.

It's all over when it comes to the food itself because it's clear that it's taken seriously here.

The menu is divided into "cold" and "hot" with dishes, only one of which is priced at over a hundred shekels and most of which are very far from this threshold.

We started with

(NIS 56),

(NIS 68) and

(54 shekels).

The salad had several types of lettuce with "hay" cheese, roasted pistachios and mustard and honey vinaigrette full of presence and goodness.

The sauce reminded us of the orientation we encountered on our first visit here, two and a half years ago: clear flavors sometimes even strong, full of power.

We moved on to the fish tartare, on a locus basis.

Here giving the main flavor were wonderful fermented green tomatoes, combined with yogurt, pistachio and herbs.

The fish was excellent, the array of flavors intense and clear but moving away from rudeness.

A very good dish.

The American tartare (a blend of concepts that connects the classic French beef tartare to the Belgian American fillet) went in the same direction: strong flavors with a clear presence of mustard and a rather charming degree of spiciness, which was fun to soak into baguette slices.

Beauty of opening.

Purple calamari in plancha on 85/15 (Photo: Sapir Kusa)

We continued with "

" (NIS 48), in a tomato sauce and Greek Kaplutiri cheese.

The three little patties were indeed insanely soft, the tomato sauce was homemade of the good kind and caplottiri is always good, but the patties themselves failed to make happy and reveal a significant upgrade from a worthy chef.

This was the least good dish at the meal.

We continued to two hot tubs:

(NIS 88) and

(NIS 68).

The calamari, in a decidedly generous dose, were sliced ​​into rings and then cut so that they came from the plancha curled.

There was nothing in them but olive oil, garlic and large young thyme leaves, which gave a very magical twist.

A dish that is net of raw materials, a good hand and another small, significant and smart round.

In the chicken dish, we did not receive a banal and sad curry from the supermarket, but a chicken of freedom - a completely different opera.

A very tasty eggplant cream, combined with pine nuts, infinite softness combined with depth and refinement of flavors proved that even a local chicken, unlike the French berry chicken, can produce a really excellent dish.

For sweet we went for two of the four desserts of the evening:

and

(48 shekels each).

The lemon cream, with butter crumble and spices, was really tasty.

It had the right and precise balances between lemons and citrus fruits present but not too sour, to sweetness.

It was not too heavy and the crumble added something more.

The mousse even qualified for it.

I love chocolate desserts that are first and foremost a fierce and clear bitter chocolate fist and only then sweet.

As with all of Stein's dishes, a chef who, as mentioned, is not afraid of fists, there was a concentrated and dense chocolate in its texture and flavors, which is very strong in bromine, with "Flor de Sal" salt and cocoa crumble.

Bravo.

The desserts.

Bravo (Photo: Sapir Kusa)

As I write these lines, I'm already thinking about my next visit on 85/15 and the beef tartare, the free chicken dish and the chocolate mousse.

I will be back to visit here soon, not because it was necessarily the most delicious and important meal, with the most extraordinary dishes I have eaten in the last year.

I will return precisely because of the fun everyday nonchalance that this place radiates, when on the way it is careful not to fake the raw materials, to be precise in the execution and always give another twist of flavors, small or large.

The meal described here was attended by four people.

Two of them reached quite seventy and ate little.

The other two were hungry.

Pricing represents, therefore, more than a typical double meal but less than a meal for four.

No one in 85/15 bothered that relative to four we ate less.

This, as mentioned, is the spirit of the place.

Ordering a glass of wine with bread and butter would also be welcome.

We live in a reality of absurd, really dystopian restaurants;

Main course is priced at 170 shekels, first over 70 and dessert close to 60.

This is a reality where every outing to dinner has become an event that people from the locality are obligated to think about more than once and sometimes give up.

In this reality, places like 85/15 where you can also eat less and whose pricing is more sane thanks in part to the simplicity of the operation, are the real oasis.

Not only do these places have to go out, it will have to be the model that the scene will have to aspire to if it is a desire for life.

After too many weeks of indescribable suffering in the service of the section, how pleasant it is to eat well again.

invoice:

Crispy lettuce - 56

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