Tel Aviv EAT Festival: Aharoni's burger, and all other equal dishes
Spoiler: Tonight you are all about to pounce on him, and rightly so
Monday, 23 May 2022, 08:00 Updated: 08:03
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At favorable and non-Tel Aviv prices.
Tel Aviv EAT Festival (Photo: David Bar Sela)
It's 11:03 in the morning, and at least seven different people around me have already done the exact opposite of what they demonstratively stated just a few minutes earlier.
The seven, including Israel Aharoni, his daughter Tamara and his son Uri, stand in the chef's Tel Aviv home and look at a formidable butcher knife - a hybrid between a wide ax and a machete of cartel assassins - making its way to the cutting board.
Two rolls are waiting there, cradling two burgers that have just come off the pan.
The cut is deadly, from top to bottom in one smooth motion, leaving four patties of a patty sandwich, and the same people who just broadcast to the world, and to the kitchen, that "it's too early for a hamburger," and "only you will taste."
Light smoke still mixes in the air - a not-so-sexy combination of grilling and cigarettes.
The evocative sound of the pan ceases, making way for the quiet of eaters here.
11:05, and my half hamburger is just a near-distant memory of flavors and juices.
In a few hours, half a block of Dan will feel the same.
In a few weeks, the line will move to Ganei Tikva.
In a few months, I guess, there will be no choice but to please the audience with more, and more and more.
Aharoni's hamburger, very nice.
Sexy rotisserie, an even sexier sandwich
When Aharoni makes grilled chicken
To the full article
Sharpened, polished and accurate.
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This is a sharpened, polished and precise work, anchored in good meat and with a "transparent dress" in her wardrobe, as defined by Aharoni
About a year and a half after a long corona-delivery conversation with him, and almost a year since the family's successful butcher chain expanded on Sheinkin Street to a rotisserie chicken stall, Aharoni is turning to the next natural step - a hamburger.
It is a sharpened, polished and precise work, anchored with good meat and a "transparent dress" in her wardrobe, as defined by Aharoni, in the form of aioli, tomato, pickled onion and delicate emmental cheese, and as part of a general aspiration to "not ruin the taste of meat".
Respectively, you will not find noisy additions here, nor any viral aspiration that sums up a story instead of a bite.
Half a burger after, I can tell it works.
The rolls are successful, the fruit of a long process of filtration, and manage to be present at just the right amount of exposure.
The aioli gives a light kick that is easy, joins the vegetables and then everyone changes position at once, making room for meat and cheese.
This dish will be launched this week as part of the Tel Aviv EAT Festival, and will then become the focus of the new branch of the new butcher shop in Ganei Tikva.
A huge, timed and sweetened roasting machine (the promise says 67 seconds until the perfect hamburger) will replace the homemade striped pan, but the bottom line will be the same - meat, and Aharoni, which is enough.
Aharoni's hamburger (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
Bite instead of story.
Aharoni's hamburger (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
The huge culinary event at the Charles Clore Garden in Tel Aviv rides, of course, with the launch of Aharoni, but at the same time offers dozens of restaurant stalls, food trucks, chefs and other delicious dishes at affordable and non-Tel Aviv prices of NIS 25-40.
There will also be a Greek tavern and a live performance stage, a DJ’S complex and more relaxed seating areas on the shoreline, but we are here to talk about food.
So what else will be here?
Haim Cohen's "Dixie" and "Philadelphia" will sell wings and home fries, of course, but also sandwiches and cheesecakes, while his "Jaffa Tel Aviv" will sell gyros and knapsacks.
The sympathetic "Tash and Tasha" will bring Khinkali and Khachpuri, Mexicana and Agadir will make Mexican and hamburger, respectively, and Dalida will take her excellent skewer spur to the water.
A culture of abundance.
Tel Aviv EAT Festival (Photo: Haim Yosef)
Next: Wong and Nini Hachi will attack from the east, "Greek Salon" will tickle leek pancakes and his version of gyros, while Rachel Ben Elul will bring her spatula.
The stall at Mesa Restaurant will sell salmon and soba noodles, pumpkin and also Kaunas truffles, Guy Gimzo Maria and Nonuno's addictive milk rolls will star with versions of shrimp, mac and cheese and salted pretzel mascarpone, and OLE Asido from OLE will be admiring goose market kataif and cigars.
There will also be The Blue Rooster and Beyond Meat, Eli Ramla's Great Show House Bike Show and Tunisian Sandwich, "Burton Carrefour" and Manel Ismail, but you get the point, and the internet also has a limit to detail.
Tel Aviv Eat Festival, Charles Clore Garden, Tel Aviv.
Monday-Thursday, May 23-26, 6pm to 11pm.
More details here