Trigger: There is a new and especially worthwhile meat destination in Tel Aviv (yes, we are also talking about the price)
If the place makes its own mustard, how the hell do you think it invests in steak?
Yaniv Granot
20/06/2022
Monday, 20 June 2022, 08:00
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Increase in value.
Trigger (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
I have no idea how much an apartment at 21 Montefiore Street in Tel Aviv costs.
The building is brand new, well located in the heart of the city and nestled down a street that starts crowded and squeaky, but flows relatively quickly into two lanes, scattering in the air a promise of sea, and salt flavors.
The small balconies that come out of the floors require, if you are not in the business of total exhibitionism, a certain dress code, but there is relative intimacy, and very reasonable quiet given the location.
Oh, and there is also parking.
I do not know how much the hood of "Trigger", the new meat restaurant that was located a few weeks ago on the ground floor of the same Montefiore 21, costs, but in my experience, it is big, huge money, and a critical element without which, in fact, there is no restaurant.
As you can understand, I'm not a man of accounting or real estate, but there are certain things that anyone can understand while waiting for two chairs on the hottest bar in town right now. With him a deal, which concludes a mutual but simple coupon cut - more of that smell into my porch> more value to the apartment.
Mandatory station
Only one thing was missing in the Carmel market.
Up to now
To the full article
Meat models.
Trigger
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By sitting outside you are actually turning yourself into meat models for passers-by.
And yes, they stand up again and stop the car.
You too would behave like that in their place
The people behind "Trigger" - Uri Raz, Itai Bitton, Nadav Ramot, Chen Yaish and Sagi Trigger, five partners who also do, among others, "Pat Cao" and "Coco Bambino" - entered the beautiful space itself of "David and Yosef", and declared That they will be content with "light cosmetics."
It was, as one might guess, a very innocent declaration of intent.
In place of the cosmetics was received something that is a bit of London and a bit of New York, who came to Sublet a short summer in the country and decided to stay.
The façade is very beautiful, and very unusual, probably given the prevailing restaurant standard that often leaves you wondering what exactly is going on in this space, where the sign is, and why a place of food makes such a big effort to close itself to the street.
Part of the front is an outdoor seating terrace (although sitting there you actually turn yourself into meat models for passersby. And yes, they stand up again and stop the car. You too would behave like that in their place), and inside there is a fun bar (and very comfortable, chairs and height of Chairs and angle of chairs, someone thought of that here as well), a sort of grandstand overlooking the action, and also a lower floor that will soon become another bar, but underground, with talk of a dedicated menu and more craziness.
Including homemade mustard.
Trigger's Sheitel (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
The reputation has already been established.
Trigger Bread and Butter Butter (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
The middle, which is both the beginning and the end, is the flesh.
It may not make sense trigonometric, but it is very true when you start eating
The heart but, properly, is an unholy trinity but one that gets you down on your knees eventually, praying for more - Nissan Alhasov's relatively open kitchen ("Mantten"), the formidable meat refrigerator created by Yankele Shane and slicing one red.
The first vertex is actually a hot dance, on the erotic border, between the plancha and the hands of Alhasov and his cooks.
The latter is an equally hot red machine located right in front of the entrance, in what is probably the most justified Feng Shui move that has been here in a long time.
And the middle, which is both the beginning and the end, is the flesh.
It may not make sense trigonometric, but it is very true when you start eating.
Bite from mom, and dad.
Trigger's Short Rib (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
As stated.
The puree of Robuchon and Trigger (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
"It, exactly that, was our dream, and it came out just the way we wanted. Exactly."
"We thought and tried everything and thought more and tried more, until it was the way we wanted it," recalls Trigger, the restaurant's meat man.
He opens the morning with Alhasov on an undefined tour ("talking food and seeing food and thinking food") in the Carmel market, simultaneously supervising the restaurant's northern cattle pasture, conducting a constant rhythmic dialogue with everyone involved and in his free time fantasizing about his next plancha shift.
I try to put it all in for 24 hours, weigh the intense opening and the kids who have so far only worn phone figures, and lower the sleep hours more and more, and still not understand.
"Yesterday I finished here, and with the adrenaline I was only able to fall asleep at three, three and a half," he described.
"My wake-up call was at six-thirty, but I'm not complaining. It's our time. Now. It's like a trip abroad - you're there 24-7 and slowly landing back."
Trigger's eyes are shining.
The smile is wide.
The traffic is smooth in the corridors and through the doors, on the stairs and in front of the customers.
"That, that's it, was our dream," he explained, "and it came out exactly as we wanted. Exactly."
Picnic in a bun.
Trigger's hamburger (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
Masterpiece.
Trigger's hamburger (Photo: Walla !, Yaniv Granot)
The menu is very tight, one small page of self-confidence and countless refinements
So what do you actually eat here?
The dream of Trigger and his associates is poured into a very tight menu, one small page of confidence and countless refinements.
"I know I must not fall in love with any dish we make and bring to review," he laughs, "because only a few pass the test and actually reach customers in the end."
It opens, naturally, with "Beginnings" - toast with "butchers' butter" (which has already established a respectable reputation throughout the city) and hot pepper made on the spot (26 shekels), Spitz Sheitel cold-pressed, spectacular in its colors and very deep in flavors, with mustard ( For, you prepare on the spot, you start to understand what's going on here, right?) And olive oil (NIS 49), Sheitel tartare and also short rib (NIS 39), which does kindness to the decomposed meat obsession that has developed here in recent years, but also buries it, with long cooking Very, whose products are stacked with aioli and hot pepper on a triangle of toasted bruschettas, delivering one of the best bites I have eaten recently.
A dedicated vegetable plot is based on the organic farm of the group members in Hukok, and turns on its head the familiar working mechanism here.
"Instead of seeing what's there and starting to build a dish from there, I ask in advance for some vegetables, lettuce with sweetness or cucumber and tomatoes like I used to, because I know what I want to do," Trigger explained.
The result is a roasted kohlrabi and a Caesar salad with feta cheese and fresh capers (56 shekels), for example, or a purple endive dish and also what is defined here as "tomatoes", and in fact a salad with shallots and chervil and spiced olive oil.
Restraint, maturity, quality.
Trigger's meat (Photo: Giphy, Yaniv Granot)
The meat wing also refrained from rampaging.
And yes, I'm also talking about price
The meat wing - from a dedicated breeding of mature Holstein cows - adds restraint and also avoids raging.
And yes, I'm also talking about price.
There's sirloin and prime rib here, both aged on the bone (48 shekels per 100 grams, about half of what we used to pay here), beef fillet ("Today there is none, for example," said Trigger, "but there are lots of other things, because we buy mountains The whole cow, and we know how to make everything out of it "), a variable portion of T-CUT, weighing 220 grams (79 shekels), and also a picnic-based hamburger and a cheese dripper (75 shekels), which was, in no way, an indispensable way to write it - the best I ate in Israel .
Apart from these, there is a thinly sliced Denver-cut, which manages to prove how far 120 grams of mighty meat can go, and a slightly different "delmonico", in a skewer and not as a slice, with depth and mind and hand, and heart.
Next to the meat there are chips close to perfection, "mashed potatoes" is invested, roasted leeks and a green salad of course.
Finally there is a pair of desserts in the form of a thick and delicious bitter chocolate mousse placed on analgesic cream, as well as a cheesecake, and above all hovers a wine menu that has undergone a tough selection, and cocktails brewed to accompany everything in solidity (but with a smile on your face).
Passion and sparkling eyes.
The people of Trigger (Photo: Shai Ashkenazi)
The working method of the "Trigger" people, and their philosophy, to use a less palatable but more accurate word, begins in the clean air of the Golan Heights and ends hundreds of miles south, in a dish just wiped with bread from any liquid that has been on it for the past two hours.
This track includes thinking about violations and a brave attempt to talk about morality in this context as well.
"Look, we do not hide anything here, in the end I am a person who sells meat," Trigger explained, "but I am not willing to buy a cow that was flown here and suffered in agony, for example, and when I do buy - I respect it by not throwing anything. For a plate at the end - with a hamburger or a skewer, a slice or a stew. "
This mechanism also allows for a jaw-dropping account at the end of the night, but in a good section, and also in districts like wine, for example, where it was possible to fear exploitation, because it is still a Tel Aviv restaurant.
All this - the entrance and the machine that is deployed, the refrigerator and the chair of the bar, the temperature of the plancha and the air conditioner, the meat and what is next to the meat - indicates passion and explains the sparkling eyes.
It's not cosmetics, it's a dream.
"Triger", Montefiore 21, Tel Aviv
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meat
steak
hamburger
fillet
