Eaters go
Zope Americano: a little bit of Italy, a little bit of America, a little bit of Israel, and we have a perfect schnitzel
The best pop-up of the summer has just started, and we're already fantasizing about extensions
It will yield money
07/24/2022
Sunday, July 24, 2022, 08:00
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Dirty maps warning.
Zopa Americano (Photo: Noam Frisman)
"You, Uh… Gonna Eat That?"
(Christopher inquires with Tony about the plans regarding the half-eaten Toblerone in his hotel room)
The last binge, and who-knows-how many, of the Sopranos sharpened quite a few past insights, managed to reveal more hidden details that somehow did not appear in the previous viewings, and articulated one simple truth - It's hard to watch the intricacies of New Jersey's bakery on a full stomach, and it's just as hard to watch them on an empty stomach.
For all the
Eaters on the Go columns, Carmella's casseroles and Polly and Chris's life-saving ketchup pouches, Maddo's finger-smearing French toast and Mario Batali's beans - they were all brewed into the plot by an artisan's hand, over low heat, then bubbling, then at scalding temperature, but Even in cooking that leaves no room for sophisticated interpretation.
Food - preferably with stains of tomato sauce on a red checkered tablecloth - is life, and without it it would not be a life worth living.
Also in Jersey, also in Tel Aviv.
Big balls of fire.
Zopa Americano's meatballs
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"Zope Americano" is corrupt like Tony, hungry like Tony and will end at the end of August just like Tony - one black diagnosis, and many confused people who will want more
"I Love You, Too, Johnny Cakes"
(Vito falls in love with Jim, Vermont and Jim's pancakes in Vermont)
15 years of "Zope" in the north of Ibn Gvirol Street in Tel Aviv - 15 only in official calendar terms, which are 50-60 years At least in terms of the local food world, the years of a small dog on them - left their mark on everything worth leaving a mark on.
The anchor is still the soups, and "Zupa" is one of the few places in the city where you can find those that are not a menu compromise but a varied and appetizing collection (yes, even in this humidity).
But when the temperatures rise, the head usually doesn't think of bubbling soup, and tends to sail in memories and nostalgia.
These memories led Ofer Elmaleh to his childhood in New Jersey, on its big tables and equally big plates, and a pep talk with his partner Kobi Bendalek lit the fire for good.
The result is "Zope Americano", an Italian-American-Israeli pop-up as corrupt as Tony, as hungry as Tony and one that will end at the end of August just like Tony - one black diagnosis, and many confused people who will want more.
More in Walla!
The show that stops the Carmel market does not intend to stop
To the full article
Farthest from Ibn Gvirol.
Zopa Americano (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
Juicy, deep, summery.
Zopa Americano's chicken (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Oh, and there is also wine, red and white, 24-40-74 per glass-kraft half-liter-bottle, the prices of the Sopranos 1999, and not the holidays 2022
"Add A Little Butter"
(Ralphie teaches Jackie Jr. a pasta lesson, and life is important)
The menu is real, unlimited, invested and paints you deep red already during the deliberation.
There is a plate of Italian sausages, arancini and melanzane, caprese salad and focaccia for starters, four mains (as of now, the specials are already being made) in the form of chicken parmesan, meatballs in tomato sauce on focaccia, chicken cacciatore and baked ziti ( How could it not?), and two desserts - Tiramisu and Spoliatella.
Oh, and also wine, red and white, 24-40-74 per glass-kraft half-liter-bottle, the prices of the Sopranos 1999, and not
the holidays 2022. All of these can be put together in a modular fashion, as you wish, or go for "family style", an evening deal Fun that sends to the table tastings of all the starters and one main course for the middle, for NIS 99 per person.
We, being us, ate almost everything and just called it a deal.
The life that could be here
meat?
cheese?
Who cares when there is such a tabon, and such food
To the full article
Three colors, three textures, and eliminated.
Zopa Americano's caprese (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
including the "above".
Zopa Americano's baked ziti (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
"The Secret To My Eggs? Sour Cream"
(the moment that almost made us like Ralph, but only almost)
First, the firsts.
A large rectangle of focaccia (NIS 22) was placed on a cutting board next to a drizzle of balsamic olive oil, confit garlic and plump olives, and provided an addictive, sweet and warm carbohydrate start.
Walking and walking, and it's time to continue (but also to return, of course we will return).
Caprese salad (NIS 42), colorful, simple and fresh, join.
One fork, three colors, three textures, and eliminated.
The arancini (NIS 26 for 2 units) were placed on a thick tomato sauce, large, fat-free from frying, and still hot.
The fingers fell apart, and the filling was less cheesy-stretchy than we are used to, but optimally seasoned, and tasty enough so that we don't think about cheese again - until the mains.
Cheese mind breakers.
Zopa Americano's arancini (photo: Noam Frisman)
In the end the bite is received.
That is, a fork that has taken all it can take and is making its way to the mouth in a sloppy manner and with expert skill.
Red and white, green and flesh.
A tear for Tony and a tear for Polly, and a smile
"No Fuckin' Ziti?"
(AJ responds to Grandma Livia's birthday taping, with the correct proportions)
On.
A messy pile of baked ziti (54 shekels for the vegetarian version, 68 for the meat version) joined the celebration, by all accounts.
The implication is, naturally, soft layers of pasta and sauce, small islands of spinach and ricotta, heaped spoonfuls of beef ragu, and crispy-brown edges of "the top", those that got close oven time from their friends, and came out of it stronger, and much more in demand.
It was also the signal to return to focaccia, and to wipe.
Next, we also tasted chicken cacciatore (with peppers, olives, capers, potatoes and shallots, NIS 74), soft but not mushy, bitey but juicy, sour and deep.
The meatballs in tomato sauce (NIS 72) are served here on garlic and herb focaccia, dripping mozzarella and parmesan kicks.
The knife goes a long way from the green leaves to the sauce that collects below, meets quite a few levels of resistance, and manages to score everything with tenderness, and difficulty.
In the end the bite is received.
That is, a fork that has taken all it can take and is making its way to the mouth in a sloppy manner and with expert skill.
Red and white, green and flesh.
A tear for Tony and a tear for Polly, and a smile.
Last was the chicken farm (NIS 73), which was practically saved, with a lot of Parmesan in the breadcrumb coating, and even more tomato sauce and mozzarella on top and below it, on the sides and on the tablecloth and napkin, chin and cheek.
As dirty as it is delicious.
Dirty as much as I would put it in challah.
Professionalism of meat
One of the best burgers here, easily
To the full article
thick and brown.
Zopa Americano's tiramisu (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Dirty, and dirty.
Zopa Americano's chicken-farm (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
"What About My Bread?"
(Christopher executes a nasty but necessary bakery-bakery exercise)
The meal concludes with a home-made tiramisu (NIS 35), thick-mascarpone and brown-cocoa, and a locally bought version of spolitala, that shell pastry with many layers of crispy dough, ricotta-citrus cream inside And a decadent creamy dip on the side.
A last spoon dives into the glass, last crumbs are collected from the table, a last sip of red wine (cold, how fun it is not fixed here), and home.
The next meal: 2023.
Elmaleh and Bundelk raised a real New Jersey enclave in the chaos that is mistakenly still called "Tel Aviv" here.
The maps wait on the tables, the walls are shielded from the dust of the bluemilk workers, and even the playlist has been carefully assembled, with immediate suspects (Bon Jovi and Sinatra, but somehow not Springsteen, at least not from what I've heard, and Springsteen I can still hear) and rough.
All these, together with the relaxed atmosphere built-in "Zope", the smiles and the service, and the all-too-rare urban feeling of people who come to work, and eat, make the "Americano" a summer pop-up, which must expand into the fall, and then beyond.
Either that, or we'll be called Tony.
"Zope Americano", 138 Ibn Gvirol, Tel Aviv.
Sunday-Thursday 18:00-22:00, 03-6020291
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