Eaters go
Barbecue, Haifa: the competition for the best pita in Israel has been reopened
There are things that the epidemic destroyed.
There are things that the epidemic gave birth to
It will yield money
07/08/2022
Sunday, 07 August 2022, 09:00 Updated: 09:15
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Meat scientists.
Barbecue (photo: Anatoli Michaelou)
Two and a half years later, the corona virus still occupies an entire table on the outskirts of the Israeli food world.
She sat down there in February 2020, took out her laptop, connected a power cable and plugged in headphones - and since then she's still been drinking the same long espresso, and bitter.
30% of its price, by the way, she transferred directly to Walt.
she knows.
All the columns of "Eaters go"
so much time has passed, and her top waves are still the most demanding and influential customer in restaurants here, and everywhere in fact.
Reasonable service, even if not good, is grounds for engagement with the hostess.
Delicious food that will still be here tomorrow, and will not disappear in the dust of its own pop-up, is an event that only the Webb Telescope can record.
And let's not talk about the prices again.
It's a shame to get upset already in the second paragraph.
The waves of morbidity pile up, corona patients are disabled for two days (at best) without a single box of ice cream for medicine, new epidemics try to ride the trend, and it is ripe.
What was will not return, but what gnashed its teeth and was forced to exist, changed and flexed, became somehow also tastier.
What was dreamed and fought for, was reborn as the next Israeli food.
It's something in the air or the seasoning, and especially something in the people.
Like the people of "Barbecue" for example.
The intention of the waver.
barbecue
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The result of everything - the forest and the silence, the smoke and the fire, the food and the guys - is a "barbecue", a more advanced and more sophisticated version of those days, and tastes just like they dreamed of
Like the rest of us, Yotam Ben Ami took advantage of the epidemic and its closure to go out into the open air as much as possible.
Unlike the rest of us, Ben Ami's open air was the desolate Carmel forests, adjacent to his actual home in Haifa, and "Zafaririm 1", the old restaurant which is also his culinary business home.
It started as nature clearing the head, continued to light and non-committal picnics, progressed to larger barbecue meals with Yaron Vader, the chef of "Zafarir", and ended the way a good fire usually ends - meat scientists without goggles and with a smoked shirt, looking down on a grid Hot, and you wonder what else you can eat from it.
The result of all this - the forest and the silence, the smoke and the fire, the food and the guys - is "barbecue", a more advanced and more sophisticated version of those days, and tastes exactly as the fan intended.
Hamburger, pizza, pasta
Who said there isn't a perfect meal here?
To the full article
Let the coals do the talking.
Barbecue (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
memories only.
The barbecue joint (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Barbecue is a somewhat simplistic word.
It's also possible "an iron monster who takes pictures in her spare time for 'Pacific Rim 3'", or just, if you want to be precise and not exaggerate the absurdities, the most expensive fire infrastructure you've ever seen
The open space, adjacent to the mother restaurant, was carefully planned and designed with generosity (a rarity in our districts) towards both the employees and the customers.
There's enough shade and enough air for everyone, a nice amount of non-cheesy aesthetic thinking and a lot of operational logic, certainly if you take into account other skewers, or pita places that have made a career out of crowding you into rows before they sell you rows.
There is also, if there is no other way to define it, a barbecue.
But that's a bit of a simplistic word.
It's also possible "an iron monster who takes pictures in her spare time for 'Pacific Rim 3'", or just, if you want to be precise and not exaggerate the absurdities, the most expensive fire infrastructure you've seen outside the borders of Texas - three and a half meters of custom-designed brick and steel tangle, with a crane of course .
Obviously a lever.
The menu, in accordance with everything said here, is very simple - everything that can get on the grid, everything that is brave enough to approach the coals, everything that survives and is upgraded after the up-and-down of the wheels attached to the construction, goes into the pita or is placed on a plate.
And if this description alone doesn't put your car in D, let's dive even deeper, let's get hungry.
Meat, smoked, rubbed
Smoked meat: the show that stops the Carmel market does not intend to stop
To the full article
Prepare for an onslaught.
Barbecue (photo: Anatoli Michaelou)
She left behind only memories - and good memories of her pita being trampled under my non-deferral of gratifications
A basic chicken skewer for starters (NIS 40) received initial looks of indifference, which quickly changed to "Oh, actually a chicken can be very tasty when it's treated well, doesn't settle near the heat and retains juiciness."
She was accompanied by an excellent kebab (at the same price), seasoned with minimalism and demonstrating maximalism, and chicken livers (NIS 35), which I almost never order just like that, and here I had to check.
The test, no longer surprisingly, ended successfully, with chunks that were bitey but not sticky, juicy but not mushy.
All this baggage, along with a hot tomato salad, an even hotter pepper and onions with black smoke marks, placed on a plump pita and left its mark on it, allows us to take part in the most basic human action - carbohydrate alignment.
This mighty liver also marked the signal to switch to Jerusalem mixed pita (39 shekels, yes, these are the prices of Haifa, the city that is not Tel Aviv).
Join it with small bites of meat and onion, a subtle seasoning and a heaping spoonful of thick-bitter tahini on top, and below, and on the sides.
It was only the middle of the meal, and this pita was only supposed to be a two-bit test, but it left behind only memories - and good memories of a pita that was crushed under my non-deferral of gratification.
as simple as that
The most annoying sign in Tel Aviv has been replaced by a perfect Pad Thai
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The test was successfully completed.
Barbecue (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
wow
Mangal's brain (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
There are Friday meals in local houses that are their flagship dish.
There are skewers that try to imitate it, and there is "barbecue".
wow
further.
An oval tray led to a brain dish (NIS 58) and an aroma of seriousness.
The meat came off the heat in milliseconds, paired with a deep-red, tart-sweet stew of peppers and tomatoes and chickpeas, sprinkled with greens on top, and hugged by a soft challah bun on the side.
There are Friday meals in local houses that are their flagship dish.
There are skewers that try to imitate it, and there is "barbecue".
wow
The roasted vegetable portion of the menu provided a worthy energetic counterpoint to this whole story, with a soft potato (15 NIS), a sweet potato (at the same price) that somehow managed to be both assertive and delicate, and a beetroot (also 15 NIS) that parted from the coals just as soon as they no longer served it Loyal
These, together with mushroom-cauliflower-eggplant options and a salad from Shvea, together build a vegetarian pita menu far beyond what it should be, and meat abstainers should run here as well.
We, on the other hand, dared to continue.
The life that could be here
meat?
cheese?
Who cares when there is such a tabon, and such food
To the full article
A fish of benevolent invitations.
Barbecue grill (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Just salmon?
Barbecue (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)
The competition for the best pita in Israel has opened and closed
A dish of veal almonds (NIS 58) also came on a plate, to save carbohydrates and allow us more of everything.
It was an excellent choice, again revealing the hand of grill champions, and a rare bite to get almonds that weren't wasted on grilling ineptitude.
From the fish, we ordered a salmon skewer (NIS 65) and pita with bream fillet (NIS 55).
The first one was indeed "just" salmon, but that's *only* if you mean that it was fat and rotten, juicy and falling apart flake by flake with the lightest touch of a fork, revealing a pink color and marks of a hot grill.
The pita provided more of the same professionalism - a fish prepared for a fashion show, inside a soft and warm dough, lots of greens and a yellowish sauce which is all the sauce we want from here on out.
The competition for the best pita in Israel has opened and closed.
It was, along with homemade arak, pickled olives in a self-assault, and roasted nuts in a caramel-coconut shell, the highlight, and beyond.
But I hope that was just the beginning.
Professionalism of meat
One of the best burgers here, easily
To the full article
The positive wave of the corona.
Barbecue (photo: Anatoli Michaelou)
At the table next to us, a cheerful and enviable group of pensioners ordered whole lebarak fish, NIS 69 per piece, from the grill to the plate.
I volunteered to pass the dishes to them from the counter, so they wouldn't get up, God forbid, but also so that I could carefully examine how this dish happens, how its price happens, and the least suspicious way I could grab it on the way to the car.
They followed me with their eyes, smiling but alert, and did not leave until the task was completed.
A second after that, they were already back in the capital, raised the "cheers" of a lunch without a working day, and started working with their hands.
If I were in their situation, I would change the address at the Ministry of the Interior to table number 4, and start receiving mail here, and family members who want an inheritance.
Until then, you just have to go back, and go back, and go back.
"Barbecue", Moriah 54, Haifa.
04-8324244
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