As in a cafe, as in a restaurant, as at home: the perfect meal by Keren and Itzik Kadosh

That money will buy you far fewer things today in almost any restaurant in town, and very little glimpse of their marvelous distortion tango

It will yield money

08/17/2022

Wednesday, August 17, 2022, 08:00

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Regulate breathing.

Kadosh family home (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)

like at home.

The dinner table of the Kadosh family (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)

The home kitchen of the Kadosh family in Jerusalem is bustling.

According to Keren, the official definition of their roles was that "Itzik cooks, and I'm a sous chef", but from the outside it looks like everyone is doing everything, and both are doing much more than they thought would happen when they agreed to it.

Itzik cooks, right, and she is indeed a sous chef (who is clearly overqualified for her tasks), but there are also three cooks and two waitresses from "Cafe Kadosh" who came to lend a hand, one true friend who came to support and works the hardest of all, and a double-digit number of shell people trying to help, pour, serve, tick.

In the end, as expected, they do what shell people usually do when behind-the-scenes work materializes into the scenes.

That is, you look at the clock with a worried look, shrink your eyebrows and pupils, and hope for the best.

It works.

Good things happen.

Crates of food are placed everywhere that Kenai, the family dog, a beautiful Akita who justifies his Japanese roots, but rightfully spices them up with a craving for dough and people immediately does not reach Israel.

Bottles of wine and green leaves, vegetables and a colorful and wide collection of bottles of olive oil mixed ahead of time with something else.

But mostly pastries, and a lot of them.

Croissants and brioches, puffs and strips of crispy puff pastry, in large cartons piled on top of each other, then slid aside and moved with the foot and taken to another corner, only to end up as the most beautiful design item that wasn't supposed to be a design item at all.

At least two vacuum cleaners are plugged into the charging socket on the east wall of the kitchen, forcing passers-by into a constant last-minute-skip pirouette.

At the height of the evening, Keren swears by the abilities of the "vacuum-washer".

I look around, multiplying X diners at Y meals, 4 teenage kids and guests as far as the eye can see, and hope she's right.

From the little I have come to know about her, she is surely right.

Why not every Friday?

Kadosh's fish pot

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If you compare the quantities of food, its quality, and the wine poured into glasses continuously to a routine evening in a Tel Aviv restaurant, the whole business suddenly becomes a market-breaking deal.

seriously

This is the first meal in the "Casa San Pellegrino" project, which connects local chefs with curious diners, into luxurious and delicious, but mostly experiential, home meals.

Everyone has already eaten at Ran Shmueli's "Claro", and knows well the "Brothers", "Ivy" and "Doc" by Assaf Doctor.

Not to mention "holy coffee" in Jerusalem.

Now try to imagine yourself standing in front of the private home door of the food people who move these places, knocking and entering, and you will understand why I lingered last week for more than fifteen minutes in front of the entrance, trying to regulate my breathing and pulse, without success.

The three meals are held in two sessions (18:30 and 20:30) sociable and still intimate for 16 people, and cost NIS 800 per couple.

It's a lot of money objectively, but it starts to pay off very well when you treat it as a once in a lifetime experience.

If you compare the quantities of food, its quality, and the wine poured into glasses continuously to a routine evening in a Tel Aviv restaurant,

seriously.

800 NIS will buy you much less things today in almost every restaurant in the city, and very little glimpse of the marvelous distortion tango of the saints.

So, apart from the food and wine, this money actually eliminates a visit to the cinema for Almodovar's new path and also this relationship coach that you always wanted to take and were debating.

inside the temple

A Jerusalem legend that is connected to it

To the full article

Croissant from below, elimination from above.

Kadosh's ceviche (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)

A little Italy, a little Israel.

Kadosh's green salad (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)

In perfect timing with the question marks that are starting to appear on our faces because we haven't had any carbs until now, long triangles of croissant dough are served, topped with red tuna ceviche with enough ingredients to later build an Ikea dresser

The meal - "mish mash" of Friday evening at the house of the Kadosh family, with the food of the cafe and the food that is going to be in the cafe after the most anticipated renovation in the city finally happens - opened with a green salad, which to call it a "green salad" is a bit insulting.

It had crispy leaves, of course, but also salty and refreshing Bardi granita, creamy burrata and a sauce lurking in the bastards below to secure everything on the fork.

After that, in perfect timing with the question marks that are beginning to appear on our faces because we haven't received any carbohydrates until now, long triangles of croissant dough are served, with red tuna ceviche on top of them with enough ingredients to later build an Ikea dresser.

A little coffee, a little restaurant, a lot of flavor.

pastries

Pastries everywhere.

Kadosh's surprise box (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)

Mother Earth.

Kadosh's polenta (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)

The huge, round and tall brioche was a tastier version of any kugelhof you've eaten, more special than any Shabbat chalat, and smarter than any "bread portion" you've paid too much for in recent years in our country's restaurants

The appetizers were smoked cauliflower on labne and a great almond cream, with a kicking green salsa and crunchy almonds, and also a kind of colorful earthquake in a bowl - polenta made from fresh corn that was filtered when we were standing in traffic jams, ravioli, mushrooms and asparagus, and also pistachios to roughen up the delicacy, and break the routine.

There - "intermediate", as I recall, yes?

- We had already reached the threshold of our capacity, and it was funny because that was also the moment when a tray arrived in the center of the table with a huge, round and tall brioche, a tastier version of every Kugelhof you've ever eaten, more special than any Shabbat challah, and smarter than any "bread dish" you've paid for Too much in recent years in the restaurants of our country.

Inside (and when I say "inside" I mean *inside* the brioche, an inherent and inseparable part of the dough) there was confit garlic and olive oil and pieces of figs, and also a buttery warmth that stains your fingers, but the kind that makes you give up the napkin and lick like you're not part of civilization,

Not even on the menu.

Kadosh's stuffed pot (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)

Creamy, crispy, smoky.

Kadosh's cauliflower (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)

A battered buttery brioche was apparently meant to mop up all that ruddy goodness, but it mysteriously disappeared as soon as it was placed on the plate, irretrievably lost.

Sorry, I'll try to check what happened to him and update

The main course, which was also served after a pot of perfectly stuffed meatballs made a very intimate acquaintance tour of the table without officially entering Therapit, was designated ahead of time as "Friday's Fishcake Pot", but that's only if you insist that these meatballs be from the sea, worked on with your hands and a knife, and give them all the time they need in the deep-thick-red sauce.

A battered buttery brioche was apparently meant to mop up all that ruddy goodness, but it mysteriously disappeared as soon as it was placed on the plate, irretrievably lost.

Sorry, I'll try to check what happened to him and update.

For dessert, an exciting shift was felt in the section of the doughy boxes, and an arrangement of plates began to organize itself on the central work island.

Crunchy millefeuille strips were placed next to small shells of puff pastry, and behind it a 1:1 Michelangelo work of art took shape titled four succinct but satisfying words - holy horn sprinkle bag.

Four words are enough.

Keren Kadosh (Photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)

Cafe, restaurant, house.

Itzik Kadosh (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot)

Six minutes later, the renaissance result of all this work - pistachio puff and millefeuille caramel pâtissière, thanks for asking but I somehow had room for them - is placed on the garden table, while the guests of the second meal settle for round two.

The glass doors are moved, closed and partitioned between the groups.

One is laid low, supplied and rolled on patio chairs.

The second is alert, hungry and expecting a similar experience at the very least.

I look from the outside at Keren and Itzik Kadosh, wondering where the energy will come from for the second play and how the hell they will do it.

A few seconds later, the answer comes - verbal, direct, and the only possible one.

"Hello, I'm Keren and this is Itzik," she says with a smile, "Welcome to our home."

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