Crooks, writers and whores: longing for Daniel Rogov
The legendary wine and restaurant critic, passed away twelve years ago.
Kobi Kleitman misses the man who created a new type of writing in Israel and became an object of criticism in his own right
Kobi Kleitman
14/09/2022
Wednesday, September 14, 2022, 5:10 p.m. Updated: 6:05 p.m.
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In the last few days, at least once a day, the name Daniel Rogov popped into my head.
Rogov was one of those whom I knew for a short time, but my two individual meetings with him and some of his statements in these meetings had such a profound effect on me that I still consider him a mentor to this day.
Today when I looked at the bookshelves in my study I again found myself in front of Daniel Rogov.
Wikipedia reminded me that he passed away 12 years ago, on September 7, 2011. Is it a coincidence that his character has come flooding back to me recently?
For those who believe in the mysteries of the universe, the obvious answer is probably not for nothing.
The late Daniel Rogov was the pen name of David Joroff, a wine and restaurant critic who left a real mark both in Israel and abroad. As someone who immigrated to Israel in 1976 from the USA, he began his career in Israel at the Jerusalem Post newspaper, but later wrote and translated 27 years for the Haaretz newspaper, the Shulchan, Yin and Gourmet, and more.
He also wrote books and the Rogov guide to Israeli wines as well as contributed his knowledge in the field of Israeli wine to books considered abroad. Beyond that, he was also the one on the basis of which the character of the critic Anton Ego was built in the wonderful film Ratatouille (so he told me).
Left a mark in Israel and abroad.
The late Daniel Rogov (Photo: Courtesy of 'The Grape Man')
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A real "mensch".
Some say that he created a new type of writing in Israel and there are those who claim that he did not necessarily taste the wines of which he wrote a review.
The success of a person and a breakthrough naturally attracts fans on the one hand and critics on the other, this is natural and logical.
One thing no one will be able to dispute is that the man was a real "man", a conversation with him was fascinating on the verge of romanticism, his knowledge crossed boundaries that many envied and his cordial personality stood out in a competitive and sometimes predatory field of journalism, wine and food.
In my most brazen way, when I wanted to start writing in 2008, but I didn't know anyone to show me the way, I wrote Rogov an email with several questions, thinking that the chance of an answer was zero.
To my surprise, he replied with these words: "Good questions all but each would take at least a small book to answer. May I thus suggest that email may not be the right format and that if you like we could meet for a long coffee and discussion on these issues..."
I was captivated by his charm, we met and the rest is history that resonates with me to this day
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To the full article
Reading List
Three of his books are on shelves and it is interesting to read them to this day: "Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines 2011" and the extended English version published after his death "The Ultimate Rogov's Guide To Israeli Wines 2012".
What is interesting is to read Rogov's opinions and reviews at the time and taste the development of the wines over the years, so that those who kept wines mentioned in these guides for the purpose of aging would do well to check Rogov's prophecies about them.
Just like an interesting game.
It is important to note that since his passing, some have tried to write alternative wine guides but have been successful for short periods or not at all.
The task is not easy, provoking criticism and expensive to perform.
On the other hand, the media has changed over time and the opinionatedness and criticality of each individual has taken the place of the "I know best" professionals, so perhaps the time for this type of guide in Israel has passed along with Rogov.
Their time has passed.
Rogov's wine guides (Photo: Kobi Kleitman)
Entertaining, intelligent and leaves a taste for more
Another wonderful book is a book written by Rogue in English and still available in stores such as Amazon - "Rogue, Writers & Whores, Dining with the rich & Infamous" The book was published in 2007 and after reading it several times I can recommend it wholeheartedly.
These are short stories/biographies of people whose culture, names or passion have been linked to the gastronomic world.
As the name of the book implies, some are writers, some are nobles, chefs, and others are crooks and dubious people.
Crooks, writers and whores.
Highly recommended (Photo: Kobi Kleitman)
Among the stars mentioned - Queen Elizabeth I, the Marquis de Sade, Giuseppe Tortoni, Madame de Pompidou, Emile Zola, Ernest Hemingway and more.
All of these are written in light and entertaining language alongside recipes some of which were named after those people.
Like Rogov, the book, despite the characters in it, is entertaining, intelligent and leaves a taste for more.
A fun and insightful read.
in his memory
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