On July 21, the LR deputy for the Alpes-Maritimes and quaestor of the National Assembly, Éric Ciotti, asked the President of the National Assembly, Yaël Braun-Pivet, to make it compulsory to wear a tie within the hemicycle, then targeting the “increasingly relaxed” outfits of certain deputies.
If in the Palais-Bourbon regulations, no regulatory provision obliges men to wear a jacket or a tie, in the face of the controversy, the "walker" called for everyone's responsibility to present themselves with "correct attire" .
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In video, tie at the National Assembly: "All clothing is political"
Symbol of conformism
This “Tiegate” surprised more than one.
No one would have imagined that the knotted could still create a controversy in 2022, as this accessory seemed to be disappearing from men's locker rooms.
Admittedly, for decades, the suit and tie has been the employee's uniform in a company, an essential – not to say mandatory – pledge of seriousness and elegance in many professional circles, such as finance or high administration.
But this imposed locker room ended up weighing.
Gradually, the tie has lost ground in the dressing room among
working men
.
In question ?
This symbol of conformity was first a victim of its (good) reputation.
Tech stars like Steve Jobs – and his famous black turtleneck Issey Miyake – have dismissed the accessory as too formal, not “cool” and creative enough.
Then the concept of “Friday Wear” gradually decorated and relaxed the looks.
And telework has only accelerated the trend even more markedly…
Three fashion tics to adopt for fall-winter
1. The crazy option of a tie tied on the hooded collar of a white shirt (Burberry).2.
The reminder of a tie coordinated with the folk print of his jacket (Etro).3.
The silk combo of a layered scarf and tie (Hermès).
Results ?
Even the big bosses are abandoning it: nearly one out of two CAC 40 general managers now pose without a tie when taking their institutional photograph, according to a study published in March by the Segalen et Associés firm.
“If the year 2022 was marked by the great return of the suit, of the desire for men to get dressed in an elegant way after the confinements, this is not yet the case for the tie, attests Elisabeth Miquel, director of men's shopping at Printemps.
His overly classic image still sticks to his skin.
Today, apart from certain professional obligations and the pleasure of a few aesthetes, the majority of sales of nouées are intended for wedding ceremonies.
Generation Z
So is the fate of the tie definitively sealed?
On the contrary, this fall, the accessory is reinventing itself under the impetus of a new male population in search of a more fun and offbeat look: generation Z. “Before the start of the health crisis, we already felt a rebound sales among young people, confirms Christophe Goineau, creative director of men's silk at Hermès.
The tie becomes an ally in the search for a different silhouette, the affirmation of one's personality, or quite simply the pleasure of bringing a more casual cool touch by wearing it for example on a polo shirt, which allows you to divert an accessory once very formal… The tie has become a new way to express your creativity.”
A feeling that Elisabeth Miquel shares: “With Instagram and influencers, young boys, who unlike their elders are big consumers of clothes and accessories, bring a real fantasy to fashion.
Wearing a tie with Bermuda shorts and a checked jacket, daring a floral model on a striped shirt… Nothing scares them, especially when it comes to bringing a little touch of humor to their look.”
And Christophe Goineau to add: “I have rarely seen any lack of taste in wearing a tie.
I would rather say a clumsiness, a touch of audacity, of provocation, or else a snub to something or an event.
In any case, the simple fact of wearing a tie is, in my opinion, a touching act.
The men's tie, queen of the women's wardrobe
After the costume, today women are seizing another highly virile accessory and a sign of male domination: the tie.
But there is no question of tying it in a consistent and classic way around a shirt collar.
It is worn with flowers on a silk shirt at Louis Vuitton, associated with a hypersexy red leather skirt at Gucci, integrated into a bodysuit at Sportmax or melted on a sand shirt at Rokh.
More than a fashion accessory, it is the stunning detail that signs a conquering allure.
Return of hype
Slipped under a sweatshirt at Burberry, cut like a shoelace at Celine or stitched with a flower-shaped pink glitter jewel at Kenzo: on the catwalks of designers for fall-winter 2022-2023, accompanying the rebound in costume , the tie is experiencing a certain return of hype.
Far from the businessman's office wardrobe, made up of more or less fitted trouser suits and more or less straight shirts, it is the sharp detail of the season which "pimps" the male silhouettes, worn as well on a casual outfit than in a sophisticated look.
“Classic, audacious, sentimental, whimsical, sporty… The tie has this extraordinary power of giving, at a glance, maximum information about the wearer,” explains Christophe Goineau of Hermès.
She is the
ultimate object which, by a color, a pattern, a material or a knot, reveals the personality traits, the intentions, and even the hobbies of its owner.
Balzac said: "The tie is to the toilette what the truffle is to a dinner."
A matter of good taste, then.