Tod's and style icons, with a catwalk in an apocalyptic scenario at Hangar Bicocca, between Anselm Kiefer's seven towers, which opens with Carla Bruni's stride and ends with Naomi Campbell, both with an iconic trench coat.
Walter Chiapponi, creative director of the brand for three years, has decided to focus on the word "icon", working on the recognizability of the garments and adding a touch of sensuality.
And to tell this new Italian style he wanted the two tops on the catwalk.
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Naomi and the other tops parade for Tod's - Lifestyle
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"It is an ideal of a woman that I like - she says - Not the idea of having a supermodel on the catwalk, but of having a character, a woman, even a little rock star but with an innate elegance".
It all starts with some shots of women from the 70s and 90s.
"I wanted to remove some of the rigidity that belonged to the brand", she says from the backstage next to a moodboard with images of women like Princess Diana, Maryl Streep, Madonna, Kate Moss.
"I worked on recognizing the garments, I liked to bring sensuality but in an aseptic world. - he continues - The show begins with tailoring, with the woman who represents what I like, this timeless chic".
The designer has worked on iconic garments and accessories, now reworked.
The symbol of this new world is the rubber, which is now called Bubble and takes the shape of a ballerina with a giant rubber sole and contrasting colors.
But there is also the iconic model, in an oversized leather biker version.
But here's the show: Kiefer's concrete towers (90 tons each) contrast the lightness of the looks.
Everything is light, sensual and at times even transparent.
Sartorial dresses (the jacket has oversized shoulders and wide trousers) and petticoats, masculine trousers combined with bustiers, mini knitted dresses, square dusters, soft knee-length skirts.
"In the garments there is a great work of volumes with treated jackets and straight, very regular shapes, we have taken a step forward in modeling",
concludes the stylist.
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