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Mazel Tov! Another new and casual place was born in Tel Aviv - voila! Food

2022-12-01T07:07:35.967Z


Avi Efrati, the restaurant critic of Walla! Arriving at Norder, a new restaurant bar in northern Tel Aviv, what did he think of the food? Read the full review >>


Norder (Photo: Assaf Karla)

The space at Dizengoff corner Nordau was known for years as the place where the Rum Service operated and in the last year Fishbon.

Recently, under the name Norder, a restaurant-bar that describes itself as drawing inspiration from French and Italian cuisine began operating there.

Norder's website tells about an "innovative interpretation of the great classics of food", led by Lior Cohen.



So many uninspired places, with a routine menu, are opening here lately.

Places of restaurateurs and chefs who, out of fear and caution, their only desire is to be like everyone else, to enter the playlist;

For the group photo of Suedi and Blaini Ha'ir.

But a playlist is basically, as everyone who has ever been around the worlds of music knows, it is the father of creative inspiration;

And moving on to culinary: places that only want to enter the group photo are a bundle of trouble.

This means that they give up in advance a conceptual infrastructure, based on DNA.



It's not that such places haven't opened here in the past, but it seems that now there are a lot more.

Unprofessional restaurateurs and untalented cooks/chefs were always here too.

But now, more than ever, economic anxiety also speaks loudly when building the concept.

Culinary interest, uniqueness, character - all these are pushed aside in favor of places whose captains just want to return home safely.



The new Norder aroused the suspicion that it also belongs to the genre, yet we came to it hoping for the best, even if it is good of the generic kind.

Culinary sophistication is not necessarily a derogatory word.

Culinary Sahiland can also be divided into at least two types: possible, not to mention sympathetic;

and unbearable.

The interior space in Norder is relatively small and the volume in it is excessive.

More like a bar or pub, certainly not like a restaurant bar that is somehow related to gastronomy.

In the outer space, the volume makes perfect sense, but the design factor in it is modest.

We sat outside and looked at the menu, which includes only "starters" and "middle", without mains.

The dishes, not even most of them, but all of them, belonged to the genre of the immediate suspects, the corner of the group photo of the restaurants and bars of the restaurants and our contemporaries.

Well, okay, well, then at least set them up for us properly please.

Choose the raw materials carefully, put them together well, be precise in the execution;

please.

Go ahead, let's start:



Sooty kohlrabi with Pinchas cheese

(NIS 38) and

sour tomato bruschetta

(NIS 38) were ordered from the beginnings department.

Charcoal kohlrabi with cheese is often served here.

The right of the first ones is reserved to collect a checked doctor.

Just as pop and rock are a world where quotes are numerous and legitimate, so is food.

It's just that you should respect, at least a little, the source.

The kohlrabi suffered from excessive softness, it almost fell apart on the fork, and it was flooded with far too many flavors that carried all the ends of the spectrum, mainly sour and salty, with too little cheese and far too much olive oil that is difficult to admire.

The bad kind of wannabe dish.



The bruschetta had sourdough bread (from Hagai!) with fresh, dried and burnt tomatoes on a baking sheet.

Reasonable intentions in an unpretentious dish that is also moderately priced.

Performance is barely mediocre.

The cheeses and the labne did not create any whole that is greater than the sum of its parts.

Sooty kohlrabi with Pinchas cheese in Norder (Photo: Assaf Karla)

Next:

Intias Sashimi

(64) and

Denver Cut Tartar

(54).

The sashimi had five tiny pieces of raw fish with pickled melon, horseradish root and tomatoes.

On the side came Chaser Gazpacho.

Oh, and there was also olive oil.

How much olive oil?

In the volume, the fish pieces had a kind of bath.

Who needs that much olive oil?

Culinary, no one.

Instagram?

Yes, it makes a good tonal contrast to the pink fish, with the red tomato.

In practice, there was no culinary sense in combining the ingredients and the gazpacho was homemade, without the added values ​​of a restaurant.



The Denver Cat tartar turned out to be a carpaccio and its additives - fermented mustard seeds and Orfa aioli, alongside toasted bread - did not do anything to it that additives usually do in such dishes.

Even the meat itself did not belong to the worlds of the elite type.



We continued to

mussels

(NIS 74) and

pizza brazaola

(NIS 58) and nothing new, surprising for a change for the better, happened.

The mussels were cooked so that they were juicy but the basic fish stock that held them together and gave them their flavor was loose and not cohesive enough.

The pizza, with tomato sauce, brazaola and rocket was the most banal imaginable.



It seems like we've eaten a lot so far, but we haven't.

The portions were small.

We ordered a last dish before dessert:

butcher's cut with beef stock, mashed potatoes and greens

(NIS 129).

If until now the food was moving and moving on various random points on the axis of probability, this piece came and woke us up from the continuous yawning.

The steak was so poor in quality, its searing to medium well instead of medium rare was so disgusting and its additions so haphazard, that it was left to define it not only as the worst dish in the current bad meal, but also as one of the worst meat dishes we have encountered in a long time.

In one word: atrocious.



Caramel milk cream with pecan crumble and pecan twill

(NIS 36) was the dessert.

There was no disaster, but neither was there a dramatic improvement over the baseline that characterized this meal.

Instagram is wow (Photo: Assaf Karla)

Bennorder promises to serve innovative interpretations of the great classics of food.

We looked for an innovative interpretation of something there, but in vain.

It's a restaurant bar where most of the dishes look like faded imitations of the generic original.

Even when you give up the wish for character and uniqueness and settle for a wish for normal performance only, it doesn't work.

There is too much vagueness in Norder and also raw materials that are not good enough and sloppy execution.

The sheer volume of empty pretension that we are forced to meet in the Tel Aviv restaurant scene lately is unusual, unfortunate and frustrating.



Another casual new place.



Norder, 245 Dizengoff Tel Aviv, 073-331-9417

invoice:

Hagai Sourdough - 38


Charred Kohlrabi - 38


Sashimi - 64


Carpaccio Denver Cut - 54


Mussels - 74


Pizza - 58


Sirloin - 129


Chocolate Crema - 36


Large Parella - 24


Espresso - 9


Demi Haliza - 65


Total: 589

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Source: walla

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