Martine Rose, the new queen of cool who shakes up the fashion transfer window

The name Martine Rose may not mean much to you, but her flowery surname is now on everyone's lips.

“She is one of the best creators of the moment”, recently affirmed Glenn Martens, the artistic director of Y/Project and Diesel.

And since the CEO of Louis Vuitton, Michael Burke, attended his last spring-summer London show, rumors have been swirling: will she take over the artistic direction of the men's collections of the luxury brand, left vacant since the disappearance of Virgil Abloh?

In the meantime, the British-Jamaican designer, who founded her own menswear brand in London in 2007, is the special guest at January's Pitti Uomo in Florence, the world's most renowned menswear show.

If all the lights converge on her this year, Martine Rose, 41,

In video, the Louis Vuitton fashion show by Nicolas Ghesquière

Miss Rose grew up in London, her mother was a nurse, her father an accountant, and she herself now has two children.

There is nothing particularly eccentric in the life of the woman who has embodied the London subculture since her beginnings, not taking any of the traditional paths – she parades outside the calendar in covered markets or primary schools – for her collections with an aesthetic that is always shifted.

A graduate of Middlesex University in 2002, she started out with a line of shirts, then developed a menswear wardrobe fueled by her obsessions with music and the multicultural diversity of the London scene.

To the handsome neat boys of the City, she prefers couriers, workers, club bouncers or

rave lovers.

Football uniforms and imagery feature prominently in his collections, as does work around unusual proportions and fabrics.

She also collaborated with Nike, notably by signing “unbalanced” sneakers and worked for three years as a menswear consultant alongside Demna Gvasalia, when the latter arrived at Balenciaga.

Read alsoThese women who dress for men

It is rumored that she gave birth, before anyone else, to loose pants and an oversized silhouette, going back the opposite way by shrinking all her clothes in the spring of 2021. She also revisited the moccasin before her time, stretching his in a somewhat clownish way.

“I'm interested in lots of different people.

And it's always with those who are on the fringes, in the corners and in the shadows, that I want to spend time", she declared during her last London show, whose collection, with sexual tension obvious, was presented in the underground district of Vauxhall, known for its gay nightlife.

His

and his quirky humor also give the wearer an aura of immediate cool.

Among her bestsellers is a pink T-shirt flanked by the inscription

, referring to Carlsberg's slogan,

.

Martine Rose, on her way to the summits?