Unpacking Zara or Primark orders, complete outfits for less than twenty euros on Shein, brand gifts -
"five to six parcels a day of clothes or cosmetics"...
Makeup and fast fashion collections are piling up in the bedroom by Marie Lopez, head of the EnjoyPhoenix YouTube channel.
The content creator's life is like a fairy tale.
With one exception: excess.
“I throw away most of the products
,” admits the Lyonnaise.
After eight years of overconsumption, it's too much.
In 2019, the influencer decides to stop everything.
From now on, EnjoyPhoenix promotes slow fashion: sustainable fashion that is more respectful of the planet.
Read alsoPrivate jets, fast-fashion … Influencers ordered to be less “bling-bling”
“EnjoyPhoenix's decision marked a turning point. By deciding to rely on part of its income, including its partnership with L'Oréal, which has made a large part of its economic model, it has created a real reflection among fashion designers"
, notes Emmanuelle Patry, founder of Social MediaLab.
Other fashion influencers are starting their ecological transition on the platforms.
Like @Sandrea, who, after seven years of fast fashion, highlights more ethical brands, or the You Make Fashion blog which now advocates second-hand.
Present mainly on YouTube or Instagram, Louise Aubery (@mybetterself) preaches a more responsible mode of consumption.
"By launching my lingerie brand, I started to learn about the fashion industry and I realized the extent of the damage
," says the entrepreneur.
Goodbye Asos, Boohoo or NastyGal.
Louise Aubery prefers more virtuous brands like Salut Beauté, which reuses old clothes to make new ones, or Prête, a luxury clothing rental service.
Green, the new color of influence
Eco-responsible clothing and cosmetics have started to make their mark on social networks.
The phenomenon has accelerated with confinement.
A new generation of influencers, focused on ethical fashion, has emerged.
@Lesbonnesappes, followed by 113,000 subscribers, shares good second-hand deals on TikTok and the influencer @claravictorya is now at the head of a thrift store.
Present on Instagram and TikTok, @emmaverdierkremer entered the niche less than a year ago.
“I hunt around France to offer second-hand outfits.
My goal is to make my community want to dress more responsibly
,” explains the former freelancer in communications.
The content creator makes sure to forge partnerships in accordance with her values.
"It's a personal process first and foremost.
But the audience on social networks is in demand for this type of content
,” she underlines.
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Internet users are also more critical of the partnership choices of certain influencers.
“Shein, an ecological and ethical ordeal”,
can we read under an Instagram post offering promotion codes from the Chinese ready-to-wear brand, responsible for 22% of CO2 emissions from French teenagers according to a Pixpai study.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfmHvlUBhIB/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
"Today, without being particularly aware of ecology, many Internet users complain about the bewildering number of contests and promo codes for fast fashion
", analyzes Amélie Deloche, co-creator of the collective "Paye ton influence".
On her Instagram account, she challenges creators with high visibility to encourage them to think about the ecological consequences of their activity.
The cost of ecological values
But defending eco-responsible fashion has a cost for influencers.
EnjoyPhoenix claims to have lost
“more than a third of its income”
.
In disagreement with its new planet-friendly image, several brands have turned their backs on it.
Same story for MyBetterSelf.
The entrepreneur announces that she refuses
“80% of the advertising partnerships”
offered to her.
Read alsoRise and fall of the empire of Magali Berdah, the popess of influencers
Emmanuelle Patry remains optimistic and believes in a potential evolution.
“We have to bet on the future.
We are witnessing a movement of funds in favor of virtuous fashion.
Driven by consumers, more and more fashion giants are going green.
Especially since other economic models exist
.
Crowdfunding, creation of planet-conscious brands, etc.
"As for a business, it's another way of making a profit
," enthuses Amélie Deloche.
With this in mind, Mybetterself has launched “Je ne sais quoi”, its eco-responsible lingerie brand.
However, the green movement is struggling to become a majority.
If the #haulfriperie hashtag has more than 7 million views on TikTok, its fast fashion counterpart, #haulshein, has nearly 2 billion.
"A handful of content creators have rectified their editorial line, but the big names have not changed their consumption patterns"
, points out the responsible communication consultant.
For example, Maeva Ghennnam, popess of influence, continues to promote ultra fast fashion to her 3 million subscribers.
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