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Trekking and military chic, high performance menswear - Lifestyle


Streetwear, which has dominated the catwalks for seasons ending up contaminating tailoring too, in decline? Among the over 700 brands on display at Pitti Uomo 103 - scheduled from 10 to 13 January in Florence - the new cool styles for autumn winter 2... (ANSA)

Is streetwear, which dominated the catwalks for seasons ending up also contaminating tailoring, in decline?

Among the

over 700 brands on display at Pitti Uomo 103

- scheduled from 10 to 13 January in Florence - the new cool styles for autumn winter 2023/2024 seem to be contaminated by new themes: primarily from

the world of the mountains

, hiking , trekking, adventures or high-altitude missions with high-performance garments or even with a


touch , then the

preppy style

loved by Jfk and Paul Newman with the colors of US college uniforms, but also the whole

sartorial genre revisited in a contemporary key


    On the one hand, the post-pandemic lifestyle certainly has something to do with it, which has led everyone to prefer days in nature, doing open-air sports such as climbing, trekking, cycling.

  Thus the world of hiking breaks into menswear:

colorful parkas and oversized down jackets triumph (at Herno they are in a pop-mountain key from the 80s and 90s), technical knitwear, multi-pocket trousers.

AlphaTauri's parkas are in natural tactile-looking fabrics such as wool, felt, teddy combined with nylon and Taurobran, a waterproof and breathable three-layer membrane, while at Ecoalf they are in recycled polyester mixed with yarn from the sea, created with plastic recovered from the seabed.


trench coat with detachable parts

i, raincoats, raw wool jackets with a tartan plaid pattern in orange and dark blue tones (Paul & Shark).

This world of

'performing' garments

then mixes with the military-chic one, as at Christopher Raeburn, famous for the re-appropriation of military fabrics and for the iconic outerwear created with discarded parachutes.

But above all

the padded field jacket is back in vogue


A garment that alone has

a history of over 50 years

: created by the American military for soldiers, therefore with a practically indestructible material (resistant, windproof, rainproof) and with large front pockets, it has become iconic above all thanks to those who have worn it on the big screen.

Who can forget Robert De Niro in Taxi Driver character?

Well, with F/W 23/24 we will see new fields in versions with patches and earthy colours, but always with a gritty approach (Blauer proposes it again in addition to the classic Ma1 bomber jacket and anoraks).

Influences from the preppy world also

arrive from the USA

, with the colors of US college uniforms (Sun68), the moods of football and basketball teams, then jacquard, wool with anti-drop treatments, velvets and denim, shiny nylon.

    Then there is the chapter

sartorial, which is enriched with an updated fit


The cornerstones of the repertoire are double-breasted jackets (Tombolini), wrap coats, knitted gilets, leather jackets.

The idea of ​​adding a contemporary detail remains strong.

At Avant Toi, for example, the Prince of Wales coats are turned upside down with colorful splashes.

Even the world of shirts is being renewed: new collars and re-editions of historical models (stripes, checks, melange colors at Xacus).

The casual style of the young Cruna brand evolves by looking at jazz clubs with relaxed shapes and fits for trousers, outerwear and waistcoats.

For accessories, the more special the better, such as the Federico hat, created by the Doria 1905 hat factory for Capitan Fede, the guitarist Federico Poggipollini who,

Source: ansa

All life articles on 2023-01-07

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