Gucci restarts with menswear after Alessandro Michele - Lifestyle

How Gucci will

restart without Alessandro Michele

?

Everyone was asking this on the eve of the first fashion show without the creative director who in seven years, from 2015, when he took over from Frida Giannini as a complete stranger, to last November, when he left office, has interpreted the spirit of the time like no other.

In Milan, an initial response, entrusted to the company's internal creative team, with the difficult task of collecting a heavy legacy, that of a creative who was the first to send gender fluid onto the catwalk not as a style but as a vision of life .

A message of freedom that has gathered around it stars like Harry Styles, Jared Leto and the Maneskins.

And that the maison has chosen to continue by exploring the idea of ​​improvisation as an aesthetic form.

A concept amplified by

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The new Gucci man - Lifestyle

(HANDLE)

But there is a change of pace compared to Michele, and it is immediately evident,

when a simple T-shirt and wide trousers, maxi bag and woolen hat come out on the catwalk as accessories.

Everything appears more direct, clean, focused, as if purified by the ex-creative director's maximalism.

The idea that accompanies the men's collection - which is back on show in Milan after three years - is

, leaving a freedom of choice that does not describe a single man, but many different forms of masculinity.

Thus, next to the wide trousers there are floor-length evening skirts, the oversized coats are accompanied by tank tops and minimal T-shirts, the ribbed wool hat is accompanied by the pinstripe suit with buttons on the sleeves of the blazer and on the trousers, which allow you to customize it.

The coat is oversized, even down to the feet, the double-breasted jacket has big shoulders and chooses pastel tones, the wide trousers recall the 70s while the slim ones, worn with ankle boots and socks, evoke the following decade.

Workwear inspired by the overalls is revisited by the Crystal GG, a glossy and coated interpretation of the monogram waxed fabric produced in the 70s,

also used for casual bags and soft booties.

Among the accessories, cases for clothes worn as shoulder bags, a reinterpretation of the moccasin with corduroy horsebit, vintage-looking scarves linked to the new Jackie in pastel crocodile or inserted into denim trousers.

that blend different influences, derived from archives and traditionally contrasting wardrobes: sportswear inspired by the 80s evokes the codes of dance, biker garments take up archival pieces from the early 2000s, faded denim trousers are decorated with the logo used by Gucci on the occasion of the opening of the New York store in 1953. Because even after the farewell of the designer who marked an era for the maison and for fashion, "we go ahead, the men pass - underlined the CEO Marco Bizzarri - the brands remain".

"I loved it" limited himself to commenting Francois Henry Pinault, owner of the Kering group, in the front row at the fashion show next to guests such as Nick Cave, Idris Elba,

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Dakota Johnson stars in the Jackie bag campaign by Gucci - Lifestyle

The Jackie bag has become an iconic model of Gucci, since its debut in 1961, with its constant presence on the arm of famous female characters, which has consolidated its association with an ideal of high society elegance.

(HANDLE)