Milan, Italy.
Prada's Fall-Winter 2023 fashion show (Photo: GettyImages, Getty Images)
After 22 catwalk shows, 40 presentations and 17 events, yesterday (17/01) the men's fashion week in Milan came to an end, presenting the Fall-Winter 2023 collections. Five days packed with back-to-back shows that hosted the world's leading fashion houses alongside intriguing local labels , and above all, they provided us with a good look at the new trends in the men's clothing category that you (at least some of you) will want to skim and try out in the upcoming season.
Summary of the first day: The leading fashion houses presented their FW23 collections at Milan Men's Fashion Week
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So what did we have there?
Gucci's Fall-Winter 2023 runway show marked the Italian fashion house's first independent men's show in three years, and even more so;
The first show after the departure of creative director Alessandro Michele (in November 2022).
And there were plenty of debuts at Milan Fashion Week - Marco De Vincenzo presented his debut collection for ETRO, while Charles Geoffrey Laverboy staged his first show outside of London.
But the fashion tidings were unquestionably provided by Fendi, Prada, Dolce Gabbana and Discord.
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Gucci opens men's fashion week in Milan;
and presenting for the first time since the retirement of Alessandro Michele, the iconic creative director
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The opening shot of Milan Men's Fashion Week was marked by the Gucci fashion house, which presented for the first time without Alessandro Michele, the super colorful androgynous creative director who retired last November, and it was evident.
The collection lacked coherence, and it did include several more expressive moments, but when the opening look consisted of a very basic white t-shirt combined with chino pants in an oversized silhouette - it became very clear that it was largely improvisation.
The fashion house even defined the collection, on its Instagram account, as featuring "different decades and contrasting aesthetics that inspired the Fall Winter 2023 men's collection."
After the (disappointing) opening, we were exposed to tailored but somewhat banal looks, and about halfway through, the collection developed.
There appeared pants with strategic rips in the knees (interesting actually), checkered wool pants, translucent knits, and up to women's bags in a vintage vibe in pastel colors.
Metallic pants tucked into blue boots, "work" style overalls were even thrown in.
A large mottled furry veteran - it is not entirely clear in what context or reason these arose and appeared.
More than anything, this was a collection that would be judged by what it didn't have, rather than what it did.
Up to this point in time, and with all the surrounding speculation, it has not yet been determined (or announced) the identity of the successor who will take over the position of creative director of the long-standing Italian fashion house.
Discord closes the first day of Milan Fashion Week with a collection marked: rodeo meets college style
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The fashion house
SQUARED2
which closed the first day, headed by the brothers Dean and Dan Ketan who celebrated 20 years in fashion, boasted a collection that took the mashup style to new heights.
An unapologetically maximalist collection, highlighted by Y2K-inspired silhouettes (which are still with us, yes yes) combined with motifs taken from the worlds of western and rodeo meets "college" style.
The models came in dressed in bomber jackets with western fringes or "feminine" tops, jeans decorated with tears and stars, and colorful cowboy boots.
In addition, excellent frilly coats, vests and cardigans, "deconstructed" flannel shirts, completely kitschy hats and belts with enlarged buckles stood out.
The boxers and briefs were outerwear, and the models included in the show wore transparent lace dresses and skirts.
Fendi's news for men: wrap capes, one-shoulder shirts and the lavender color!
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Capes, one-shoulders, cashmere and the color lavender dominated Fendi's Fall 2023 collection, which was all about "feeling great with fashion during the day but also at night" - according to Creative Director Silvia Venturini Fendi.
The collection was relaxed and playful, while some of the pieces radiated a relaxed elegant-chic, the shimmering pieces and especially the asymmetric ones, such as the top and button-down with one shoulder, echoed the disco era at Studio 54 somewhere in the seventies.
The touches of lavender, whether in oversized leather pants, jackets or cashmere knits, added a fresh touch to the mostly neutral color palette.
Logomania was also there, but sparingly (relatively speaking) and appeared mainly on large scarves and bags.
Dolce & Gabbana's "Essenza" men's fashion show echoes the essence of the brand - elegance, precision and sensuality
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Israeli pride: Israeli model David Salihov on the Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2023 menswear runway
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Focusing on "simplicity" over "minimalism," as the fashion house's designers stated,
Dolce & Gabbana
's fall 2023 collection —Essenza (which translates to "essence" from Italian)—featured tailored pieces in black, gray, and a touch of cream to finish.
But in the black and tailored sea of Dolce and Gabbana, not everything was really "simple".
Also seen on the runway were belt-like corsets, midriff-baring crop tops, a great coat worn over bare skin with just boxers, and flashes of fur and chiffon - all of which brought edgy sensuality to the fore.
The two looks that closed the show were a 180 degree turn from the dramatic opening - tailored suits with "feminine" and soft cream-colored jackets, with strong shoulders and accentuated waists.
And of course you can't ignore the Israeli angle!
Israeli model David Salihov also starred on the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk in Milan.
The Etro collection is a tribute to the roots of the fashion house - the material and the textile
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Marco Da Vincenzo's debut collection for
ETRO
, as the new creative director, paid homage to the textile culture of the Italian fashion house.
As such, she focused on soft and flowing silhouettes, chunky knits with playful details, while the tailoring was inspired by the romantic vision of the 70s, and featured bold fabrics.
The clothes combined soft and knitted fabrics into a somewhat pastel color palette, and geometric shapes or applications in the form of fruits and flowers.
Relaxed shoulders, oversized silhouettes, suits with bold tartan prints, vintage-style embroidered leather biker jacket - everything screams "comfort" that goes back in time, but with contemporary touches.
And another example of this are the skirts for men (a prominent trend this season), wooden clogs and the bags that were the highlight and were tucked under the arms.
Prada's menswear collection is: a further exploration of the fundamentals of fashion, championing the enduring meaning of
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From K-POP culture to pointed collars, these were the highlights of
Prada
's fall 2023 menswear collection. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada's collection was an "exploration of the basics of fashion" and emphasized simplicity and modernism.
The show opened when the models took to the runway in tailored suits with pointed collars in a variety of colors, and developed into fine performances.
Tailored blazers, bomber jackets - some fitted and some very large with an orange zipper, wonderful cardigans in a multitude of colors, tailored shirts tucked into colorful trousers, detachable collars, tight ties and even suede dresses were there.
The accessories are kept minimalistic, with the Prada logo embossed on the front (instead of the usual triangle logo that has starred in recent seasons).
The bags were undoubtedly a key item on the Prada runway as well, in black, brown, light blue and more - when some of them hung crosswise around the neck, like water bottles.
Giorgio Armani: It starts expected and ends surprisingly with strong looks from the ski worlds
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For us, Giorgio Armani and Dhruv Kapoor signed the men's fashion week in Milan.
Giorgio Armani
is without a doubt synonymous with luxury, a fashion house that offers sophisticated clothes with pure elegance and class.
In the Fall 2023 collection Mr. Armani presented beautiful menswear, in the most simplistic way.
Starting with subtle grays that soon turned into black and the multitude of shifting shades, with accents of bright red towards the end of the show.
On the runway were presented twill coats and checkered pants accompanied by velvet vests, furry tops in animal prints, varied cardigans, asymmetric wool coats, sweaters with monograms and leather combinations that offered a contemporary interpretation.
There were also hints of military inspirations, and aviator jackets worn with leather gloves.
If in the last part of the collection Armani had not switched to excellent ski clothes that combined the bright red, the collection would have remained in a position known in advance and without any news.
Dhruv Kapoor: the official refresher who closed the men's fashion week in Milan
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And we will finish with the official refresher of the men's fashion week in Milan, the show of the Italian brand
Dhruv
Kapoor
.
For the Fall-Winter 2023-4 collection, fashion designer Dhruv Kapoor, founder and creative director of his label, brought to the runway a vibrant mix of colors and patterns, harmoniously, and quite unusually, blending tradition and technology.
In doing so, he sought to create a new aesthetic for modern society.
From asymmetric tailoring to sloppy sweatpants, training suits to distressed denim.
He played with proportions and a wide variety of textiles, some recycled.
The collection proves that it is possible to be soft and fierce, traditional and contemporary, romantic and realist.
And such is the man of Dhruv Kapoor.
Fashion
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Men's Fashion Week in Paris
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