In times like these there's no joking around, it should be said at the end of the brief Milanese fashion week dedicated to men's proposals for next winter.
Classic, classic and more classic is the word that bounces from one backstage to another, like a talisman that exorcises fears for a very uncertain future.
Fashion, a mirror of the times as much as any art, because it is applied, is exactly a reaction to today and its difficulties.
And if tomorrow is a question mark, clothes offer security.
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At Giorgio Armani, elegance is serenity and sweetness - Lifestyle
Just the suit, that is to say
the men's suit, is the great protagonist of the men's catwalks
.
Return to the classic,
return to tailoring
, almost a return to order in response to the prevailing chaos.
And so off to
jackets,
which are not the structured ones of the past, but carry the memories of the lockdown, of that home comfort from which there is no going back.
Unlined, without lapels, with snaps instead of buttons (Zegna), in an unprecedented chest and a half,
the new jackets often have the lightness and comfort of a shirt
.
And just as often they are worn only with a T-shirt, perhaps in the same men's fabric, in a perfect match, or even bare-chested, even if it is worth noting the return of the tie after a few seasons in which it was forgotten in the wardrobe .
They are combined with all types of trousers, even with large pockets or a zip on the bottom (Armani) or abbreviated (Prada).
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Prada's sense of fashion, useful clothes for people - Lifestyle
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They can also be coloured, but
the dominant color is black
(see Dolce and Gabbana, an all-tailored and 80% black collection).
Always black for
the coats, another great return
to the classic after years of down jackets.
The new models are floor-
length
, even vampire-like, decidedly scenographic, to be alternated with bomber jackets reduced to a minimum or excessively inflated, almost like protective cocoons.
That we are talking about a sense of protection and the need for serenity, at a time when - in the words of Miuccia Prada - useless creativity makes no sense.
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So far the big luxury brands.
Then the young people and the independent brands, which in this historic moment also see the possibility of making a different discourse, pursuing their naturally inclusive sensibility.
"We are who we are' is the motto of this new generation, not only of designers, who propose a
fluid wardrobe, wearable without distinction by any gender
. A non-binary fashion, which shuns labels and simplifications, without closing itself in a niche but with the precise will to speak to everyone, to allow everyone to have the tools - in this case clothes - to form their own, unique, identity. So
sweaters worn as minidresses
are fine
(JW Anderson), little dresses, short and long skirts (Charles Jeffrey Loverboy).
Here too without forgetting where we find ourselves, between the shoulders projected into the uncertain future seen by Jordanluca, the gloom of Magliano and the cushions embraced by the young men of Jw Anderson, almost the same mandates as an invitation to the Prada fashion show, to close a circle that it doesn't just talk about fashion, but about life, because this - going back to Miuccia's words - is not the time for useless things.
And fashion - Giorgio Armani docet - responds with an invitation to
rediscover the lost serenity
.
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