36 hours in London

To the casual observer, London may come across as a capital married to

, and sometimes perplexed institutions, particularly over the past year, with the rotating cast of various Prime Ministers and the choreographed agenda of mourning after the death of Queen Elizabeth II.

In reality, London is a

.

Through an 1800s wine bar loved by a new generation, a night out in the Caribbean heart of South London, centuries of British art under one roof and riverside walks, this itinerary is here to unlock some of the youthful expansions and diverse natures.

Cherry blossoms at Saint Paul's Cathedral, London.

Photo Shutterstock.

Friday

16.00 Do the Queen's walk

This year, images from

were broadcast around the world as mourners waited in a long, dizzying queue - known in Britain simply as "The Queue" - to view the

.

People gather to show their respect to the queen, in a picture from September 2022. Photo EFE/EPA/NEIL HALL

Take the

, where mourners waited in line for hours.

Take the riverside path that runs from Tower Bridge to the Golden Jubilee Bridges.

The walk is touristy, yes, but it is also pleasant.

Above all, it's an exercise in efficiency: Added to

, highlights of the hour-long walk include HMS Belfast, London Bridge, the Clink Prison Museum, Shakespeare's Globe, the National Theater and the British Film Institute.

17.30 Have an early drink

Cross through Victoria Embankment to find

.

London's oldest wine bar Gordon's.

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Established in 1890, this bar may be lovingly called

, but an early drink here is a freshener for the evening, and this improves your chances of getting in before the crowds.

Take a seat inside the cozy wine cellar, where the lights are dim and the decor is old-fashioned.

You can also take a seat outside at the tables right next to the

: the British love to have a drink in the open air, no matter the season.

A glass of wine is unlikely to cost more than £15 (around $18).

Victoria Embankment Gardens in London.

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20.00 Eat something new

In recent years, London's Chinatown has seen closures of decades-old, much-loved establishments.

The area has a lot to offer visitors, however.

Four Seasons on Gerrad Street is a reliable favorite (be sure to order a helping of boneless roast duck, £16.80), or check out the TPT cafe for honey roast pork (£8).

For something new, the

Speedboat Bar opened this year and has a colorful and energetic atmosphere.

Order the spicy shrimp ceviche (12 pounds) to start;

the tongue and curry (£14) is a worthwhile choice.

23.00 Go to a comedy show

Stroll through the night with some laughs, at the

in Covent Graden.

There are few aesthetic frills at this treasured event, though it hosts some of the country's best comedy and serves drinks at prices rarely seen in the West End (pints start at £3; wine £3.30).

Some nights, the club surprises the audience with a

on their lines, usually a well-known comedian evaluating the material before the ride.

Tickets for the late night show are around £10 per person (tickets usually sell out so book early).

Saturday

10.00 Have a full English experience

The

provokes a force of feeling among the British (its price is often used as the limiting test for the economic health of the nation).

And it has an almost medicinal quality.

Have a busy day ahead?

Recovering from a hangover?

There is no better than this.

Head to E Pellicci, a

in London's East End with a strong sense of community and 'old school' feeling.

It has art deco wainscoting from the 1940s and is listed on the English Heritage List, a charity that manages historic sites.

The "Classical Set" (10.40 pounds) has all the ingredients of a perfect fry- toast, sausage, egg, bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms and peas- while the "Have the Lot" (13, 80 pounds) adds pudding black and potato croquettes (there is also a vegetarian option).

Take advantage of an ATM before you go in - they only accept cash).

12.30 Go on a literature hunt

Bloomsbury is the heart of London literature

- it was once the home of Oscar Wilde and Charles Dickens, whose former home on Doughty Street is open to visitors - and there's no better place in the city to buy books.

Visit Gay's the Word, a small but mighty bookstore founded in 1979 by the Gay Icebreakers, a socialist group.

There are badges for sale and a display of protest pine trees belonging to gay activist Paud Hegerty, a former store manager.

Skoobs second hand bookshop store sign in London.

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Other standouts in the area include second-hand bookstores Skoob Books and Judd Books.

About 15 minutes' walk away is The London Review of Books.

It has a lovely café where you can study with coffee and cake.

15.30 Soak up British art

There are few better places to visualize Britain's grasp on old and new than

(it's one of two Tate museums in London; Tate Moderns refers to the international and contemporary).

Tate Britain in Milbank.

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There is a free annex dating from the Tudor period where you can see art by John Everett Millais and William Hogarth.

The museum is also home to the world's largest collection of works by the painter

the eponymous recipient of Britain's Turner Prize.

Another free highlight is the “Sixty Years: The Unfinished Conversation” show in the spring, featuring works by Black photographers such as Bandele Ajetunmobi and Ajamu, and Caribbean artists such as Donald Locke.

19.00 Eat in Brixton

Three subway stops will take you to a neighborhood that is rarely included in the guidebooks, but that contains the movement of the city: its

.

Brixton is one of the beating hearts of Black London, with a thriving all-round Caribbean community, despite the pressures of gentrification (learn more history at the Black Cultural Archives, open until 6pm on Saturdays).

People eating outside the main entrance of Brixton Village Market, Photo Shutterstock

Reserve a spot at Fish, Wings and Tings, a popular stop for chicken rice and peas and coleslaw (£14), along with a blaring song outside Brixton Village Market.

Or continue straight down the road to

small, unreported Caribbean restaurant on Brixton Hill, where a side dish of fried salty fish with lime mayonnaise and hot sausage is a must-try.

9:00 p.m. Get lost in the rhythm

Brixton's music scene is just as vibrant as its culinary offerings (fun fact:

).

Buskers perform outside the tube station, and songs such as Eddy Grant's “Electric Avenue” and the Clash's “Guns of Brixton” settle the area.

After dinner, head to

, a music venue in a converted Victorian pub, with an impressive beer garden out front.

It hosts DJ sets, and its

calendar runs the cultural gamut, from traditional Balkan music nights to Colombian folklore and reggae.

Sunday

10.00 Buy and enjoy a snack

Brick Lane

has one of the

in London, the best curry houses in the city and lots of street art.

Tourists in Brick Lane.

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Start at

for a snack of sweet jalebj or savory samosas before heading to vintage Brick Lane Market, a basement haven with hundreds of stalls to browse.

Travel can be overwhelming yet productive.

Atika is a vintage department store with an amazing selection of ceramic art prints, jewelry and books.

Around the corner, Jen's Plans and Florist, which owns the Black, sells beautiful

that can be packed in a bag.

In turn, visit the neighboring Spitafielfs market, where you can find eclectic vintage curios that will make perfect gifts for when you return home.

Noon Settle in for a barbecue

The

something like frying, is a national institution.

The Old Queens Head pub in Islington, with its club nights and live music, feels like preserving the youth and their hips during the week, but Sundays mark a change of pace.

Settle in at the top for your choice of roast meats, including chicken and lamb shank, as well as a vegan option of the Chestnut Mushroom Wellington;

everything comes with garnish (13.50 to 15.95 pounds).

For something fancier, try the Quality Chop House in Farringdon for a three-course roast (£39).

If available, order the

for dessert.

This option is for those who pre-plan as Sunday reservations sell out weeks in advance.

14.00 Stroll along the Regent's Canal

Walk after your barbecue along the

, which stretches for almost 13 kilometers.

Tackle a portion starting at Canalside Square, a 7-minute walk from the Old Queens Head pub, and stroll in the direction of Haggerston.

Regent's Canal, London.

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The walk is beautiful and calm, with boats often lining up in the direction of the water.

For a walk of around 30 to 40 minutes, leave the canal via the footbridge in the London Fields neighborhood of East London, which contains 

and an incredible park.

Taste pies from the market and sit in the park for a peaceful closing view and quiet weekend.

key stops

• Tate Britain is a museum on Millbank charting centuries of art created in Britain.

• E Pellicci is a 122-year-old traditional 'café' in East London.

• Gay's the Word, established in 1979, is considered the oldest LGBTQ bookstore in London.

• Brick Lane Vintage Market is an underground bazaar, selling vintage and independent clothing and accessories.

Where to eat

• Gordon's Wine Bar, established in 1890 and thought to be London's oldest wine bar, is adjacent to Victoria Embankment Gardens.

• Café TPT and Four Seasons are beloved restaurants in Chinatown, in the West End, known for their roast meats.

• Speedboat Bar is a new Thai-Chinese fusion restaurant and bar in Chinatown.

• Fish, Wings & Tings, is a South London restaurant serving Caribbean cuisine in the Brixton Village market.

• Negril is a small Caribbean restaurant in Brixton Hill.

• The Old Queens Head is a pub in Islington in North London, serving a hearty Sunday roast.

• The Quality Chop House is a modern British restaurant in Farringdon, Central London, with an impressive Sunday menu.

where to stay

• London's The Standard is sleek and stylish with the perfect location - it's a two minute walk from King's Cross Station and a short train ride into Central London.

  A double room is around 349 pounds (approximately $425 dollars) per night.

• For those seeking incredible views of the River Thames, Sea Containers on the South Bank is an excellent choice.

  A double room starts at £261 per night.

The Zetter Townhouse, a 13-bedroom Georgian townhouse in Clerkenwell, is full of charm and eccentric décor.

Rooms start at £240 per night.

• For those on a budget, rooms at the trendy Mama Shelter in Shoreditch start at around £100 a night, while Assembly in Covent Garden puts you in the center of town without breaking the bank (rooms start £100 and up) Shoreditch in East London may be ridiculously trendy, but it's perfect, a little off the beaten path for short term rentals.

• Marylebone is also a good option for those who want to be closer to the city centre.

The New York Times / Special for Clarín

Translation Patricia Sar

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