Kylie Jenner and a dress with (false) lion's head: it was enough for the Schiaparelli fashion show, organized this Monday January 23 at the Petit Palais, as part of Haute Couture week, to make the buzz on social networks.
The businesswoman's outfit, which is in keeping with the whimsical and surreal spirit of the fashion house, was designed by Daniel Roseberry.
At the head of the Schiaparelli house for four years, the Texan designer has imposed a creative touch that oscillates between sophistication and performance (trompe-l'oeil, spectacular volumes, amusing details - we remember Bella Hadid's lung dress).
Here, the black sheath dress, embellished with a sculpted feline head, was also worn by Irina Shayk on the catwalk.
For her part, Naomi Campbell wore a faux fur trench coat from
where a wolf's head emerged.
The top Shalom Harlow was, for its part, dressed in a strapless dress with the effigy of a panther.
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The birth of these exceptional pieces was unveiled via a video on the brand's Instagram account, explaining the making of animal heads in "hand-sculpted foam, resin, wool and faux silk fur, painted with hand to look as realistic as possible".
With the caption: "No animals were harmed in making this look."
For his part, Daniel Roseberry explained on the social network that these three animal heads, sculpted and embroidered by hand, were intended to celebrate “the glory of nature” and to protect “the woman who wears them”.
This collection, imagined by the artistic director of Schiaparelli and entitled "Inferno", is also inspired by
The Divine Comedy
by Dante Alighieri.
It represents what Daniel Roseberry discovered while rereading the poem: an allegory of doubt, according to the Instagram account stylenotcom.
A badly perceived parade?
Only downside, some Internet users did not immediately grasp the meaning of this parade.
One of them felt that the show was sending the “wrong message”.
“The fashion house is playing on all fronts,” tweeted Muriel Fusi, co-president of the Animalist Party.
Hoping to satisfy animal defenders by using fakes, and exploiters by figuring a hunting trophy, she could well alienate everyone.
An opinion shared by Sophie Maffre-Baugé, president of an anti-corrida association.
"Incitement to the animal object, ornament, accessory, incitement to wear fur, incitement to the violent domination of man over the animal, ode to hunting, trophies, safaris... in short, incitement to exploitation and animal suffering,” she wrote.
The collection signed Daniel Roseberry was unanimously acclaimed when it was presented, and received a standing ovation at the end of the show.
